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TangoFoxtrot
Expert
Squib is stuck in the barrel, usually to light of charge. Best removal , to avoid damage to the barrel (of course employ ALL safety protocol) use a maple or other softer wooden rod to drive out the stuck round, inspect for any damage, clean if needed.
In a rare case, I have seen a squib caused by a extreme tight spot in the barrel but that's been 1 time in my life I've seen that.
Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
I have had and seen many squibs thru the years. Most of the time an auto will not cycle the slide, so there is less danger of firing another round after the squib. Although it can happen. A revolver will allow shooting a 2nd round most of the time. The key is: if a shot sounds or feels different or wrong, STOP SHOOTING and check out you gun.
I have had some bulky powders get hung up and not meter well. This produced the squibs I experienced. I fixed that by using an RCBS Lockout die.
I have had some bulky powders get hung up and not meter well. This produced the squibs I experienced. I fixed that by using an RCBS Lockout die.
While shooting a steel match in Brookston a couple years ago, I experienced something I'd heard about years ago, but had never seen. I mentioned the concept to some friends while trying to figure out how one of them bulged a 1911 barrel when the bullet clearly hit the target. It could not have been a squib, everyone thought.
While shooting, I heard a lighter than normal report from my gun. It seemed like the bullet struck the backstop, but something seemed weird. I stopped shooting, opened my cylinder and examined my gun. I found the bullet jacket, without the lead core, sticking out of the muzzle about 1/8 of an inch. There must have been a lighter than normal powder charge and the jacket stuck in the bore before exiting (see attached photos). The lead core, however, kept traveling out of the jacket and bore and continued on to strike the backstop. It is very weird and rare, but I maintain that may have happened to my friend's 1911.
Since that episode, four shooting buddies had similar experiences. It just got less rare. The problem stems from low velocity jacketed bullets sticking in the barrel and the lead core continuing out the muzzle due to inertia. Some of these instances may be due to too little powder being dropped by an inconsistency in the powder measure. Some could have been the result of borderline reduced loads: jacketed bullets that were OK most of the time, but the occasional round was too low a velocity for the jacket material to overcome friction. This is why it is best to load reduced velocity rounds with lead bullets, not jacketed. The lead has less friction in the bore and is less likely to get stuck. Lead bullets can get stuck, but they will not hit the target and fool you into thinking the projectile completely exited the bore.
Lesson #1: If a shot does not sound or feel right, even slightly, stop and check out your gun. The worst that can happen is you loose time on that one round in a match. If you do not check out something like that, it could ruin your barrel or worse yet cause injury.
Lesson #2: For reduced velocity loads, lead bullets (or coated lead) are preferred over jacketed. The best combos for light target loads are lead or coated lead bullets and a fast burning powder (e.g. Bullseye, Clays, Red Dot, VV N310, WST, etc.). Slower powders are not a good choice for light target loads. Some slow powders do not recommend a reduction from even their max load data. Slower powders are best choices for maximizing velocities of a cartridge. Just some food for thought.
While shooting, I heard a lighter than normal report from my gun. It seemed like the bullet struck the backstop, but something seemed weird. I stopped shooting, opened my cylinder and examined my gun. I found the bullet jacket, without the lead core, sticking out of the muzzle about 1/8 of an inch. There must have been a lighter than normal powder charge and the jacket stuck in the bore before exiting (see attached photos). The lead core, however, kept traveling out of the jacket and bore and continued on to strike the backstop. It is very weird and rare, but I maintain that may have happened to my friend's 1911.
Since that episode, four shooting buddies had similar experiences. It just got less rare. The problem stems from low velocity jacketed bullets sticking in the barrel and the lead core continuing out the muzzle due to inertia. Some of these instances may be due to too little powder being dropped by an inconsistency in the powder measure. Some could have been the result of borderline reduced loads: jacketed bullets that were OK most of the time, but the occasional round was too low a velocity for the jacket material to overcome friction. This is why it is best to load reduced velocity rounds with lead bullets, not jacketed. The lead has less friction in the bore and is less likely to get stuck. Lead bullets can get stuck, but they will not hit the target and fool you into thinking the projectile completely exited the bore.
