Steel Target Project *pics*

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  • IndyGunworks

    Grandmaster
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    Feb 22, 2009
    12,832
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    Carthage IN
    DIY Steel Target Project *pics*

    Ok, i have been meaning to post this for a while now and since my plans to shoot today got cancelled by mother nature here goes....
    My goal was to make a SAFE steel shooting gallery, Redneckmedic gave me some steel railroad tie plates and they sat in my shop for a long time and a few weeks ago i finally decided to build it....
    The idea was changed at least three or four times before redneck and i decided on a final game plan....
    Parts
    4 railroad tie plates
    16 feet heavy duty logging chain
    2 fence posts
    1 80#back of quickcrete
    2 2.5 feet sections of 3 inch PVC
    2 5 gallon buckets
    4 screws
    4 Ibolts
    4 washers
    4 nuts
    1 can spray paint
    2 3inch steel pipes
    water

    We started by putting two screws going opposite directions at the bottom of the PVC this is to keep them from slipping out of the concrete once its cured. we mixed the concrete half the 80 pound bag in each and inserted the PVC pipe centered it and left it to cure...

    while it was curing we cut the chain into 8 two foot sections and welded two lengths of chain to the back of the railroad tie plates at an angle that would deflect the bullet downwards.

    chainweld.jpg


    next we welded the two three inch pipes onto the two fence posts which will allow me to slide the cross bar through allowing this to be completely taken down and transported in the back of my pick up truck.

    pipeback.jpg


    pipefront.jpg


    the two uprights slide into the pvc in the concrete weighted buckets and the cross bar slides through the pipe in the uprights... then with the ibolts and hard wear you attach the targets by wrapping the chain around the cross bar and bolting the chain onto itself... an added bonus is you can change the heigth of the targets making it even more challenging to shoot fast. this is how the plates attach to the cross bar

    chainconnecter.jpg


    spray paint the targets the color of your choice and blast away... this is what it looks like assembled.

    downsized_0226091047.jpg


    we ran into one issue... when we first started shooting it one of the welds broke and a target was hanging by only one length of chain... we still shot it and we rewelded it and have not had any problems with it since...

    safety was a huge concern and all PPE was worn as it should be, but i am happy to say that ALL of the bullets were completely destroyed and you could see speckles in the mud below the target from where the bullet fragments were deflected downwards... we experienced NO splashback at all.

    The target did fall over once but i attribute that to the really muddy field we had it set up in... it wasnt level and we used rocks to level out the 5 gallon buckets and over time they sank into the mud allowing it to fall... i would reccomend 60-80 pounds of concrete per bucket instead of the 40 i used.. i may add more if it continutes to be a problem...

    this will handle any hand gun caliber you want to throw at it. I dont think it would stand up to centerfire rifle calibers though given that the steel railroad ties are pretty soft metal and had been rusting for years and years...

    total time investment 1 day maybe 5 hours...
    $$$ investment was 78 dollars... i bought the chain PVC metal pipe hardware and concrete... the 5 gallon buckets railroad tie plates and fence posts were all free but can be purchased for not much cost... this project could easily be built for less than 100 dollars if you can find the railroad tie plates.
     
    Last edited:

    slow1911s

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    Indianapolis
    I would cut the vertical supports in half, at least.

    Also, can you give a closeup shot of the plates themselves? If they are pocked, pitted or have other surface imperfections I would not shoot them. Steel targets need to be smooth.

    Generally, 3/8" AR400 or similar is sufficient for non-magnum centerfire handgun rounds. 3/8" AR500 or similar for non-magnum centerfire rifle rounds at 100+ yds with typical lead bullets. Centerfire rifle on steel inside 100y is flirting with danger unless you use polymer tipped rounds like Hornady TAP.
     

    IndyGunworks

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    Feb 22, 2009
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    Carthage IN
    I would cut the vertical supports in half, at least.

    Also, can you give a closeup shot of the plates themselves? If they are pocked, pitted or have other surface imperfections I would not shoot them. Steel targets need to be smooth.

    Generally, 3/8" AR400 or similar is sufficient for non-magnum centerfire handgun rounds. 3/8" AR500 or similar for non-magnum centerfire rifle rounds at 100+ yds with typical lead bullets. Centerfire rifle on steel inside 100y is flirting with danger unless you use polymer tipped rounds like Hornady TAP.

    they have a few holes in them and some rough spots (texturing) that you can see in the photo's.... however we fired probably 4-500 rounds at this and had ZERO splash back... the targets swung enough that everything was directed downwards.... and i have not plans to, nor have i ever planned on firing rifle ammunition at this thing.
    If i were to have used target grade steel for it i would have negated the purpose of building it to begin with as AR400 is NOT cheap.
     

