Wheel lock vs. Match lock muzzle loader for hunting

[Remington 90T]

Looking to move down from my cap and ball muzzle loader to either a wheel lock or match lock for deer hunting --have hunted for 50 year with cap and ball. Am looking for any input of anyone that has used one or other for hunting?

 

[Max Volume]

Percussion caps getting hard to find? Dang, you are really going hardcore and got me wondering where to even find one so I looked it up. Found some kits online. I always used my T/C Hawken .50 but have a couple of flintlocks I'd like to try hunting with.

The Rifle Shoppe, Inc. - Matchlocks

add your description here

www.therifleshoppe.com

 

[Ortgies]

Looking to move down from my cap and ball muzzle loader to either a wheel lock or match lock for deer hunting --have hunted for 50 year with cap and ball. Am looking for any input of anyone that has used one or other for hunting?

As I remember, looking at Grand Dad's collection (he had an original "lock" for a wheellock). Quite a complex item, but fairly reliable for it's time. As I understand, a chain is wound against a spring, locked, then "fired" by the trigger, rotating a friction wheel against a flint, showering the pan with sparks. Well maintained, I suspect that it would be reliable. The match lock, not so much. Either would be fun, and quite a conversation starter, but I suspect the wheellock would be more satisfactory. Good luck with it!

 

[Magyars]

This is the best forum I'm aware of in regards to BP.
They have a sub forum on your inquiry.

The Muzzleloading Forum

Muzzleloading Forum discussion community & muzzleloading/reenactors for sale classifieds. Muzzle loading forums for reenactors, mountain men, French & Indian War, Civil War reenactors.

www.muzzleloadingforum.com

 

[Remington 90T]

I have seen match locks in competition -- My question would be keeping the wick glowing for a full hunt - Secondly would be the smell -- Wheel lock would be a bit slower than a flinter, but much less work. Either case I think a good shooting stick would be in order.

 

[Remington 90T]

s I remember, looking at Grand Dad's collection (he had an original "lock" for a wheellock). Quite a complex item, but fairly reliable for it's time. As I understand, a chain is wound against a spring, locked, then "fired" by the trigger, rotating a friction wheel against a flint, showering the pan with sparks. Well maintained, I suspect that it would be reliable. The match lock, not so much. Either would be fun, and quite a conversation starter, but I suspect

wheel lock is nothing more than a big Bic lighter that ignites powder not gas -- More moving parts than a flintlock muzzle loader.

 

[Beowulf]

I have seen match locks in competition -- My question would be keeping the wick glowing for a full hunt - Secondly would be the smell -- Wheel lock would be a bit slower than a flinter, but much less work. Either case I think a good shooting stick would be in order.

This is the exact issue with matchlocks for hunting.

My match cord will burn through a good length (a few feet) in a single shooting session and it takes lots of care (constantly ashing and blowing on it) to keep it going between shots.

If you are looking for hunting on hard mode, then I guess a match lock is for you.

As to wheel locks, they are going to be really expensive custom made guns, but if you are willing to take something that costs several thousand dollars into the field, then no reason you couldn't use one. Its what they were commonly used for by the wealthy and the nobility when they were in common use (outside of their use on the battlefield).

 

[Remington 90T]

thank you for your input. that was what I thought --Fuse time? --Too old to shoot deer with my long bow --would be a great accomplishment for me, as a black powder shooter to get a deer with a match lock -- I think it might work for first light stand and late evening then switch guns, Never shot a wheel lock, might be fun also. The only one that would complain about the cost would be the grandkid when I am gone.

 

[Noble Sniper]

I’ve eyeballed matchlocks for years….. another one of those things I’ve never made the leap on

 

[G192127]

A guy from FL. Made a Wheelock pistol and brought it to F-ship a few years ago. It had ZERO lock jump and was a great shooter. You literally could not feel anything when the pistol was dryfired.
Matchsticks are shot at F-ship but only of an evening with no-one else on the line....pretty cool if you're into glowing cords and black powder.

 

[Noble Sniper]

I could see where they could be very dangerous in careless hands….. better make sure all your ducks are in a row or BOOM!!!

 

[Remington 90T]

pretty cool if you're into glowing cords and black powder.

