S&W M686 Refurb

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  • drillsgt

    Grandmaster
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    108   0   0
    Nov 29, 2009
    9,638
    149
    Sioux Falls, SD
    I've been looking for a 4 inch M686 for awhile for a project and finally snagged one on GB. I wanted just a shooter grade that I could work on and I was pleasantly surprised when this one came in as it looked even better than the pictures. There was a little gouge on the right side of the barrel after the .357 magnum lettering but with a bit of work I got it out. It was a bit challenging working around the barrel radius but I got it out and it looks fine. Other than that one gouge most anything else I could just get out with some scotch-brite. I did my usual recessed crown, cylinder hole chamfering and a bit with the trigger, after that did a nice bead blast and put on some VZ grips. I shot it when I first got it and it shoots great. I've worked on quite a few used SS revolvers lately and if you own one take the grips off once in awhile, most I have seen have rust under the grips, it forms a little line right along the radius of the grip on the frame.

    Before

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    2alxgeym.jpg


    After

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    Last edited:

    Trapper Jim

    Master
    Site Supporter
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    22   0   0
    Dec 18, 2012
    2,691
    77
    Arcadia
    I like that extra chamfer but I wouldn't want to do it without a lathe. Is that a 629-4 or 5?
    It’s a dash 4. Years ago a few of used to shoot revolver matches with 44 mag. 240 Keith lead over a case full of Hercules 2400 out of these 4 inchers. Fun days but kids, don’t try this at home.
     

    drillsgt

    Grandmaster
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    108   0   0
    Nov 29, 2009
    9,638
    149
    Sioux Falls, SD
    It’s a dash 4. Years ago a few of used to shoot revolver matches with 44 mag. 240 Keith lead over a case full of Hercules 2400 out of these 4 inchers. Fun days but kids, don’t try this at home.
    I have a 629-4 in 6 inch but need a 4 inch too, I thought I found one at the 1500 but it was a Mountain Gun.
     

    drillsgt

    Grandmaster
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    108   0   0
    Nov 29, 2009
    9,638
    149
    Sioux Falls, SD
    I ordered a fixed sight from D&L and it's a pretty nice solid sight, they are designed for the newer guns that are pre-drilled and tapped and have a little bit deeper sight blade area but can work on older guns. It took a bit to get it to slide into the adj sight slot area and then it was over hanging maybe an 1/8 of an inch. I had to dress the rear of the sight blade to match the frame. I have a tiny bit more to go and final sand it out. I'll have to blast it and probably cerakote it when I get my Hi-Power refinished.

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    drillsgt

    Grandmaster
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    108   0   0
    Nov 29, 2009
    9,638
    149
    Sioux Falls, SD
    I got the D&L sight blended and John at Highsmith drilled and tapped it for me, quick turnaround too. It shoots to point of aim as well. I was in there today and he showed me a little J frame 442 he had put a tiny Novak sight on and a dovetailed front night sight so I may have him machine off the stainless ramp and put on a night sight and take it all the way.

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    hoglegs

    Marksman
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    6   0   0
    Jul 21, 2017
    140
    43
    NWI
    A 4" 686+ has been on my radar for a few years, I keep waiting for "normal prices" but... That bead blast looks very pro, what grit media did you use? Did you work up to a finish-grit or just hit it all at once? I've got a 629 I may give the same treatment if it'll come out as nice as that
     

    drillsgt

    Grandmaster
    Rating - 100%
    108   0   0
    Nov 29, 2009
    9,638
    149
    Sioux Falls, SD
    A 4" 686+ has been on my radar for a few years, I keep waiting for "normal prices" but... That bead blast looks very pro, what grit media did you use? Did you work up to a finish-grit or just hit it all at once? I've got a 629 I may give the same treatment if it'll come out as nice as that
    I use something called AloxGlass in a medium grit, it's a combination of aluminum oxide and glass beads available from Grainger. Chuck Rogers mentioned it on 1911forum so I tried it out, works pretty good. I set the pressure at the tank around 115-120 psi. It puts on like a darker grey finish as opposed to the light frosty look that would come with just glass beads.

     

    hoglegs

    Marksman
    Rating - 100%
    6   0   0
    Jul 21, 2017
    140
    43
    NWI
    I use something called AloxGlass in a medium grit, it's a combination of aluminum oxide and glass beads available from Grainger. Chuck Rogers mentioned it on 1911forum so I tried it out, works pretty good. I set the pressure at the tank around 115-120 psi. It puts on like a darker grey finish as opposed to the light frosty look that would come with just glass beads.

    Ahh makes sense with the Al2o3 in the mix & darker gray look. Maybe I'll do a trial run on an old neglected stainless roa before the s&w. Have you noticed any diff. in clean up with the increased (I assume) surface porosity?
     

    drillsgt

    Grandmaster
    Rating - 100%
    108   0   0
    Nov 29, 2009
    9,638
    149
    Sioux Falls, SD
    Ahh makes sense with the Al2o3 in the mix & darker gray look. Maybe I'll do a trial run on an old neglected stainless roa before the s&w. Have you noticed any diff. in clean up with the increased (I assume) surface porosity?
    It seems to leave a pretty smooth finish, not like say 120 gr aluminum oxide you'd use for cerakote prep.
     

    LtScott14

    Master
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    0   1   0
    Apr 13, 2008
    1,528
    83
    Porter County
    Awesome looking firearm, and sure you will get your enjoyment from owning it. I had an early model in 80's also. No issues and carried during a stint of Armed Security. Again, congrats!
     
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