    Jack Ryan

    Shooter
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    Nov 2, 2008
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    I've got a few of those. They are great to shoot at.

    I just bent a few big "S" hooks out of about 1/8 rod and put it through the holes already in them. Total job, 2 minutes. You can hang them about any where for great portability.

    One thing is the specific mark to shoot at problem for precision sighting something like a scoped 22. To help with that just hit the flat sid of the plate about 6 or 9 well spaced "spots" with a little bumb of weld. I use white paint on mine and then those little bumps make a nice clean target with 9 spots with just a touch of white paint when ya need a new target.
     

    Winchest55

    Plinker
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    Nov 22, 2008
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    ANDERSON
    STEEL TARGETS

    THANKS TO THE IDEA FROM INDYGUNWORKS I BUILT A FEW OF THESE MYSELF. THEY ARE PERFECT,I WILL NEVER HAVE TO BUY TARGETS AGAIN. GRANTED THESE PICS ARE OLDER AND I HAVE SINCE IMPROVED ON THESE TARGETS WITH A SLIGHT ANGLE DOWNWARD. I HAVE SHOT .22 -.357 WITH NO PROBLEMS. THE .357 MAGNUM IS THE ONLY ONE THAT LEFT ANY KIND OF A MARK ON THE PLATES. I USED 2 RAILROAD PLATES,OLD METAL PIPES AND SOME CONSTRUCTION #12 HANGER WIRE. TOTAL COST $0 I AM NOW USING A BRIGHT WHITE SPRAY PAINT ON THE TARGET WHICH COST A $1

    http://i597.photobucket.com/albums/tt53/kosmoo/TARG1.jpg
    http://i597.photobucket.com/albums/tt53/kosmoo/TARG2.jpg
    http://i597.photobucket.com/albums/tt53/kosmoo/TARG3.jpg
     
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    Mini-14

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    Jan 30, 2008
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    New Palestine,In
    Backstop for 9mm? you smoking crack, the rounds decentigrate upon impact, plus shooting slightly down hill, there should be not issues. But lets go with a uphill miss...that appears to be a 500 meter field to treeline...you do the math!:rolleyes:

    Yeah Im smoking crack a$$hole..no where in that post was a 9mm mentioned.
     

    redneckmedic

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    Jan 20, 2009
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    Greenfield
    Yeah Im smoking crack a$..no where in that post was a 9mm mentioned.

    Please Pay attention!!!
    this will handle any hand gun caliber you want to throw at it. I dont think it would stand up to centerfire rifle calibers though given that the steel railroad ties are pretty soft metal and had been rusting for years and years...

    Those are clearly handgun targets....chest high in a swing row.?!?

    But I do appreciate the name calling there buddy! (emotion of blue guy giving the double bird removed for politeness!)
     

    IN_Varmntr

    Marksman
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    Jan 3, 2009
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    DeKalb County
    Nice work guys.

    Here's a few of my steel creations. 1/2" plate steel silhouette and knockdown plates. I've got a few railroad ties and some sections of soem very large trees that I am currently building my backstop with. These are mostly shot with .45ACP, but will most likely see some .223 as well.

    Steel silhouette...
    DSC01253.jpg


    Knockdown plates...
    DSC01250.jpg
     

    IN_Varmntr

    Marksman
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    Jan 3, 2009
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    DeKalb County
    Not 1/2" steel it won't. ;)

    I've yet to hit it with rifle fire, but I've got some scrap pieces lying around that I'll test it with first. We've got another bullet stop setup that's 3/8" steel that stops it effectively without cratering. I don't know the steel hardness, but from working the steel with our plasma cutter and welders, the 1/2" seems much harder than the 3/8".
     
    Last edited:

    slow1911s

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    Apr 3, 2008
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    Indianapolis
    Not an expert but 223 might crater or even protrude your steel.

    Not unless it is set less than 100 yds away and soft. 3/8" AR400 will not pock or crater with 55gr FMJ at 100 yds.

    You can shoot steel with polymer tip rounds (e.g. Hornady TAP) at 10+ yds. That gets spendy in a real hurry, too.

    Guys, shooting steel that is not flat is asking for trouble. Those dimples and welded spots are going to send bullets, splatter, jackets back at the shooter. Maybe not today or tomorrow, but it will happen, it will be unpleasant, and someone will get hurt.

    Proper targets can be had for ~$20/ea made from very hard steel that you're likely never to wear out. Here are some links:

    http://www.handgunsports.com/HGS-Doc/Products$.htm
    Products
     
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