Since I'm pretty dense, I still don't have a good feel for whether people are using anti-seize on their cans and if the use them on the baffles. So, a poll seems like a good way to gather data on this without requiring everyone to post a individual message and then having to go in and collate the data.
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Anti-seize use on Suppressors
- Thread starter Beowulf
- Start date
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CountryBoy19
Grandmaster
I didn't vote because I don't think my experience correlates to the "info" you're after. I don't have any user-serviceable cans, only welded designs. I do use copper formula, high-temp anit-seize on the muzzle threads of the rifle.
I would recommend that if you're having troubles with the gray synthetic/polymer based anti-seize you try some of the copper, high-temp stuff instead. I've always had really good success with the copper based stuff even in high temp applications (it's made for exhaust manifold use etc).
I would recommend that if you're having troubles with the gray synthetic/polymer based anti-seize you try some of the copper, high-temp stuff instead. I've always had really good success with the copper based stuff even in high temp applications (it's made for exhaust manifold use etc).
LOL A true user
This is what happens when you only use it on the end caps and not the baffle.
The baffle on this one seized up on the sleeve. It always had regular cleanings, but apparently very dirty ammo.
Yeah, it was your post about your Zephyr that got me thinking about it. I just got my suppressor and have yet to take it apart and clean it, so your experience worried me.
Thanks for everyone for the responses and keep the votes coming!
As I posted in the other thread, I just took my Kestrel 556 apart the other day and scrubbed it up a little. I coated the whole outsides of the baffles and blast chamber insert, and every thread on the suppressor with the silver colored anti-seize. Havent shot it yet, but Ill post my results in a couple weeks once I get another 500+ rounds through it.
I only have a .22lr can right now. I have never used anti-seize on it. Shot a lot through it too.
First set of baffles got stuck pretty good. I upgraded and now I can push the baffles out with the end of a tooth brush. Maybe I don't shoot it long enough for the end caps to get seized up. Don't know.
Saw the pics of the ruined monocore and cleaned mine again.
Mine is a Huntertown Arms Kestrel 22
When I get a big boy can I will be putting the goop on at least the threads for the barrel.
First set of baffles got stuck pretty good. I upgraded and now I can push the baffles out with the end of a tooth brush. Maybe I don't shoot it long enough for the end caps to get seized up. Don't know.
Saw the pics of the ruined monocore and cleaned mine again.
Mine is a Huntertown Arms Kestrel 22
When I get a big boy can I will be putting the goop on at least the threads for the barrel.
I've used this for years for numerous applications and it works well.
Loctite p/n 77124, nickel based antiseize, 8 oz. brush top bottle, temperature range up to 2,400*F.
Not all nickle antiseize are rated for that high of temps.
Copper based antiseize are not all the same either.
Loctite p/n 77124, nickel based antiseize, 8 oz. brush top bottle, temperature range up to 2,400*F.
Not all nickle antiseize are rated for that high of temps.
Copper based antiseize are not all the same either.
I didn't vote because the answer depends on what kind of can you're talking about.
A couple points that might make more sense and help with decision making.
You need to state whether you're talking about rimfire or centerfire cans. Rimfire cans get very dirty and tend to stick baffles to the tube and together with crap. There is frequently lots of carbon and other hard material that would create a mechanical lock to prevent part removal. On the other hand, in most centerfire rifle cans there isn't much other than some carbon on the baffles and getting them apart (if they're not welded cans) should be much simpler.
For anti-seize the nickel types are probably best. It doesn't matter if its Loctite, permatex, napa or whatever. I don't think there are really many companies making the stuff so its all probably coming from a couple different plants. It works the same.
Copper can cause some corrosion problems so I generally recommend to customers that they not use copper on anything that has aluminum components. Copper is much higher on the electrolytic food chain and aluminum is near the bottom. This means your battery (suppressor made from dissimilar metals) will corrode the aluminum more readily and this can cause the very problem you're trying to avoid....sticking of parts. You will get moisture in the can from powder gasses and this along with the electrolytic issues can turn your aluminum into white powder that sticks things together.
