Wood stove setup questions

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  • Dentoro

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    Noob with wood stove and have a few questions. It’s just an old potbelly stove. I’m ready for install but need a know a few finer points. Does RVT high temp go in the seams between the black pipes? I think not but just humor me. Also it says the outlet needs to be two foot above the roof. It is going in a steel agucultural building. Now my question is is two foot from where I bring it out or two feet above the high point of the roof line? If I out on the side of my barn that means I have about 12 foot of pipe above the roof to support and brace. Where if I stick it near the center line of the roof I can only use 1 three foot section of insulated pipe. At $75 a section that **** ain’t cheap! I’m inclined to think that it means two feet above where it pokes out and not two feet above the highest point of the roof. If you have any other tidbits of knowledge to share I would really appreciate hearing it all.

    Thanks,
    Bob
     

    shibumiseeker

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    near Bedford on a whole lot of land.
    Think of your house as a hot air balloon. The heated air really wants to rise out of the highest point. The flue should be the highest point otherwise it will be difficult to get it to draft properly. At best this means a smokey building. At worst it means carbon monoxide being sucked into the building from the dying embers.
     

    Timjoebillybob

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    Chimney pipe gets assembled opposite of most pipe. You want the male end pointed down and the female up, it's so creosote doesn't drip down into the crevice.
     

    Leadeye

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    Having the flue/stove on the east side of the building is helpful if you can do it as prevailing winds come from the west. Mine is on the east side and rarely has any problems with draft when starting up.

    When you start up a fire having some balled up newspaper near the exit from the firebox helps get the air moving up the pipe quickly and can keep from having cold air come down the chimney and push smoke out into the house.

    Wood heat is all we use during the winter, make sure you have dry wood.
     

    Timjoebillybob

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    When you start up a fire having some balled up newspaper near the exit from the firebox helps get the air moving up the pipe quickly and can keep from having cold air come down the chimney and push smoke out into the house.

    Wood heat is all we use during the winter, make sure you have dry wood.
    What we've been doing is using a propane torch to light it, turn the torch on and run it for 15 seconds or so above the wood to get some heat moving and then light the paper. It seems to be working pretty go so far.

    And to add to the dry wood part, make sure it is dry all the way through. Take one of the larger pieces if you have a moisture meter and split the chunk and test in the middle.
     

    kolob10

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    No RTV on pipe! Male end points down, female up as previously stated. An airtight woodstove is far more efficient - uses less wood and is easier to regulate heat. Use wood that has been dried under cover for a year or so for best results. Clean your chimney a couple times a season to reduce creosote buildup and prevent chimney fires. Burn good dry wood and run the stove hot occasionally to help reduce deposits in stove and pipe. Best wood for woodstove is white oak, hickory, red oak, other oaks, and other hardwoods. Each species has unique burning qualities. Some burn hot and quick, others slow. Some make good coals while others burn too quickly.
    My favorite for overnight fires is white, red oak and hickory. Morning fires I use Ash since it burns clean and a bit faster for a morning warmup. Just practice with different wood and you will learn by doing.
     

    churchmouse

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    What we've been doing is using a propane torch to light it, turn the torch on and run it for 15 seconds or so above the wood to get some heat moving and then light the paper. It seems to be working pretty go so far.

    And to add to the dry wood part, make sure it is dry all the way through. Take one of the larger pieces if you have a moisture meter and split the chunk and test in the middle.
    I have a routine that involves a propane torch. Lay the wood in over 2 small pieces running front to back and the space between filled with bark and other small kindling. Lay the larger pieces spanning to smaller front to back pieces. I have a wood chunk that perfectly holds the propane torch in place directed at the kindling below the bigger pieces.

    Pop off the torch and set it securely in the cradle and go get a cup of :coffee:
    When I get back to the stove the heat has set up a draft and it is pulling air across the fire that is burning nicely. Close the doors and set the vents. Takes just a few minutes cold stove to nice fire in the box. I use maybe 3 1 ponders of propane a season.
     

    Timjoebillybob

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    I have a routine that involves a propane torch. Lay the wood in over 2 small pieces running front to back and the space between filled with bark and other small kindling. Lay the larger pieces spanning to smaller front to back pieces. I have a wood chunk that perfectly holds the propane torch in place directed at the kindling below the bigger pieces.

    Pop off the torch and set it securely in the cradle and go get a cup of :coffee:
    When I get back to the stove the heat has set up a draft and it is pulling air across the fire that is burning nicely. Close the doors and set the vents. Takes just a few minutes cold stove to nice fire in the box. I use maybe 3 1 ponders of propane a season.
    That's similar to what we do, 2 smaller pieces front to back with some paper and small kindling in between, larger kindling across the 2, then a couple of small to medium chunks on top of those. Run the torch for just a short time then hit the paper. Leave the door cracked for about 5-10 minutes then close it up. Just started doing it that way a couple of weeks back.
     

    DadSmith

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    I suggest stainless and double wall pipe if it is going beside anything that can catch on fire. Stainless is more expensive put well worth it because it doesn't rust out in a few short years. Oh and 8" is way better than 6" i also clean my chimney out every 10-14 days. I heat with wood only.
     

    churchmouse

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    That's similar to what we do, 2 smaller pieces front to back with some paper and small kindling in between, larger kindling across the 2, then a couple of small to medium chunks on top of those. Run the torch for just a short time then hit the paper. Leave the door cracked for about 5-10 minutes then close it up. Just started doing it that way a couple of weeks back.
    Sounds about right. This morning It took me 10 minutes to take out the excess ash/set up the wood in the box/clean the glass inside and fire it up. Start to finish.
     

    Timjoebillybob

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    Sounds about right. This morning It took me 10 minutes to take out the excess ash/set up the wood in the box/clean the glass inside and fire it up. Start to finish.
    That reminds me, I need to clean out the ash and clean the glass today. We don't use ours for the majority of heat, mainly in the evenings/night as supplemental. It's sized to about be able to heat the house, but the placement is well less than optimal. It's in a single story add on, when the rest of the house is a two story.
     

    Dentoro

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    That seems odd, every stovepipe I've seen put in was male end down. LIke TJBB said, the creosote will run out around the seams otherwise.
    See page 5 of this manual. It is the same model I bought 2nd hand. I’m not arguing, I understand what you are saying, I even concur the point, but it is not what it is telling me.

     

    Leadeye

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    You're right, I can't argue with what's pictured, that's the first time I've seen an install like that. Maybe their pipe is different than what I'm used to, which goes back a fair amount of time.
     

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