To Neck Size or not to Neck Size?

[AndreusMaximus]

So I'm fairly new to reloading, and right now am mostly working on developing a load for my 6.5 Creedmoor RPR. My brother-in-law who got me into reloading advised me that for best accuracy, I should shoot factory ammo, save the casings, and then neck-size only, the idea being that the brass would be fire-formed to the chamber of my specific gun, which means in would sit more consistently in the chamber and thus increase accuracy. But since then I've also heard things where people are saying that neck sizing isn't worth it, or that in can even be less accurate than full-length sizing.

Does anyone have any advice in this regard? I plan on testing out the same load with some neck-sized only cases and then the same load in full-length sized cases, and see which one performs better, but I'm curious what you all's experience has been.

 

[Michigan Slim]

I can't just neck size most of my calibers because of multiple guns in those calibers. That said however, I will get neck sizing .243 just for my new Ruger No 1. I was given a couple hundred Hornady cases so those will be mine only. I don't want to work the brass a ton by full length sizing every time and the loads will be just for that gun.

 

[BE Mike]

I don't know if there is any difference in accuracy between the two and my high power rifle shooting is very limited. One thing I learned, while I was engaged in shooting competitions was to listen to the champions. If I were in your situation, I'd consider this: http://www.davidtubb.com/6xc-sizing-die

 

[AndreusMaximus]

I can't just neck size most of my calibers because of multiple guns in those calibers. That said however, I will get neck sizing .243 just for my new Ruger No 1. I was given a couple hundred Hornady cases so those will be mine only. I don't want to work the brass a ton by full length sizing every time and the loads will be just for that gun.

Fortunately I only have one rifle chambered in 6.5 Creedmoor, and that's the only one I want to neck size anyways, so it makes things easy. I'll probably be sticking mostly to neck sizing for now, and full length size every few loads. Even if it's not for accuracy, it does have the advantage of working your brass less, like you say.

 

[AndreusMaximus]

I don't know if there is any difference in accuracy between the two and my high power rifle shooting is very limited. One thing I learned, while I was engaged in shooting competitions was to listen to the champions. If I were in your situation, I'd consider this: http://www.davidtubb.com/6xc-sizing-die

Thanks for the suggestion! I guess I probably need to get my feet wet a little more, and try out going to a few competitions where I can talk with and learn from more experienced shooters. I'm definitely not up to the skill level yet where I can utilize the full potential of ammo made with a custom die like that, so I should probably also just hit the range more and get in more practice instead of worrying over details like whether to neck size or full length size yet.

 

[Michigan Slim]

I think you are asking a good question. If you run across some other brass you will want to fill length size. Your brass just needs neck sized. I would also trim to all the same length.

 

[AndreusMaximus]

I think you are asking a good question. If you run across some other brass you will want to fill length size. Your brass just needs neck sized. I would also trim to all the same length.

Thanks! That's what I'd figured made sense, so I'll keep on according to plan.

 

[Mgderf]

No-one asked, and you didn't say.
What platform is the rifle?
Bolt action or semi-auto?

 

[kennedy759]

I neck size 308 and 6.5 swede with brass fired from from each gun, both bolt action, and full length size on any other brass.

 

[AndreusMaximus]

No-one asked, and you didn't say.
What platform is the rifle?
Bolt action or semi-auto?

Oh yeah, lol, I should have mentioned that; makes a big difference. It's a bolt-action.

I've never tried running neck-sized only in anything semi-auto, as I was told it was a bad idea, and it clearly seemed to be to me.

 

[Bill2905]

So I'm fairly new to reloading, and right now am mostly working on developing a load for my 6.5 Creedmoor RPR. My brother-in-law who got me into reloading advised me that for best accuracy, I should shoot factory ammo, save the casings, and then neck-size only, the idea being that the brass would be fire-formed to the chamber of my specific gun, which means in would sit more consistently in the chamber and thus increase accuracy. But since then I've also heard things where people are saying that neck sizing isn't worth it, or that in can even be less accurate than full-length sizing.

