would i want to use these oils even on the front grip, and gas tube cover? is the heat and fouling coming from the gun going to be an issue, also i would think its obvious that youd want to clean and sand the wood before applying oil, right?
I recommend Watco Danish Oil finnish. The wood must be free of all cosmolene, etc. so wash the wood with at least mineral spirits.
If you have the wood parts off then wash them down with acetone, but do it OUTSIDE and don't smoke. It only takes a minute to cut through the cosmolene, etc. with acetone. Acetone also removes paint so don't get it where anything is painted. If you take the wood off of the gas tube, be very careful and don't use anymore acetone or finish than you absolutely must. If you do get any on the wood where it must slide around the gas cover, you will have a he** of a time getting it back on. You will crack the wood in a heart beat if you aren't careful.
If you would rather not use Acetone, then you can use Mineral spirits. It just takes longer.
Watco Oil Finnish comes in colors, so if you want to make your AK look Russian then use one of the reds like Cherry.
Anyway, you just flood the surface of the wood with the Watco's and then let it sit for a minute. Wipe off excess. Wait a few minutes and repeat this process. After you wipe off the second coat you are DONE.
Let it dry overnight before re-assembly to let it set up.
It is great stuff. I have done about 5 stocks this way and you get a beautiful soft oiled looking finish that is neither oiley or soft.
louielouie
I remember I wore a pair of latex gloves when taking the wood off of the gas tube. It gave me more gripping and less slipping on the wood.
I used Birchwood Casey's Tru-Oil on mine. Just follow directions on the package. To be honest, I never bothered to sand the wood, and it still came out looking 100% better than the crap wood that normally comes on a WASR10. And I have never had a problem with the heat damaging the finish on the wood around the gas tube or lower front handguard.