Pretty cool to shoot a deer with a glowing cord and black powder also. I would lay money not one of those F-ship match lock shooters have got a deer -- Thier was a time that was the go-to weapon.

 

[Beowulf]

Just because I forgot to mention it and in case someone else had a similar question, the other issue with matchlocks is the way the pan is protected.

Unlike most flintlocks, the pan isn't spring loaded on a matchlock. It's typically just a cover that swivels out of the way when you are ready to shoot. So, that adds another element of effort.

When I shoot mine, the loading and firing procedure goes like this:

1. Remove lit match and set it away from where I am loading (soldiers used to hold the match in their off hand that was supporting the musket or even have special holders on their helmets, since this dates back to when soldiers were still wearing steel helmets and armor).
2. Charge musket (if you want to be authentic, you can use the old "apostles" bandoleers, with pre-measured power charges in wooden bottles hanging off a bandoleer)
3. Load ball (either loose with a wad on top, or patched if you want more accuracy)
4. Bring musket up and open pan cover
5. Load pan with priming powder
6. Close pan
7. Ash match and blow on it to get it glowing
8. Attach match to the cock
9. Keeping the pan closed, pull trigger/lever to bring match down, to make sure it is hitting in the right spot on the pan, then release trigger/lever to move match back
10. Open pan
11. Aim
12. Fire

Then rinse and repeat.

Definitely not something I would want to do when hunting.

That being said, I will say despite the lack of sights on my musket, it's a pretty smooth shooting gun, since the trigger is a spring resisted lever, not a sear trip, so pulling the trigger back slowly until the match hits the priming powder can be done very smoothly without any risk of jerking.

Since I had my matchlock relined (I didn't like how thin the barrel was in the original .75 caliber) down to .62 caliber, I had the option of getting it rifled. I chose not to, since there were no sights. I would bet though, if you put in the effort to set up a proper front and rear sight on it, a rifled matchlock could be made pretty darn accurate.

 

[Remington 90T]

Great information -It would have to be built with a rifle barrel - and sights -I would load pre-dawn on my stand and nurse the wick for an hour and change guns. just amazes me using them in Battle. Had a chance to hold a Japanese snap match muzzle loader, not a clue how you would mount and shoot that thing?

 

[Beowulf]

Great information -It would have to be built with a rifle barrel - and sights -I would load pre-dawn on my stand and nurse the wick for an hour and change guns. just amazes me using them in Battle. Had a chance to hold a Japanese snap match muzzle loader, not a clue how you would mount and shoot that thing?

I believe they tended to be more used in static type formations. They had no stocks, with just hand grips and very long barrels, so kind of awkward to use.

In Europe, early musketeers were mixed with pikeman, with pikeman providing the cover from cavalry (or for the Spanish, the tercio which had musketeers, pikemen, and swordsmen). Eventually, as muskets improved and bayonets were invented, the pikeman were just replaced with more musketeers.

 

[Beowulf]

The Rifle Shoppe has some really high quality kits, so if you want a really nice one and are willing to finish it yourself (or pay someone to do it), that would be a good place to start:

The Rifle Shoppe, Inc. - Matchlocks

add your description here

www.therifleshoppe.com

I don't know if they offer any of the barrels rifled, but I imagine you can ask them.

The other way to go is what I did, and buy an Indian made matchlock and then have the barrel relined. I went with Military Heritage, which I don't recommend (quality wasn't great). But if you go with either of these two, you should be doing well:

Loyalist Arms & Repairs

Loyalist Arms and Repairs

loyalistarms.ca

Veteran Arms From Muzzleloading Era

Affordable reproduction firearms and accessories from the muzzleloading period, including muskets, pistols and more.

veteranarms.com

Then I used Bob Hoyt to reline the barrel. I did mine smoothbore, but he offered to rifle it and he might be able to help with the sights.

Freischutz Shop
2379 Mt. Hope Road., Fairfield, Pa. 17320
717-642-6696​

 

[Remington 90T]

Great information -Great sites --Will post a picture of my matchlock buck .When I get one.

 

[roscott]

I vote black powder cannon and a cigar after you finish killing deer with your matchlock!