Does anyone have any advice in this regard? I plan on testing out the same load with some neck-sized only cases and then the same load in full-length sized cases, and see which one performs better, but I'm curious what you all's experience has been.

I think that whether you neck size or full length size, what is equally important is that you develop consistent reloading practices and routines that minimize as much variation as possible in your finished rounds.

 

[2in1evtime]

I use dies with bushings for neck sizing myself, they are expensive though, you will still need to full length size after a few firings too, then there is neck runout to consider also. There is so much you can do with brass to help with accuracy and it can get pretty detailed, good luck with your endeavor.

 

[Onebad06vtx]

It depends on several things.
How good and consistent is the neck thickness of your brass?
What is the diameter of your chamber neck size?
Consistent neck size insures that neck tension is the same.
But you want the brass neck to fit the chamber with .001 clearance.
Alot of people just jam the bullets into the lands to help center the cartridge,but that builds pressure so start with less powder.
One thing I found that really helps is bullet seating depth.
All guns are different but there is always a sweet spot.
Load up 3 for each depth and shoot groups.
Start at just touching the lands and back off .005 at a time.

 

[Squid556]

No-one asked, and you didn't say.
What platform is the rifle?
Bolt action or semi-auto?

He said its an RPR.
I assume that means its a Ruger Precision Rifle bolt action

 

[mark40sw]

If you want accuracy and case longevity, setting up sizing die is important. Most people will just set them up to lightly touch the shell holder or backed off a fraction turn. This will needlessly oversize and overwork the brass neck/shoulder. Oversizing also leads to case stretching each firing causing thinning of the case wall towards the base.

You can properly set it to your rifle by setting the sizing die down in steps while checking to see if the brass will close in the rifle chamber, then adjust a touch more for clearance. There are some good youtube videos on this method.

OR, you could invest in gauges to measure your rifle's headspace and adjust sizing die to measurements. I use LE Wilson Case Gage Depth Micrometer/Case Gauges, or the Forster Datum Dial.

With knowing the dimensions for the shoulder/headspace needed on my loads, I can set the sizing die depth. But on most of my loading, I have Redding Competition Shellholder Sets that will set the sizing depth with shellholders of varying deck heights for each shellholder size.

Case annealing will also help. Depends on how much time & effort you want to put into it.

 

[AndreusMaximus]

If you want accuracy and case longevity, setting up sizing die is important. Most people will just set them up to lightly touch the shell holder or backed off a fraction turn. This will needlessly oversize and overwork the brass neck/shoulder. Oversizing also leads to case stretching each firing causing thinning of the case wall towards the base.

You can properly set it to your rifle by setting the sizing die down in steps while checking to see if the brass will close in the rifle chamber, then adjust a touch more for clearance. There are some good youtube videos on this method.

OR, you could invest in gauges to measure your rifle's headspace and adjust sizing die to measurements. I use LE Wilson Case Gage Depth Micrometer/Case Gauges, or the Forster Datum Dial.

With knowing the dimensions for the shoulder/headspace needed on my loads, I can set the sizing die depth. But on most of my loading, I have Redding Competition Shellholder Sets that will set the sizing depth with shellholders of varying deck heights for each shellholder size.

Case annealing will also help. Depends on how much time & effort you want to put into it.

Thanks for the tips! I'd never even considered or heard about doing this, and just always followed the default instructions of screw down to the shell holder then adjust a quarter turn. Now I feel dumb for never even thinking that this step could be done more precisely...

Anyways, thanks again, I'll definitely be investing more time into the process you described.

 

[patience0830]

Think we need to "neck size" a bunch of politicians.

 

[mark40sw]

Thanks for the tips! I'd never even considered or heard about doing this, and just always followed the default instructions of screw down to the shell holder then adjust a quarter turn. Now I feel dumb for never even thinking that this step could be done more precisely...

Anyways, thanks again, I'll definitely be investing more time into the process you described.

couple of vids setting up sizing dies

 

[Onebad06vtx]

Think we need to "neck size" a bunch of politicians.

More like deprime them and send to the scrap yard!

 

[SSE]

All good advice above, I will just add you can get the Lee collet neck size die for cheap and they work really well.