Check my NFA item logic please

[craigkim]

So, my NFA questions are varied and as follows. Bear in mind that I will consult with appropriate legal counsel prior to proceeding with any of these ideas.

Here is the background… I have a trust prepared by an attorney…I am getting ready to file form 1s on a few different lowers to convert them into SBRs. Initially I thought I would file them on all of my lowers, but then I happened to think…. How many do I actually even want? By my thinking only 2, maybe my favorite forged lower and my favorite billet lower. I would like an NFA 300 blk in the 9” range and a 5.56 registered at 12.5” and a second 5.56 upper at 14.5”. I know I am only shedding a bit on the 14.5, but by my estimation, 14.5 is about where I would prefer my 16” rifle to be anyway. The 12.5” barrel would probably only ever be shot suppressed and I could just have 2 uppers for that same lower, one at 12.5” and one at 14.5” or I guess they could bounce back and forth between the other registered lower.

First question is I assume that a midlength gas 16” barrel can be pretty easily cut/threaded to a 14.5” without changes in reliability. Is this correct? My barrel is a Noveske 16” CHF sold factory completed as a “Gen III upper”. It would be relatively inexpensive to cut it vs buying a new premium barrel/bolt ($500) and because I would register the lower with the 12.5” barrel, if I wanted to convert the rifle back to non NFA condition, I could have the 14.5” welded on to make 16”. Sound reasonable?

Second question. During the wait, if I buy a stripped lower that has never had any parts including a stock attached to it, I can call it a pistol in the interim and buy the shorter barrels with the intent to use them on said pistol lower? Correct? I know this is the case, if it has a pistol buffer tube, but I am unsure about a completely stripped lower. To be more clear, if I have a stripped lower that has never been built as a rifle I am legal to submit a form one on it and I am legal to possess <16” barrels with the intent to build it with those barrels as a pistol prior to form 1 approval correct? Then once I receive my stamp, I would complete it as a rifle legally? The reason that this would be advantageous is that I could ensure that I get the exact make/length of barrels I want rather than have them be sold out once my Form 1s are approved. I think that some of these barrels will get scarce as the form 1 avalanche comes to and guys start to put funds into their sbr barrels as opposed to suppressors and registrations.

Question 3. Regarding suppressors and their attachments. My intent is to acquire 2 of them, a silencerco omega and a dead air ghost. One better suited to rifle calibers and one suited to pistol calibers. As I am researching suppressors I am starting to develop a different logic about their use than most. Sure qd connections on flash hiders or comps are cool , but it seems that the direct thread attachment is the most stable and has the least effect on poi. So, wouldn’t it make more sense to use a flash hider that doesn’t require rocksett or firm attachment on the rifles when you aren’t shooting them suppressed? What I mean is, the Smith Vortex flash hider for example, can be simply turned on hand tight and, because of its helical configuration, it self tightens during shooting. It’s also pretty much as good as you can get for a flash hider too, (though cosmetically I don’t think it looks awesome). Then if you wanted to take it off, just turn it off by hand and turn the suppressor on. You’d probably need a gloved hand, but this makes more sense to me. Why would I want anything more than a flash hider on an sbr anyway, I assume a compensator at 12” on a 5.56 is ridiculously loud.

Thanks for your ideas and constructive criticism.

 

[Hop]

I'm sure you could get a 16 cut down to 14.5 and tune it to work. If I were you I'd call Noveske and ask about the gas port size.
You could blind pin and weld or silver solder a 1.5" long flash hider onto the 14.5 and use it as a non-NFA gun.

Yes, you can build a stripped lower into a pistol and even use it with a short barrel while waiting for a Form 1 approval.

Direct thread mounts & guns are lighter. A QD style from one manufacturer rarely fits any other manufacturer. I don't know what fits a "Smith Vortex". Sorry.
Silencerco told me a brake showed less baffle erosion than a flash hider, especially on really short barrels like my 10.3. I went with a .30 cal Saker with brakes for both 5.56 & .308. An SBR is loud no matter what's on the end of the barrel. That's one good reason to run it suppressed all the time with a direct thread.

 

[mammynun]

I'm sure you could get a 16 cut down to 14.5 and tune it to work. If I were you I'd call Noveske and ask about the gas port size.
You could blind pin and weld or silver solder a 1.5" long flash hider onto the 14.5 and use it as a non-NFA gun.

Yes, you can build a stripped lower into a pistol and even use it with a short barrel while waiting for a Form 1 approval.

Direct thread mounts & guns are lighter. A QD style from one manufacturer rarely fits any other manufacturer. I don't know what fits a "Smith Vortex". Sorry.
Silencerco told me a brake showed less baffle erosion than a flash hider, especially on really short barrels like my 10.3. I went with a .30 cal Saker with brakes for both 5.56 & .308. An SBR is loud no matter what's on the end of the barrel. That's one good reason to run it suppressed all the time with a direct thread.

I read it as though he plans to unscrew the Vortex and direct thread the suppressor...

I will say that my 7 AAC 51t mounts did become expensive and, FWIW, I settled on Blackout flash hiders. I had an AAC 2 chamber brake on the end of an 18" barrel and I thought it was more uncomfortable, volume-wise, than a 10.5" with a flash hider.

 

[craigkim]

I read it as though he plans to unscrew the Vortex and direct thread the suppressor...

I will say that my 7 AAC 51t mounts did become expensive and, FWIW, I settled on Blackout flash hiders. I had an AAC 2 chamber brake on the end of an 18" barrel and I thought it was more uncomfortable, volume-wise, than a 10.5" with a flash hider.

Exactamundo! I was thinking that one would just unscrew the flash hider, then screw the suppressor onto the threads to the shoulder. I thought that this would give me the least POI shift and save the cost of a a few proprietary muzzle brakes, plus it would likely be less obnoxious. BUT, Hop's post taught me something that I did not previously know and I now understand that using a compensator for attachment seems to reduce baffle wear over a flash hider or the direct thread option. I may still direct thread for my hunting 300 blk, or just wear my amplified hearing protection like last year and leave the suppressor, plus its weight, in the safe.