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Single Stack gun
- Thread starter HICKMAN
- Start date
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jakemartens
Master
I wouldn't say that there is a standard model, but more like standard features like
beavertail
adjustable sights
ambi safeties
Magwell
trigger job
checkered front strap
If I were going to go and buy a 1911 for Single Stack I would get one of these
CZ-USA -> DAN WESSON Pointman Seven
The Pointman Seven is a 5” series 70 style 1911 featuring a stainless steel frame and forged stainless steel slide. Like all Dan Wesson 1911s, Pointman models incorporate top quality parts from the best names in the industry
· Forged, one piece match grade barrel and bushing.
· Round top slide with Bo-Mar style adjustable target sight
· Hand polished flat surfaces with contrasting bead blasted rounds
· Flat, all steel 20-LPI checkered mainspring housing
· Front and rear cocking serrations
· Beveled magwell
· All sharp edges dehorned by hand
· Lowered and flared ejection port
· Hand polished feed ramp
· Ed Brown slide stop
· Ed Brown memory groove grip safety
· Tactical extended thumb safety
· One piece full length stainless guide rod
· Commander style match hammer
· Match grade sear
· Aluminum trigger with stainless bow
· Extended serrated magazine catch
· Wolff springs used exclusively
· Diamond checkered coco-bolo grips
· Tuned, machined, internal extractor
· Test fired for reliability
· 38 ounces unloaded
I would add an Smith and Alexander Magwell and get some skateboard tape for the front strap.
You can find these on gunbroker and gunsamerica usually under $1100.
beavertail
adjustable sights
ambi safeties
Magwell
trigger job
checkered front strap
If I were going to go and buy a 1911 for Single Stack I would get one of these
CZ-USA -> DAN WESSON Pointman Seven
The Pointman Seven is a 5” series 70 style 1911 featuring a stainless steel frame and forged stainless steel slide. Like all Dan Wesson 1911s, Pointman models incorporate top quality parts from the best names in the industry
· Forged, one piece match grade barrel and bushing.
· Round top slide with Bo-Mar style adjustable target sight
· Hand polished flat surfaces with contrasting bead blasted rounds
· Flat, all steel 20-LPI checkered mainspring housing
· Front and rear cocking serrations
· Beveled magwell
· All sharp edges dehorned by hand
· Lowered and flared ejection port
· Hand polished feed ramp
· Ed Brown slide stop
· Ed Brown memory groove grip safety
· Tactical extended thumb safety
· One piece full length stainless guide rod
· Commander style match hammer
· Match grade sear
· Aluminum trigger with stainless bow
· Extended serrated magazine catch
· Wolff springs used exclusively
· Diamond checkered coco-bolo grips
· Tuned, machined, internal extractor
· Test fired for reliability
· 38 ounces unloaded
I would add an Smith and Alexander Magwell and get some skateboard tape for the front strap.
You can find these on gunbroker and gunsamerica usually under $1100.
Try and buy a used one on the USPSA classifieds. You need one with a pedigree or you need to be very close to your gunsmith. I had one and sold it.
40 S&W is a sunfa to get working 100% in the 1911. The primary reason is that 1911s, generally, like ammo loaded to a length similar to 45 ACP. Don't misunderstand - it can be done and they are sweet if they run. They can also be a big headache.
I'd look first for something like an STI Trojan or a SA Trophy Match. You're looking at $900-$1000 for either, probably. You might also find a custom build that somebody did off of a Caspian frame.
40 S&W is a sunfa to get working 100% in the 1911. The primary reason is that 1911s, generally, like ammo loaded to a length similar to 45 ACP. Don't misunderstand - it can be done and they are sweet if they run. They can also be a big headache.
I'd look first for something like an STI Trojan or a SA Trophy Match. You're looking at $900-$1000 for either, probably. You might also find a custom build that somebody did off of a Caspian frame.
First.... why .40?
Very easy to pick up a SA or STI in .45 and go play. A .45 w/ good mags is much more likely to run 100%. And you loose nothing to the .40 (not like LIM where you can shove more rounds in, you're limited to 8+1 regardless).
-rvb
Very easy to pick up a SA or STI in .45 and go play. A .45 w/ good mags is much more likely to run 100%. And you loose nothing to the .40 (not like LIM where you can shove more rounds in, you're limited to 8+1 regardless).
