RIT Dyeing Polymer Parts

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  • N_K_1984

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    After reading the How To article in Recoil (issue 2), I really wanted to try dyeing some polymer parts. However, I'm really curious if the dye will sweat out onto my skin during a hot day at the range. I wouldn't want to walk away with blackened, camo patterned hands and cheek. For anyone who has or would like to attempted polymer dyeing yet, I will share with you some of the info I’ve gathered in recent days?

    e25f23c1.jpg


    So after following the instructions in Recoil, I dyed two Tango Down grips, and attempted to dye some ERGO ladder rail covers. The ladder covers did not absorb any dye, even after soaking for about 20 minutes. The Tango Down grips dyed beautifully. The color came out great. I found the trick to keeping the color strong is not rinsing the parts after soaking in the dye. Rinsing kept turning the parts purple. After letting the parts air dry, the black color stayed strong. Dips were 1 minute at a time, pat dry between dips, and I dipped the parts about 15 times.
    Time and field testing will tell how the color holds up. But as of right now, they look great. I'm pretty pumped to have rescued these parts from the parts bin.

    7c3ea26d.jpg


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    ____

    After dyeing a Tango Down Rail Cover from FDE to black, I have decided to test the durability of the dye against oil and solvents. Since I am a regular user of CLP and Shooters Choice, I chose them.

    653bda26.jpg


    I didn't think CLP would effect the dye, but it was worth trying. I scrubbed the part with a brush dipped in CLP, I dipped the part in CLP, and I soaked it in CLP for 24 hours. There was ZERO leaching of the dye. There was no transfer to the scrub brush, no discoloration of the CLP in the plastic bag, and no dye rubbed off my skin after rough handling. Dyed polymer passes the CLP Test.

    6571c807.jpg

    Here is the cover being dipped in the CLP prior to scrubbing.

    3cd15e95.jpg

    Here is the part after aggressive scrubbing. Not effected.

    e95e9027.jpg

    Here you see the part in its 24 hour CLP bath, again no effect.
    ____

    2cf294dd.jpg


    As I mentioned before, Shooters Choice is strong enough to eat paint (Rattle can) right off of a gun. So, naturally, I thought it would be the dye's worst enemy. After dipping and scrubbing aggressively, it has had no effect in the dye whatsoever. I don't think sweat should be an issue.

    187183d4.jpg

    Here is the cover after a dip in Shooters Choice and an aggressive scrub. Once more, no effect.

    5587f766.jpg

    Here the rail is in the solvent, where it will stayed for 24 hours.

    Note: After just 20 minutes the Shooters choice is have a strong leaching effect on the dye. As seen below.
    5809b0c3.jpg


    1d72c3fd.jpg

    Here the part is in the bag after 24 hours of soaking. Notice the leached color in the solvent.

    34a27dcd.jpg

    Here is the rail cover after a thorough rinse in cold water. There is no effect on my skin; no transfer of color whatsoever.

    So here’s the verdict on the effect of Shooters Choice on the dyed polymer rail cover. While some dye did bleed off, the solvent has had no permanent effect on the dye. There was a lot of leached off dye in the bag, but the part looks fine, almost better than before!?

    While Shooters Choice may make your dyed goods bleed color, during prolonged exposure, I don't think you need to worry about any long term effects it might have on the dye. Now, this conclusion is based on dyeing one solid color, not a camo pattern. I fear that prolonged exposure of a pattern to solvents may result in multiple color bleeds. This is still to be determined.

    Other than some sweaty range testing, I'm not sure what the next test will be. Either way, go read Recoil, buy some RIT dye, and go experiment. It's a ton of fun. :ar15:
     

    figley

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    I've never had any problems with RIT dyed parts, but I was just trusting that it would be OK. Thank you, for doing the research.
     

    glockednlocked

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    Very interesting. I saw the article in recoil and admit I wondered about durability. Thank you for doing the research. I might have to try the dye :)
     

    sepe

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    I've read about quite a few people using RIT on a couple other boards and I haven't seen anyone complain of bleeding onto their hands but I don't think anyone has done any experimenting like this.

    :yesway:
     

    vitamink

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    N_K_1984

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    Here's a brief update.

    Had the rifle out to the range this weekend with the RIT Dyed grips installed. As you all know, it was HOT on Sunday. I was out for a good couple of hours, needless to say the grips had plenty of exposure to my sweaty paws. There was NO bleeding or leaching of the dye onto my skin. I'm really pleased.

    ...no range picture, but here are the dyed TangoDown grips on my rifle.
    e35b095d.jpg
     

    vitamink

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    Here's a brief update.

    Had the rifle out to the range this weekend with the RIT Dyed grips installed. As you all know, it was HOT on Sunday. I was out for a good couple of hours, needless to say the grips had plenty of exposure to my sweaty paws. There was NO bleeding or leaching of the dye onto my skin. I'm really pleased.

    ...no range picture, but here are the dyed TangoDown grips on my rifle.
    e35b095d.jpg

    To second what he's said. I've been dying parts for years and have never had a leeching issue. The colors are as true today as they were when i dyed them initially.
     

    N_K_1984

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    @ vitamink Have you dyed your parts solid colors or have you done any camo patterns. I have yet to do any camo, but I would be interested to see if any of the colors bleed into one another over time or with exposure to solvents, oils, water, sweat, etc. I feel like exposure to solvents might cause this the most, per my experiments (...but really, who's going to slather their entire weapon in Shooter's Choice?).

    As a final step to my dye jobs, I would wash away excess dye with icey cold water in the sink, it has yet to effect the final color of my parts, but I'm sure it helps my hands avoid being stained later down the road (as there is some residual dye that does very visibly wash away) I just wonder, if during this stage, any color would transfer or bleed into another. My hypothesis is that it's not likely, but as I don't have any other FDE parts laying around in my parts bin, I can't confirm this for myself. Yet.
     

    EPD1102

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    Thanks for sharing this post. I had never heard of dyeing polymer. I've always just painted it with Brownell's Aluma-Hyde or something and then re-painted when it wore off. This is good info.
     

    Harry2110

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    Darn now I want to do this instead of duracoating my ruger 1022 takedown. It seems way easier and cheaper. Plus cleanup is almost nil compared to airbrushing.

    The only issue is could I bleach the stock to make it white before dyeing or becuase its black I wont be able to do this?
     

    vitamink

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    I haven't done any camo, but i have dyed something red then changed my mind and dyed it blue to make purple and i have taken white nylon dipped half of it in blue then the other half in red. The blue stays blue the red stays red and where it meets is purple. The colors didn't seep into each other or anything. I hear if you do a camp pattern with tan green and black you'll want to start with tan mags, tape off sections then dye green, tape more off and dye black. Essentially dye from lightest to darkest. Here's a picture of some red tiger stripe...not mine but done with the process above.

    AR5E.jpg
     

    sepe

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    Darn now I want to do this instead of duracoating my ruger 1022 takedown. It seems way easier and cheaper. Plus cleanup is almost nil compared to airbrushing.

    The only issue is could I bleach the stock to make it white before dyeing or becuase its black I wont be able to do this?

    Sadly bleaching or stripping dye hasn't worked on PMags. I don't know if people have tried on other polymer formulas.
     
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