Vinyl Plank Flooring Question

[wcd]

Try this.

I just got a similar one of these from my father. He bought it to shear laminate, but it wouldn't work well for that.

I have a couple LVP jobs coming up. I tested a couple cuts and it worked okay. No mess. Didn't make a clean cut but the cuts will be under trim anyhow. I really hope it works as well as I think it will.

Thanks that worked.

 

[wcd]

I bought a cheap table saw once and it had no provision for lining up the blade with the miter slot or the fence. The blade was permanently crooked which made for lots of binding and crappy cuts. I could have fixed it with cutting and welding the motor mounts but it wasn't worth it. I took it back and got a better one. So check the blade alignment right away on any cheap saw to make sure it is adjustable.

HD looks lIke they have a Ryobi which has a lot of good reviews appears to have a adjustable side gate. My wife has payed out the floor on graph paper and calculated the cuts. Looks like the hardest part will be moving evert thing.

 

[Drewski]

I recently completed a big PVP job. I used an inexpensive multi tool for the notches but a utility knife, drywall square and pencil for everything else, whether “rips” or “cross cuts.” Just score the plank a couple times, then put the pencil under where the score came off the plank and push down on both sides. Worked every time for me, zero wasted pieces. Just remember to measure twice.

 

[Jeepster48439]

If you have HVAC floor registers in your kitchen, I have found the best way is to cut them afterwards using a laminate trim bit in a router.

 

[Rookie]

Try this.

I just got a similar one of these from my father. He bought it to shear laminate, but it wouldn't work well for that.

I have a couple LVP jobs coming up. I tested a couple cuts and it worked okay. No mess. Didn't make a clean cut but the cuts will be under trim anyhow. I really hope it works as well as I think it will.

The nicest thing about it is that it's very portable. You just move it along with you as you're laying tile. With a table saw, you're increasing the amount of time getting up, cutting, going back, getting back down, and laying the tile. I'm to old and fat for all that extra work.

 

[Rookie]

I recently completed a big PVP job. I used an inexpensive multi tool for the notches but a utility knife, drywall square and pencil for everything else, whether “rips” or “cross cuts.” Just score the plank a couple times, then put the pencil under where the score came off the plank and push down on both sides. Worked every time for me, zero wasted pieces. Just remember to measure twice.

Not really necessary to measure. Simply place the tile against the set piece. Make sure it's backwards from how it will be installed (flip it 180 degrees) and mark where it over laps the installed piece. Cut and install...

 

[Rookie]

If you have HVAC floor registers in your kitchen, I have found the best way is to cut them afterwards using a laminate trim bit in a router.

The only downside is that you're dropping all the cuttings into the duct work. I'm not saying it's a bad thing, I just prefer not to do that...

 

[Rookie]

Another thing I prefer to do is rip some 1/4 inch underlayment and use it as a spacer along the starting edge. It works much better than the wedge spacers. I'll tack them into place along the whole side and remove them when the floor is done.

 

[Drewski]

Not really necessary to measure.

lol

Nine years as a glazier taught some harsh lessons about nonchalant measuring; I never go without, regardless of the material.

A good tape measure is a friend.

 

[Jeepster48439]

The only downside is that you're dropping all the cuttings into the duct work. I'm not saying it's a bad thing, I just prefer not to do that...

Dropping cuttings is a down side. I did two things when I cut mine. I ran the blower on the furnace to pressurize the duct and used a shop vac suck cuttings while running the router. It did reduce the mess, but it did make a mess. However, I thought it to be quicker and more accurate than cutting with a jigsaw.

 

[Jeepster48439]

Another thing I prefer to do is rip some 1/4 inch underlayment and use it as a spacer along the starting edge. It works much better than the wedge spacers. I'll tack them into place along the whole side and remove them when the floor is done.

The wedges are a pain.

 

[dudley0]

Another thing I prefer to do is rip some 1/4 inch underlayment and use it as a spacer along the starting edge. It works much better than the wedge spacers. I'll tack them into place along the whole side and remove them when the floor is done.

Last two projects I used big paint sticks. They were the right thickness and I hardly ever use them to stir.

On a big project I bet the strips of luan would be nicer.

 

[Rookie]

My last project was 4,000 square feet with multiple rooms off of a hallway. I did it with no transition pieces. Laying tile backwards is a pain, but it looked a lot better than what it would have using transition pieces in every door. The underlayment along the edges was very helpful.

 

[Rookie]

Amazon product ASIN B07TYGKHHS
Another necessary tool. Very helpful for cutting door jambs so the tile slides under. Simply put a scap piece of tile against the jamb, put the blade on the tile, and use it as a guide to cut the jamb. The tile will slide under perfectly and make a good, finished look.

 

[dudley0]

My last project was 4,000 square feet with multiple rooms off of a hallway. I did it with no transition pieces. Laying tile backwards is a pain, but it looked a lot better than what it would have using transition pieces in every door. The underlayment along the edges was very helpful.

First (and last) time I put bamboo down we did the entire downstairs with no transition strips. One bedroom had to be done backwards and yes it was a pain.

Got the house on the market and decided to go in to wipe up the foot prints after showing. Discovered that the bamboo was not happy with the extremely long run in the open living room thru kitchen. It buckled in the middle. Raised about three inches. Went back in, cut it and put a transition strip in. Hated to do it, but had to. Biggest pain was that it was on a slab, so cutting was fun.

 

[dudley0]

Amazon product ASIN B07TYGKHHS
Another necessary tool. Very helpful for cutting door jambs so the tile slides under. Simply put a scap piece of tile against the jamb, put the blade on the tile, and use it as a guide to cut the jamb. The tile will slide under perfectly and make a good, finished look.

I love my oscillating tool! I use it for so many things from flooring to drywall to plumbing to well, just about anything.

First one I bought was a corded dremel brand. Burned two of them up. Bought a dewalt corded which I still have somewhere. Now I have two of the brushless 20v dewalts. I keep one in my truck all the time. I call it my Not Dremel.

Man we could start a thread just listing the uses for these things. It's right up there with sliced bread.

 

[littletommy]

Amazon product ASIN B07TYGKHHS
Another necessary tool. Very helpful for cutting door jambs so the tile slides under. Simply put a scap piece of tile against the jamb, put the blade on the tile, and use it as a guide to cut the jamb. The tile will slide under perfectly and make a good, finished look.

I had never used one of those until a few years ago, now I own one! Extremely handy for lots of projects. Don’t know how I got by without one.

 

[patience0830]

I bought a cheap table saw once and it had no provision for lining up the blade with the miter slot or the fence. The blade was permanently crooked which made for lots of binding and crappy cuts. I could have fixed it with cutting and welding the motor mounts but it wasn't worth it. I took it back and got a better one. So check the blade alignment right away on any cheap saw to make sure it is adjustable.

Table unscrews on the two I have and can be adjusted to square ad perpendicular to the blade and fence.