ar15 build trigger?

[tazl3oy]

First of sorry if this is in the wrong are or has already been posted
So I'm doing my first ar build the lower is 99% done all I'm missing is the trigger... Iv seen the lower parts kit for cheap but what I'm looking for is the complete stock trigger (at least for now) but I can't find a stock trigger group for cheap can anyone point me in the right area or does anyone here have the extra parts that they are willing to help me with

 

[jd4320t]

You can find them online for $60 or a little less. I don't know about the north side but I know there are a few shops on the south side that will have them in stock.

Here is one at Brownells.
AR-15 ENHANCED MILITARY-STYLE TRIGGERS | Brownells

If you think you will just change it later my advice is to decide which one you want and save for it.

Another option is to pay your site supporter fee and then post a WTB ad. Trust me it's worth it.

 

[2tonic]

Here's a link for you. I can highly recommend the ACT trigger. These triggers are tuned by Geissele, so the quality is impeccable. They can sometimes be found at a discount.

Triggers

 

[tazl3oy]

Thanks guys for the info... Now here's one more question for Ya... If they sell the complete ar lower parts kits for 60+ how come the factory trigger run 60 alone? one would think that if its all the same there would be a big difference in price?

 

[jd4320t]

They buy in bulk. Also, I'd guess the trigger group is the most expensive piece to manufacture.

 

[Electronrider]

Here's a tip from someone who has 4 or 5 trigger groups from parts kits sitting in the parts box: Save up and spend as much as you can for a good trigger. I would look at the geissele line of triggers, they are top tear and the company/owner is a HUGE gun rights supporter. 200 bucks sounds like a lot of money for a trigger, but the difference is incredible. If you want to go a little cheaper, Rock river 2 stage triggers are extremely nice value for the money.

ETA: if you really don't want to spend any money, and just want a trigger, send me a PM. as stated above, I have several trigger groups sitting in the parts bin. They suck, they have very heavy pulls, but they do work.

 

[Airborne18th]

+1 on the geissele triggers. They are top notch quality. It will change your platform. You could also change out that lower and place another upper and use the same trigger.
I put on the SSA-E and It collapsed my groups at the range. They have a cheaper trigger for 165.00. If cash is the issue or you want to shoot now buy them used or new. I think I have at least 2 some as well.
Triggers

 

[grunt soldier]

If your trying to blow the x ring out and do competitions where 1 moa accuracy is required by a very nice trigger now. However if your just going use it as a range toy or for 3 gun ect you would be just fine running a ALG QMS or ACT. you can get the qms for like 30 bucks and it's a damn fine trigger. I run them on a few of my Ar's that I have taken to atterbury and qualified with out to 500 yards. They are a very solid reliable mil-spec trigger that has been nicely polished up to take away the grit and stuff from the pull.

 

[tazl3oy]

Just as a update I was able to score a complete stock trigger with pins for 25$ till I can blow the 100-200 on a good one (timiny or some of the others you guys have said) thanks for all the info you guys have given... I do plan on upgrading it but just wanted it complete till I can get what I want..

 

[CountryBoy19]

Just as a update I was able to score a complete stock trigger with pins for 25$ till I can blow the 100-200 on a good one (timiny or some of the others you guys have said) thanks for all the info you guys have given... I do plan on upgrading it but just wanted it complete till I can get what I want..

You should look into the "$10 AR trigger job". It gets you DARN CLOSE to a real match grade trigger at the cost of a little time and some aftermarket springs. I've done it to several of my AR's and I plan to do it to the rest when I have time. It's not that I can't afford match triggers, I could buy 100 of them tomorrow if I desired. The fact of the matter is, if I can get very close to a $200 trigger by putting a little time and $10 into the trigger I already have, why spend the extra money? FWIW, I've had several people shoot my AR's with the $10 trigger job and ask me which aftermarket trigger I was using. When I tell/show them what it really is they can't believe it. From the crowd that hasn't already spent money on a match trigger they tell me I just saved them $200 dollars. From the crowd that has already spent money on the match trigger I normally get 2 different reactions. Some of them hem-haw around trying to defend why their match trigger is still worth the $200 and why it's still better than mine. Others are a bit embarrassed that they spent the big-bucks when they could have had a similar feeling trigger for so little money.

