Never wrenched before, valve cover gasket replacement

[a.bentonab]

Never wrenched before, valve cover gasket replacement-- Now with pics!

I've never wrenched on my car before but I have recently been looking for a way to become more familiar with it. Also I just got stuck with a $1400 repair bill and I'll do anything in my power to never have to pay that again! During the aforementioned service visit I was informed of a small oil leak but that it was not urgent. I put it off due to lack of funds.

I've looked at the oil leak and done extensive googling and youtubing and I'm pretty confident it is a leak at the valve cover and that a bad gasket is the most likely culprit. It seems like an easy enough job. In fact it seems to me like a great way to get familiar with the workings of my car and eventually work my way up to more involved things.

Seems I just purchase a new gasket available at Advance, loosen bolts to take the valve cover off, scrape any remaining remnants of gasket from both engine block and valve cover, lay down new one and torque bolts back to spec. It's got an ignition coil which seems to be easier than messing with individual spark plug wires.

Car is a 2006 Cobalt with the 2.2 Ecotec.

I've got some basic tools around the house but never really worked on cars before. I plan on buying ramps and a torque wrench for now. Anyone have any opinions on whether or not I can use the included scissor jacks for tire rotations/ oil changes or is it worth the expense to buy a decent one?

I'm also going to start changing the oil on it myself. Never was shown how to work on cars at all growing up. First sign of trouble and it would go off to the shop. I look forward to learning some useful and enjoyable skills!

 

[norman428]

If you are confident its the valve cover It's not a tough job at all. Just be certain before you jump in, and if you do decide to do it, check the spark plugs while you are in there. If its leaking into the plugs those will need replaced as well, also somewhat simple and straight forward. You may have wanted to ask the dealer where the oil leak was coming from.

The easiest thing to do? Watch youtube videos on how to do everything before you do it, makes life much easier. That's how I learned how to do some of the most complicated car maintenance.

As far as tools go, You will want a decent socket set, wrench set, ramps, and a torque wrench for most tasks. Don't trust the cheap scissor jacks unless you also have jack stands as well and the scissor is just to get it up. I would hit up Harbor Freight for some things like the torque wrench. Its 100 bucks most places, but around 25, depending on the size you need, at Harbor Freight. I've never had a problem with any tools I've purchased there.

If you can, I would have a friend help you who has worked on cars before. Some tasks can actually put you in a tough spot, just be careful with things. How many miles are on the car?

 

[churchmouse]

Norman is steering you in the right direction.
Valve covers are generally low torque rating when tightening so a smaller value or 3/8ths drive torque wrench is needed.

I would steer clear of the ramps. Until you have some skills in using them they can be hard on your car. I have seen the damage caused when they are either mis-used.
I do not know you mech. ability's but from your post you are just getting your feet wet.

If you are west side PM me and I will look at this for you (not do the work...) and get you going in the right direction.

-CM-

 

[steveh_131]

A valve cover gasket sounds like a pretty easy first-timer job. I always advocate wrenching on your own vehicle - it can be really fun and save you tons of money.

I always try to find a detailed write-up on the process online. Car forums are great for this. Here is one for your model:

All Engines Valve Cover- Removal and Installation. - Cobalt SS Network

I am no professional mechanic, so I always take my time. I study the guide carefully. The key is understanding each part that you're removing. What it does and how it interacts with the other parts around it. Once you understand that, you can be more confident as you disassemble and reassemble it. Once I studied up on how to change the CV joints in my Mazda, I didn't even need the guide. I was able to look at it and understand how the parts worked and how it would have to come apart and that made life MUCH easier.

 

[jontheturboguy]

Two words:
Torque specs.

 

[K_W]

Doesn't look too difficult, just be careful around the fuel lines and be sure not to over torque the bolts on the coil pack or ground wire. Those bolts (m6 size) break easily if torqued too much.

 

[Bull1315]

Hardest part of a valve cover gasket replacement would be keeping the gasket aligned while your trying to reinstall the bolts. A small amount of rtv on the gasket to help hold it helps a bit. Best deal is if the head has valve cover studs instead of bolts. Doing your own wrenching is a good thing to do.

 

[LtScott14]

Use a 1/4 in drive set to install. The heads are metric, bigger drive sockets can put too much pressure on the bolts. The you tube idea is a good one.
Get some waterless hand cleaner it will grime up your hands or wear gloves.

 

[88GT]

Two words:
Torque specs.

HA! And even those aren't necessarily right. I cranked down the valve cover bolts to spec on the fox body years ago and heard this loud CRACK!!!!!. Valve cover cracked.

The hardest part of valve cover/gasket replacement isn't in the valve cover/gasket replacement. It's in the all the other crap you might have to remove and put back to get to them. If you are not the type of person that can see how something goes together and then put it back together just from memory, take the steps to document what goes where before you unbutton the thing. I recommend pictures. May not be applicable to your vehicle, but be forewarned if it is.

 

[saleen4971]

def an easy novice job. if they are on an angle where there is dirt or other crap resting on top, clean that off before you remove the cover. other than that, move everything over it out of the way, remove bolts (or studs if they are there - mark where they go) clean both surfaces, maybe a little RTV if you want (or to hold the gasket in place) then tighten to spec.

once you get mroe involved in auto repairs, you can use your calibrated wrist to get em tight enough, but if its your first time i would go to spec. 1/4" drive, or 3/8" if thats all you can find

 

[sepe]

Replacing the valve cover gasket won't be a bad job to start with at all. Like already mentioned, don't try to over tighten them. One of the backyard "mechanics" that I know that has a Cobalt SS is in the practice of snapping the bolts. He said the manual he had it listed the specs at 71 ft/lbs, I'm guessing they broke well before he tried getting there. Should probably be able to use a 1/4" drive and get it snug then go 1/4 of a turn. Check it again after a week or 2 just to make sure the heating/cooling cycles didn't loosen it up too much. If you over torque it and don't snap the bolts, you'll most likely end up developing another leak. In general, taking some decent pics before and during can help get everything back where it needs to be without added frustration.