Lesson #1: If a shot does not sound or feel right, even slightly, stop and check out your gun. The worst that can happen is you loose time on that one round in a match. If you do not check out something like that, it could ruin your barrel or worse yet cause injury.
Lesson #2: For reduced velocity loads, lead bullets (or coated lead) are preferred over jacketed. The best combos for light target loads are lead or coated lead bullets and a fast burning powder (e.g. Bullseye, Clays, Red Dot, VV N310, WST, etc.). Slower powders are not a good choice for light target loads. Some slow powders do not recommend a reduction from even their max load data. Slower powders are best choices for maximizing velocities of a cartridge. Just some food for thought.
I have had one in my short lifespan. Came from a .45 that I reloaded, that to my knowledge must not have had any powder at all. I like to consider myself cautious but mistakes happen. Luckily, like mentioned above, the next round did not chamber.
Had no idea that was possible. This has been a very informative thread.
I've had one from a Federal match 148gr wadcutter. I think they didn't get enough powder in it. I reported it they had me send the rest of the box to them got 2 new boxes for free on them. What I did to get it out was load a blank rd so to speak. I loaded up a 38 special rd then put cardboard wad in end and fired it. The wadcutter came right out.
I had one, 45 ACP in a 1911 I had many moons ago. Was at the NRA range in Fairfax Va.
Didn't notice the lack of sound or recoil and sent another down the spout.
Destroyed the barrel, but that's all the damage I had.
Still have the burst barrel...to remind me.... you can see a slight bulge and the split
Didn't notice the lack of sound or recoil and sent another down the spout.
Destroyed the barrel, but that's all the damage I had.
Still have the burst barrel...to remind me.... you can see a slight bulge and the split
Attachments
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johntheplinker
Master
Might have worked fine with the wadcutter but not a good idea. The stuck bullet is a barrel obstruction and we all know what can happen.
The only other one I had was a in a Mosin Nagant M44. Old Russian mil surplus ammo. I bought a 1/4" threaded rod wrapped electrical tape around it and drove out the bullet. That also worked great. I did put a nut on the end so I had a larger surface area to hit.
On the 38 special squib. I doubt anything major would happen since the barrel is made to take that much pressure and much more. The pressure would not be any more than a normally fired round. Maybe less because the bullet isn't setting on top of the powder when ignited.
johntheplinker
Master
I understand that. Somebody else without a lot of experience may see that and assume it is a easy way to clear all squibs. Best to stick to methods that are known to be safe, especially in public when dealing with people who may not know any better.
TangoFoxtrot
Expert
Holy poop.. thats definitely a reminder lol.. you could always cut it down and make a shorty
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Both of my squibs were factory loads. I've never had one from reloading.
johntheplinker
Master
Only one I've ever had was also factory. A 12 ga. buckshot load.
This is a tool designed for the job...
www.midwayusa.com
Always keep one of these and a brass hammer in the range bag. I've drug them out a lot, happily only a couple times for myself.
Arredondo Squib Rod Multi-Tool Nylon Black
The Arredondo Squib Rod Multi-Tool is a multi-function tool features a magazine take-down tool, scope adjustment tool, scope battery cap remover and...
www.midwayusa.com
Always keep one of these and a brass hammer in the range bag. I've drug them out a lot, happily only a couple times for myself.
Not a squib, but
Not a squib, but saw this today. Removed the bullet from a .40 Golden Sabre 180gr JHP round this morning with an impact puller because it had a buggered up primer, and by the time the bullet dropped, the lead center had extended more than halfway out of the copper jacket. Made for a rather long-looking bullet, needless to say. Also explains why it took more whacks than usual since some of the energy was going into separating the jacket from the lead core instead of moving the bullet as a whole. Supports the fact that it can occur with a squib.