As a manufacturer I tell customers that overdoing any good thing will create problems. Don't gob up your parts and push them together with slimy anti-seize oozing out everywhere. Keep it thin. The nickel, graphite or copper are what do the anti-sieze part and the rest of the mix is oil, wax and other petrochemicals that will turn to carbon on combustion. That will just stick things worse.
Heating the can up to the extreme will also cause problems. If you like to get it hot than clean it more often. This applies to rimfire cans as I don't see any reason to clean out a normal pistol or rifle cal can. On them a little anti-seize on the endcaps and a tad on the barrel thread will keep you fine for a long time.
Shooting just a few rounds and tossing the can in the safe for couple weeks is also a troublemaker. The can needs to become hot enough to evaporate all the water. If you don't get it hot enough than you'll have moisture building up in the can and letting it sit will allow corrosion. Aluminum and steel don't like each other either so nickel, copper or graphite be damned, alum just wants to turn to white powder. Don't help it by leaving the moisture in the can.
As for anti-seize being or having ablative properties the answer is sure, if you use too much. You don't want all that extra crap in the can. The powdered metal can add to the issues of cleaning and sticking if you use too much. Keep it reasonable. If you want ablative materials in your rimfire or pistol cans use oil, grease, wire pulling lube, etc. Its cheaper and won't create the gunk your anti-seize does.
Hope that helps
Frank
A couple points that might make more sense and help with decision making.
You need to state whether you're talking about rimfire or centerfire cans. Rimfire cans get very dirty and tend to stick baffles to the tube and together with crap. There is frequently lots of carbon and other hard material that would create a mechanical lock to prevent part removal. On the other hand, in most centerfire rifle cans there isn't much other than some carbon on the baffles and getting them apart (if they're not welded cans) should be much simpler.
For anti-seize the nickel types are probably best. It doesn't matter if its Loctite, permatex, napa or whatever. I don't think there are really many companies making the stuff so its all probably coming from a couple different plants. It works the same.
Copper can cause some corrosion problems so I generally recommend to customers that they not use copper on anything that has aluminum components. Copper is much higher on the electrolytic food chain and aluminum is near the bottom. This means your battery (suppressor made from dissimilar metals) will corrode the aluminum more readily and this can cause the very problem you're trying to avoid....sticking of parts. You will get moisture in the can from powder gasses and this along with the electrolytic issues can turn your aluminum into white powder that sticks things together.
As a manufacturer I tell customers that overdoing any good thing will create problems. Don't gob up your parts and push them together with slimy anti-seize oozing out everywhere. Keep it thin. The nickel, graphite or copper are what do the anti-sieze part and the rest of the mix is oil, wax and other petrochemicals that will turn to carbon on combustion. That will just stick things worse.
Heating the can up to the extreme will also cause problems. If you like to get it hot than clean it more often. This applies to rimfire cans as I don't see any reason to clean out a normal pistol or rifle cal can. On them a little anti-seize on the endcaps and a tad on the barrel thread will keep you fine for a long time.
Shooting just a few rounds and tossing the can in the safe for couple weeks is also a troublemaker. The can needs to become hot enough to evaporate all the water. If you don't get it hot enough than you'll have moisture building up in the can and letting it sit will allow corrosion. Aluminum and steel don't like each other either so nickel, copper or graphite be damned, alum just wants to turn to white powder. Don't help it by leaving the moisture in the can.
As for anti-seize being or having ablative properties the answer is sure, if you use too much. You don't want all that extra crap in the can. The powdered metal can add to the issues of cleaning and sticking if you use too much. Keep it reasonable. If you want ablative materials in your rimfire or pistol cans use oil, grease, wire pulling lube, etc. Its cheaper and won't create the gunk your anti-seize does.
Hope that helps
Frank