I don't like using the cheap scissor jacks for anything, if it can be avoided.

Norman is steering you in the right direction.
Valve covers are generally low torque rating when tightening so a smaller value or 3/8ths drive torque wrench is needed.

I would steer clear of the ramps. Until you have some skills in using them they can be hard on your car. I have seen the damage caused when they are either mis-used.
I do not know you mech. ability's but from your post you are just getting your feet wet.

If you are west side PM me and I will look at this for you (not do the work...) and get you going in the right direction.

-CM-

I've seen someone not know when to stop on ramps, even when they had people telling them to stop. Luckily, for them, their car was already a giant POS.

 

[92ThoStro]

Just don't get any dirt down in there.

When you change oil make sure you change the filter every time. Even if you have a 15,000 mile filter. You would be filtering clean oil through a used filter.

Ramps are easy to use, if you ever use a ramp. Jacks are better to change oil with though.
You park, and bring the ramps TO your car. And put them wedged under your wheels like you would a stopping block.
Then give it a little gas until you roll right up, and stop when you feel it go over the ramp part, and up to the flat area.
If you want, you could even put a mirror in your garage facing you, so you can watch.

I have never had a problem doing it this way.

 

[Brandon]

Easy. Do yourself a favor though... Take a few pictures durring the process.

I had cavalier that needed this done. If I remember correctly it took less then an hour to complete and most of that time was moving all the cables and junk on top of the cover.

 

[9mmfan]

Since fuel injection became standard, it has become much easier to change a valve cover gasket than it was before. Lets just say 'Vacuum line **ll' will make a monk swear!

 

[Cpl. Klinger]

Easy. Do yourself a favor though... Take a few pictures durring the process.

I had cavalier that needed this done. If I remember correctly it took less then an hour to complete and most of that time was moving all the cables and junk on top of the cover.

This. I did the valve cover gasket on my wife's 2008 Focus a few weeks ago. Getting the cover off by weaving through all the junk was the hardest part. Not sure of the GM gaskets, but the Ford gasket was a rubber piece that extended down from the valve cover, so getting it seated correctly was a snap.

 

[churchmouse]

Replacing the valve cover gasket won't be a bad job to start with at all. Like already mentioned, don't try to over tighten them. One of the backyard "mechanics" that I know that has a Cobalt SS is in the practice of snapping the bolts. He said the manual he had it listed the specs at 71 ft/lbs, I'm guessing they broke well before he tried getting there. Should probably be able to use a 1/4" drive and get it snug then go 1/4 of a turn. Check it again after a week or 2 just to make sure the heating/cooling cycles didn't loosen it up too much. If you over torque it and don't snap the bolts, you'll most likely end up developing another leak. In general, taking some decent pics before and during can help get everything back where it needs to be without added frustration.

I don't like using the cheap scissor jacks for anything, if it can be avoided.



I've seen someone not know when to stop on ramps, even when they had people telling them to stop. Luckily, for them, their car was already a giant POS.

Yoi know of what I speak......

My dad bought a set of ramps. I warned him of the downside to this but like most dads they never pay attention. Mom drove the truck off the end of the ramps and mashed in the fenders just ahead of the doors. Not the only time I have seen this damage.

Also make sure the ramps are secure. They have a tendency to get pushed when trying to drive up on them.

Screw ramps. Proper floor jack and a decent set of stands.

 

[92ThoStro]

The PCV valve hose you can chuck in the trash and replace with a small breather filter.

 

[FWP9MM]

If you are truly a novice and want to learn how to do more, I would advise going to a local U-Pull-It yard and practice on one of the cars on their lot. Generally $2.00 gets you in for the day and you can mess up one of their junk cars instead of your own while you learn. You can take apart the majority of GM vehicles with 7mm, 8mm, 10mm, 13mm, 15mm, 18mm and 19mm shallow and deep sockets with various extensions.

ALLDATAdiy.com Leading Source of Factory Automotive Repair Information is a good source of information for a reasonable price.
I also tend to use youtube and as well as other web forums for the particular vehicle/engine I am working on.

 

[bwframe]

You need to ask yourself a few questions before you get started with this project;
Do you have a backup vehicle for parts running and or work/commuting, etc. in the event something critical breaks?
Have you extensively Googled this exact repair on this exact vehicle in advance (as opposed to when you are elbow deep in "oh !" ?
How many miles does the vehicle have? As in, is it better to let this leak rather than risk causing further problems?

 

[a.bentonab]

Hey guys thanks for the advice. I got the gasket I needed at Advance for ~$25 and bought some tools I hope to use the rest of my life. Got the gasket switched out this afternoon. Probably could have done it much quicker but I so cleaned the valve cover pretty good. Also took my time and made sure I didn't mess anything up!

It took me forever to find out the torque specs on the bolts which was the most anxiety producing moments of the whole thing! I'd never torqued a bolt before and the Internet was FULL of people who have broken valve covers and/or bolts.

Next question: is it worth it to find a copy of the repair manual? The owners manual was where I first looked for torque specs but found it severely lacking in useful info.