-rvb
jakemartens
Master
Even if you stick shooting production, everyone still needs a good 1911.
Get this if you want a 40s&w
CZ-USA -> DAN WESSON SS Custom
Get this if you want a 40s&w
CZ-USA -> DAN WESSON SS Custom
As the others have noted, especially if it's your first 1911, get a .45ACP for a variety of reasons.
If you want an inexpensive 1911 that is likely to be 100% functional to try single stack, I think a Rock Island Armory or any of the brands made in the Philippines (most by Armscor, regardless of the name on the slide) is a good choice. Get one of those, about 10 good 8-round magazines, some mag pouches, and a good holster and you're good to go.
Unless you have a compelling reason to shoot .40, it's not a great idea. As slow1911s mentioned, .40 is probably the most troublesome of all calibers to get a 1911 to function properly. Furthermore, there is very little if any advantage to it in the single stack division in USPSA. If you declare (and meet) major power factor, you can only load 8 rounds in your magazines anyway. If you shoot minor, you can load 9 (assuming you have magazines for it), but then you could just get a 9mm and have 10 rounds in your mags.
The only benefit to a .40 1911 I see is if you have one or more Limited race guns in .40, have a pet load for them, and then you build or modify a single stack gun to shoot the same ammo. Expect headaches doing that unless you get lucky.
If you want an inexpensive 1911 that is likely to be 100% functional to try single stack, I think a Rock Island Armory or any of the brands made in the Philippines (most by Armscor, regardless of the name on the slide) is a good choice. Get one of those, about 10 good 8-round magazines, some mag pouches, and a good holster and you're good to go.
Unless you have a compelling reason to shoot .40, it's not a great idea. As slow1911s mentioned, .40 is probably the most troublesome of all calibers to get a 1911 to function properly. Furthermore, there is very little if any advantage to it in the single stack division in USPSA. If you declare (and meet) major power factor, you can only load 8 rounds in your magazines anyway. If you shoot minor, you can load 9 (assuming you have magazines for it), but then you could just get a 9mm and have 10 rounds in your mags.
The only benefit to a .40 1911 I see is if you have one or more Limited race guns in .40, have a pet load for them, and then you build or modify a single stack gun to shoot the same ammo. Expect headaches doing that unless you get lucky.
The reason why .40 is popular in limited is because it's the caliber that allows the most rounds while still making major power factor.
So why aren't you still interested in single stack just because .40 might not be the best choice? You could still have a lot of fun!
If you want something to get started in single stack, look at the STI Spartan. I recently got one for under $700 including shipping and transfer. It's run 100%. I've shot a couple matches with it. It's also my carry gun. All I did was add some grip tape to the front strap and removed the guide rod and put in a GI setup.
-rvb
-rvb
I don't reload and 45 is hard to find :-)
If I have any regrets about decisions I've made in my shooting career, it's that I put off loading my own. I bought factory for probably the first 4 years I competed. Instead of thinking of buying a gun for a new division, buy a Dillon. In short order you will have saved enough on ammo to also buy that new blaster. If you have any intention of continuing to compete, or just shoot a bunch, buy a press before anything else. I hate to think of all the bucks I wasted shooting factory for those years. I started only loading 9mm. At the time I was shooting around 15k per year. My press and related equipment paid for itself in the first year in savings, with just 9mm!
my 2c.
-rvb
I agree with Ryan, the Spartan is a great gun. I got mine used for 499
. All I did was add a fusion magwell and some grip tape. I have ran it through four ipsc and a multi gun match without a single problem. I also agree with Hickman, finding ammo at a fair price isn't easy.Mags - you can never go wrong with Wilson Combat 47D. Chip McCormick Shooting Star mags are also very good. Tripp are excellent, but very expensive.
Holster - I recommend either a Ky-Tac Sooper Hooper or a Safariland 561. I used a 561 with my SS.
I used to have an STI Trojan in 40 S&W, but I sold it so I could build my 6" 38 Super.
I'd second this advice. I had a buddy back in Iowa who bought a used STI Trojan in .45 and a used Kimber in .40 at the same time, the .40 runs like a top and the .45 was nothing but problems from the start.
As already stated, though, the only real reason to get one in .40 is to consolidate calibers for loading. I've got a Limited gun in .40 and a Production gun in .40 Minor, but my single stack is still a .45.