If you're truly using this for match shooting, by all means, get an expensive match trigger. It has adjustments and very small refinements that can make a difference for some peole in a competition. And if you're competition shooting, $200 more into your rifle isn't much in the grand scheme of thigns. However, if this is a range-toy and defensive gun, I highly recommend you save the money you would spend on a match trigger and put that money into ammo for practice and other things that will give you a much greater advantage...

 

[USMC-Johnson]

When you are ready to upgrade the trigger take a long hard look at CMC. absolutely astounded by mine.

 

[sig1473]

ALG QMS/ACT, Timney, or Geissele.

 

[tazl3oy]

Ok so I had bought the factory trigger and the surface looked like it didn't need polishing.... I did the 50 cent trigger job it feels better.. but I still would like to get a 3&1/2-4lb springs... Ilooked it up on midwayusa but tthere was a lot of different choices so who has what and recommends what?

 

[USMC-Johnson]

i still vote CMC for the value you get. its a great trigger.

 

[tazl3oy]

i still vote CMC for the value you get. its a great trigger.

Well at the moment I don't have 100$+ to blow when I still don't have the upper so for the moment I just want to improve what I have now and upgrade it once the rifle is 100% done (this is for a 300 blackout build)

 

[CountryBoy19]

Well at the moment I don't have 100$+ to blow when I still don't have the upper so for the moment I just want to improve what I have now and upgrade it once the rifle is 100% done (this is for a 300 blackout build)

Do the $10 trigger job. Worst case scenario, if you don't like it, you aren't out much and you can always upgrade later. Trigger work? - AR15.COM

 

[dhamby]

Well at the moment I don't have 100$+ to blow when I still don't have the upper so for the moment I just want to improve what I have now and upgrade it once the rifle is 100% done (this is for a 300 blackout build)

Get a set of JP Enterprises low power springs, polish the sear surface on the trigger itself, and do the set screw mod. You will be amazed at how well you can make the mil spec triggers feel.

 

[tazl3oy]

I'm going to get lighter springs not to sure if ill end up using the hammer spring I don't like the idea of a possible light primer strike/s... The set screw is in... Not sure about polishing things I don't wanna end up changing the angle or anything who knows I might but thanks to everyone who responded and pointing me in the right areas

 

[CountryBoy19]

I'm going to get lighter springs not to sure if ill end up using the hammer spring I don't like the idea of a possible light primer strike/s... The set screw is in... Not sure about polishing things I don't wanna end up changing the angle or anything who knows I might but thanks to everyone who responded and pointing me in the right areas

IMHO, all of the things you mentioned an aversion to are critical to improving you trigger feel. I will explain why.

Hammer spring: The sear engagement on most firearms is such that it's not only the trigger spring that contributes to pull weight. In pulling the trigger the angled sear-surface actually pulls the hammer to the rear a bit before it is released. You can keep the same hammer spring if you wish, but your trigger pull weight will not change much. You need to replace the hammer spring as well to get a noticable decrease in pull weight. To counter the light primer strike concern you need to bob the hammer as described/shown. This lightens the hammer and you end up with the same amount of energy hitting the primer, it's just via a lighter/faster hammer than a heavy/slow hammer. FWIW, I have done a LOT of experimentation with the light JP hammer/trigger springs. I have NEVER been able to get a failure to fire even using a full-weight, stock hammer. I bobbed mine just for the added peace of mind. Also of note is that bobbing your hammer will decrease lock-time. Decreased lock-time is always beneficial.

Polishing the sear-surface: While not "critical" it can be greatly beneficial. There are machining marks and other roughness on those 2 surfaces. When they slide on one another you feel it in the trigger, that is what gives a gritty feel. Think of it as 2 pieces of sand-paper being drug across one another. Not only is it hard to slide them past each-other, but it's gritty and "jumpy" feeling. That is your sear surface. I understand your hesitation, but it's not really that hard. Get a hard block of something (steel etc) wrap a small strip of super fine sandpaper (350-1000 grit) around it and carefully run it on the sear surfaces. You can also use knife sharpening stones if you have them (fine stone). Anything that is solid and flat will keep the sear surface the same if you can hold it flat on the sear.

 

[Hookeye]

I just use the GI trigger, with JP spring kit change and set screw above grip screw to take creep out.
Sometimes I'll notch the trigger to get even more, but then I have to take some off the disconnector face since there's no other movement.
Of course I do polish the hammer/sear faces.
Decent hunting trigger for $20.