reloading/gunsmithing table design

[hornadylnl]

Here is quick old school drafting print I came up with for building a gunsmithing/ reloading table for my future gun vault. I hope to have it made out of oak. I'll go with 2 layers of 3/4" ply for the top probably and wrap it with oak trim and then put a sheet of rubber on top about 1/4" thick.

The top dimensions will be 4'x8' and 36" tall. There will be a 5' wide by 3' deep drawer that I'll make customer dividers for die boxes, cleaning rods, brushes, etc.

I'll probably have 2 of them made so I can have a dedicated one for smithing and cleaning one and the other for reloading only.

Anybody have any idea what it would cost to make one of these? I don't have the patience or the tools to build these myself. I want them to look nice.

 

[sandman]

Looks pretty straight forward. I am a general contractor in the indy area who gets kind of slow in the winter. For the past couple winters I have gone into little projects like this for myself. The only thing that you are looking at that will be a little salty is the oak sheeting. If I remember correctly they are about $80-$90 for a 4'x8' sheet. Just a suggestion on your cleaning table, go with a rubber shower pan liner. They are rather durable and will take some beating. I'd say you'd have roughly a three hundred in material by the time you are all finished up. Good luck and show some pics when your done.

 

[Kirk Freeman]

FWIW, you may consider a shelf underneath. A shelf is handy for storing powder, bullets, what have you.

I have one on mine.

 

[Eddie]

My table

I use an old table that came out of a high school wood shop. One of the nice features it has is a sunken area in the center. It is a good place to sit deburring tools, brass and such so that it won't roll off.

 

[rvb]

couple of thoughts...

keeping it square... When reloading, you will be putting a lot of forward/back stress on the table. From a side view you will need some form of cross bracing or sheeting between the legs (and/or bolt to the wall studs). If you're doing gunsmithing then that means work in a vice, so the same applies to the side-to-side. Some sheeting on the back can work to keep it square laterally. The less the bench flexes the more muscle goes into what you're working on, and the better feel you have for torquing barrels or seating primers.

When it comes to a real work bench, especially for reloading, I'm a firm believer that heavier is better. Then bolt/screw it to the floor and walls so it absolutely doesn't move.

regarding your drawer, it looks to wide, imo. A press arm will over hang the front of the bench. You'll need clearance for the press as well as mounting hardware. And you won't want to mount the press on the very end of the bench. I like bench space on either side of the press for easy access to more bullets/cases/etc.

The board along the bottom will be perfect for stubbing your toe on.

For a top I used mellanite (sp? I think that's what it's called).... used for cabinet making it's plywood w/ a smooth white top. Cleans up very easy, won't absorb oil/powder, and is quite smooth.

4' deep is too deep, imo. Kinda hard to reach... If you need the storage room consider adding cabinets over the bench. I made mine 30" deep and I wouldn't want any deeper. Kitchen cabinets are 24" for reference. For 8' accross I would add a 3rd leg in the middle, but may be over kill depending on how solid you make the face piece.

Sorry to come accross so critical, but I've put together a couple smithing/reloading benches now. None were pretty (2x4 and plywood construction), but they all have been very functional.

-rvb

 

[hornadylnl]

The bottom will have a shelf. I figure it will be good for bullet storage. Extra weight!

My reloading room will be 13' 7" x 31' 7". I'm planning to put these in the middle of the room so I can work all the way around them.

For the toe stubbing issue, I could raise the bottom platform about 6". The reason I'm going to a 5' drawer is mostly due to the length of cleaning rods.

I'd like to find an old gun vault that I can store powder in. I plan on putting up the heavy duty "build your own" shelves that menards sells to put my loaded ammo, etc on.

 

[Indycar]

Have multiple drawers, it's more user friendly. Brace the bejesus out of your design, too many flex points. Have your drawers on each of the three sides of your cut-out. The thicker your surface, the stronger your table will be.

 

[Eddie]

FYI

There is actually a design for a reloading bench in the most recent Speer manual.

