Winchester Model 24 Double barrel

[Mongo59]

This is Winchester's shot at an economy double. No frills point and shoot food getter only. The only 'options' you had were gauge and barrel length. All gauges came in two barrel lengths, the longer had Full/Mod and the shorter had Mod/IC. No grades or 'add ons' were offered.



This is a 16ga that I haven't replaced the butt plate on as of yet...

 

[BigRed]

This is Winchester's shot at an economy double. No frills point and shoot food getter only. The only 'options' you had were gauge and barrel length. All gauges came in two barrel lengths, the longer had Full/Mod and the shorter had Mod/IC. No grades or 'add ons' were offered.

View attachment 158954

This is a 16ga that I haven't replaced the butt plate on as of yet...

I am keeping am eye out for one of those in 12 mod/ic.

 

[tenring]

Bought one a few years ago, 12 ga. with F&M barrel chockes #1853 made in 1939 according to Old Guns.Net. It had been a truck gun for many years according to the owner. Lite rust all over and in the barrels, action was rusted also, pistol grip had been heavenly stained with body grease, forearm was similar. Butt stock also had deep "dings" and scrapes. Spent one whole winter working on curing all those "used" items. Re-blued the the barrels and action myself after hours of careful work, wood looks like new, late friend of mine was able to smooth out a deep dent on one side of barrel, action slicked up to make the barrels open fully when loading or removing spent rounds. Had a rubber recoil pad on it that had dried out and ready to collaspe , bought some "goop" for that. Soaked the pad for several weeks to bring the pad back to life. With all the help I got from the Internet, it comes close to looking like a new shotgun. Busted a bunch of clay targets including some doubles once I got used to it. Wouldn't take a hand full of Benjamin's for it now.

 

[senork]

Mine was manufactured in 1947 or 1948 according to the serial number. When I received it, the rubber pad was dried out and brittle, so I replaced it with a Winchester plastic butt pad. I recently read that the Model 24 is striker fired.

 

[Mongo59]

Mine was manufactured in 1947 or 1948 according to the serial number. When I received it, the rubber pad was dried out and brittle, so I replaced it with a Winchester plastic butt pad. I recently read that the Model 24 is striker fired.

Yep, not a hammer in the thing. It isn't like any other mechanism I have run across in the old guns. For one thing, if the breakdown lever goes past middle it doesn't mean 'it is wore out', it is articulated on the cocking levers and is not attached to the lock.

 

[Mongo59]

Bought one a few years ago, 12 ga. with F&M barrel chockes #1853 made in 1939 according to Old Guns.Net. It had been a truck gun for many years according to the owner. Lite rust all over and in the barrels, action was rusted also, pistol grip had been heavenly stained with body grease, forearm was similar. Butt stock also had deep "dings" and scrapes. Spent one whole winter working on curing all those "used" items. Re-blued the the barrels and action myself after hours of careful work, wood looks like new, late friend of mine was able to smooth out a deep dent on one side of barrel, action slicked up to make the barrels open fully when loading or removing spent rounds. Had a rubber recoil pad on it that had dried out and ready to collaspe , bought some "goop" for that. Soaked the pad for several weeks to bring the pad back to life. With all the help I got from the Internet, it comes close to looking like a new shotgun. Busted a bunch of clay targets including some doubles once I got used to it. Wouldn't take a hand full of Benjamin's for it now.

OK, tell me about this 'goop' for the pad, that is a new one on me.

 

[tenring]

OK, tell me about this 'goop' for the pad, that is a new one on me.

It was WD 40, or Armor All to the best of my memory. Soak it good, leave it for 24 hrs, wipe it down good and then do it one more time.

 

[Mongo59]

It was WD 40, or Armor All to the best of my memory. Soak it good, leave it for 24 hrs, wipe it down good and then do it one more time.

My brother will be excited that I found a use for WD40...

 

[tenring]

Forgot a trick I learned about a long time ago to help the process along. Put pad in one of those large plastic bags [zipper kind] that are used to store foods in a freezer and drown the pad. Place bag on top of refrigerator at the very back, to allow the warm air coming off the coils to keep the pad and liquid warm, 24 hr. at least. Helps the process work better, and keeps the mess down to a dull roar. YMMF.

 

[Mongo59]

Thanks!