Finally starting to make knives

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  • Love the 1911

    Sharpshooter
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    6   0   0
    Oct 20, 2010
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    I posted a photo of an anvil I purchased a while ago to make knives and have finally started completing a few. I am looking for feedback on my current designs to see what you guys like and what you think I can improve on. I am currently using 1095 steel and utilizing a stock removal method, not yet forging. I am using an oxy-acetylene torch and light oil for the heat treat process before quenching in an oven. So far, I have had good results with toughness and edge holding. The steel that I have been using is 1/4", so that could be tricking me into thinking the toughness is better than my heat treat actually makes it. Anyway, here are the pictures. Any feedback is greatly appreciated.

    These were the first 2 that I made and had friends test out. One is still out, the other tested well with the first tester who included some batoning, throwing, stabbing/prying in wood in an effort to hollow out a portion for fire starting. The biggest issue that was seen was the wrap was too loose and the finger guard was not deep enough, leaving his hand susceptible to slipping up into the blade. The next tester, at my request, was able to bend the knife by wedging it in the fork of a mature tree and using all his weight and pulling strength. I have since restraightened it, re-heat treated it, and sharpened it up for one last round. Then I will break it to inspect the crystal and see how the heat treat did.
    picture.php


    This next one was a very similar overall design but I lengthened the blade slightly and also tilted it slightly forward, giving it more of a natural thrusting feel. It is also being tested although I haven't received any feedback yet.
    picture.php


    This last one is a completely new design that I started from the ground up. I made sure to address the guard, making it bigger to protect hands. I also curved the blade further down, making it much less of a thrusting knife and more of a slicer. I tested this blade on some 1-1.5 inch sticks laying around and it performed admirably. It has also been sent with a friend with instructions to abuse it beyond what he would do with a knife he owns so I can see where it will fail.

    picture.php


    I appreaciate any and all feedback.

    It has been a while since I have posted on this site but thought I'd come back and hang out with the knife guys for a while to see if I will warm up to it again. Thanks for looking.
     

    Mosinguy

    Shooter
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    Feb 27, 2011
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    North Dakota soon...
    If you want to apply a cheap coating to those knives to prevent corrosion, I recommend a forced patina. I received a free Forgecraft carbon knife Friday and experimented applying a patina to it by putting the knife in a tall glass of lemon juice for about two hours. It came out a nice grey color. I'd imagine vinegar would create the same results. If you want a more natural patina, stab a potato/lemon/grapefruit and leave your knife in it for a few hours. Anything with a natural acidity will patina your knife.
     

    finnegan

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    Nov 7, 2011
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    Clark County
    My only concern is the hole drilled at the hilt/ blade intersection. As far as a stress point, that is the most crucial for prying. Fortunately, you have a lot of real estate around it and its obviously on the thickest part of the tang; but you have still introduced a weakpoint at the literal weakest point for prying purposes.
     
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    Dec 17, 2009
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    Tampa, FL
    Looks great! Very nice work and major props for heat treating at home. Question on the heat treat process. I assume you meant to say quenching in the oil and tempering in the oven. Are you doing a full quench in the oil or a partial/edge quench?
     

    Love the 1911

    Sharpshooter
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    Oct 20, 2010
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    Looks great! Very nice work and major props for heat treating at home. Question on the heat treat process. I assume you meant to say quenching in the oil and tempering in the oven. Are you doing a full quench in the oil or a partial/edge quench?

    Thanks for the compliments and recommendation everyone.

    As for the heat treat, yes, quenching in oil and tempering in the oven. I have been experiencing with both an edge quench and a full quench. Due to the complexities of heat treating 1095, I have ordered some 1084 and will try to obtain a heat treating furnace for cheap in the near future.
     
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    Dec 17, 2009
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    Tampa, FL
    My one recommendation is the leave full quenching to 1084. 1095 has a tendency to get brittle with a full quench, even with tempering. I've done it and it works but I've also had pieces crack because it was too aggressive of a quench, but you probably won't have that issue as much with stock removal as you will when you start forging. Another advantage to edge quench, then polish the blade down, try degreasing it then rubbing it with lime to bring out the temper line. It looks kind of like a hamon. Looks wicked cool when you get one of those showing up.
     
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    7   0   0
    Dec 17, 2009
    2,489
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    Tampa, FL
    Oh btw, I have an idea for you. I take it you are a 1911 fan. Try making one with wood slabs bolted on each side for a slab tang handle. Except, don't just make it any wood slabs, use 1911 wood slab grips. Good luck getting that idea out of your head till you try it. :): :D
     
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