 

[in_betts]

Pretty much rvb took the words out of my mouth! I too have built and used a few and I would like you to consider NO rail across the front. It really will make a big difference in user friendliness.

So basically if you want furniture and asthetics you will go a different route than utility or function. Consider structural steel as a base or bart of the bracing and frame and then cover with wood for working on and looking good.

Already mentioned but I will repeat, bolt it to the wall!!! Do this after you have the table designed and adjusted so it sets level at rest and shim to bolt to the wall so you aren't pulling the front feet up or losing level.

My current table is only 2' deep and 6' long and the frame is angle iron with a sheet steel top then covered with MDF as you have no splinters if you have an oops and it is smooth. The size of mine currently is based on available space, not optimum size. It certainly isn't as pretty as your design, but it suits me.

 

[IndyGunworks]

pm redneck medic... he built mine for a great price.... i went with cheap wood, but he works with higher end stuff as well... here is a pic of mine....

 

[IndyGunworks]

ill add that i put a rail in front after using it for a while to keep pins punches parts and other stuff from rolling off the front.... and i use the bottom shelf for bullet storage for weight as well.... and redneck medic put a power strip on the front for running things such as the dremel and laptop

 

[hornadylnl]

I wonder what a 3x8 piece of 1/2" steel weighs. Ive got some heavy wall 4x6 tube I could use for legs. I've got to be able to get this into a basement so I will have to put it together down there.

 

[rvb]

hornadaylnl,

knowing how you're using it makes it make a little more sense. 4'x8' works if you can use it all around. A room big enough for all that and you're building the drawers around some rods? Drill some 3/8" holes in the middle of the table and drop the rods into them so they hang by the handles. multiple 18" deep drawers on all sides will be much more user friendly and easier to get hardware for.


Here's my bench.... it's 8' x 30" deep

Notice I use my shelf to provide the structural support for the legs as you are using that board along the bottom... doesn't get in the way of toes, easier to store stuff under the bench, and set back a ways so shins never hit it. ... and when sitting on my stool I can rest my feet on the shelf. Shelf is made of subfloor.

You can see the cross-brace I am referring to on the right side. Ensures it stays square.

My new gun room is 90% done.... just doors/trim/shelves/TV yet to install. But I'm re-using my bench!

-rvb

 

[in_betts]

I wonder what a 3x8 piece of 1/2" steel weighs

If you meant 3' x 8' then its about 375#

I must have misunderstood too if you are putting the table in the middle of the room. Great to have that much room! I would still bolt it to the floor if you don't anticipate needing to move it.

 

[redneckmedic]

Looks pretty straight forward. I am a general contractor in the indy area who gets kind of slow in the winter. For the past couple winters I have gone into little projects like this for myself. The only thing that you are looking at that will be a little salty is the oak sheeting. If I remember correctly they are about $80-$90 for a 4'x8' sheet. Just a suggestion on your cleaning table, go with a rubber shower pan liner. They are rather durable and will take some beating. I'd say you'd have roughly a three hundred in material by the time you are all finished up. Good luck and show some pics when your done.

3/4" 4x8 Birch with an OAK STAIN is the way to go.... $40ish then use either banded overlay or trim to cover the veneer. PM if you want a price quote with several different options or accessories.

 

[hornadylnl]

If you meant 3' x 8' then its about 375#

I must have misunderstood too if you are putting the table in the middle of the room. Great to have that much room! I would still bolt it to the floor if you don't anticipate needing to move it.

It's going in the middle of the room. I probably won't be able to lag it to the floor as I'm wanting to run pex for radiant floor heat. Don't want to chance hitting the pex.

The table I have nowisnt built much different than the one I drew up. I run a progressive on it and it's on carpet and doesn't move all that much. It's only about 3 foot wide. By spreading it out to 4 foot, it will make it more stable. I agree that I will need to add cross bracing.

If I decide to go the steel table route, I'll have to drop it in the basement before the pour the main floor.

RNM,
I may look you up next summer if I go the wood route. I just don't have the woodworking tools to build them right and I'm not interested in buying them at this point.

 

[jwalt01]

Why not use kitchen cabnets like I did