The Official Hot Rod Thread - Part 4: Burnouts for Distance

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  • Mounty09

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    Added a little timing to the 351w tonight. My friend who had been helping me had the timing set really low, like 28 degrees. I keep hearing most SBF guys run max at 36 degrees. I changed the timing map and it now is maxing at 36.5 degrees. The car did seem to pick up a decent amount of power. I would like to get to the track or borrow a dragy to see how much it picked up. The first picture is with 28 degrees max and the 2nd is with 36.5. After I got home and pulled the plugs to look I did take a degree out. I am new to all of this so trying to learn. Hoping that 1 degree will move that timing mark up a little bit.
     

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    thunderchicken

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    Added a little timing to the 351w tonight. My friend who had been helping me had the timing set really low, like 28 degrees. I keep hearing most SBF guys run max at 36 degrees. I changed the timing map and it now is maxing at 36.5 degrees. The car did seem to pick up a decent amount of power. I would like to get to the track or borrow a dragy to see how much it picked up. The first picture is with 28 degrees max and the 2nd is with 36.5. After I got home and pulled the plugs to look I did take a degree out. I am new to all of this so trying to learn. Hoping that 1 degree will move that timing mark up a little bit.
    28* is definitely on the weak side especially if it's being run NA.
    34-36* is probably a good place to be on timing. Hate to say it but there's way too much idle time on those plugs to give any real indication how it burns under load.
    The proper way to read plugs is to make a pass and shut it off clean. Don't start it again until you pull the plugs. My advice would be have a set of race plugs (with very minimal idling) and a separate set to cruise to and from the track on.
    The cleaner plug looks pretty good but if that's after driving it all the way home, it's been asked to live under different conditions and isn't optimal for reading
     

    Mounty09

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    28* is definitely on the weak side especially if it's being run NA.
    34-36* is probably a good place to be on timing. Hate to say it but there's way too much idle time on those plugs to give any real indication how it burns under load.
    The proper way to read plugs is to make a pass and shut it off clean. Don't start it again until you pull the plugs. My advice would be have a set of race plugs (with very minimal idling) and a separate set to cruise to and from the track on.
    The cleaner plug looks pretty good but if that's after driving it all the way home, it's been asked to live under different conditions and isn't optimal for reading
    Thank you for your insight, I truly appreciate it.

    The clean plug is from over a year ago. The dirty plug is the same set. So it has about 10 passes on it and lots of street driving. Having a set of race plugs and street plugs is a good idea. I could maybe run two different heat ranges then? I don't plan on spraying on the street.

    Speaking of heat ranges, these plugs are ngk BR7EF. Does that sound like a good plug to run?

    I still haven't sprayed the car. I need to fill the bottle and then everything should be ready. Just nervous...
     

    thunderchicken

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    Thank you for your insight, I truly appreciate it.

    The clean plug is from over a year ago. The dirty plug is the same set. So it has about 10 passes on it and lots of street driving. Having a set of race plugs and street plugs is a good idea. I could maybe run two different heat ranges then? I don't plan on spraying on the street.

    Speaking of heat ranges, these plugs are ngk BR7EF. Does that sound like a good plug to run?

    I still haven't sprayed the car. I need to fill the bottle and then everything should be ready. Just nervous...
    Yeah you need to get race plugs and street plugs.
    Since you plan to run spray, you are going to want a colder plug and will need to retard timing too. NGK makes fantastic spark plugs and is what we've run for 19yrs. For your specific set up, I would have to do some research to determine if that's the right plug.
    How much compression? How much spray? What fuel are you using?
    On spray we run an NGK #11 plug. Running NA we run an NGK #9 plug.

    I forget is the car fuel injected or carb? You really need to be able to accurately check and adjust fuel pressure. And bottle pressure needs to be consistent before the run until you are comfortable using bottle pressure to tweak the tune.
     

    femurphy77

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    I don't care WHAT all ya'll think; I want this!


    1665692050859.png

    Fun, cheap and unique.
     

    thunderchicken

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    jeffsqartan

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    jeffsqartan

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    Well. My plans have, shocker, changed immensely. I thought the 351w was going into my convertible and getting setup with a turbo.
    This is a long story, but I decided against that and now I'm fixing my 302.

    I pulled the pan off and found multiple pieces of thrust bearing inside of my pickup tube, toward the back. If anyone remembers, the car randomly would lose oil pressure under high rpm and acceleration, but not high rpm sitting still. Now I understand why.

    When the main cap came off, there were still small pieces of thrust bearing there in between. The crank journal looks completely fine. The crank weight, on the other hand, looks and feels like a brake rotor that's lived a hard life.

    Quinlinn is going to take care of the crank and some bearings for me. I'll hopefully be able to slap it all back together and have a running, driving 302 with very little expense.

    I sent the pictures to one of the guys I autocross with. His response, "how the hell did it live that long??" I concur. About 5 years, 30k miles, and most of them were very hard miles. Quite surprising. 20221006_235800.jpg 20221009_160511.jpg 20221009_161312.jpg 20221009_161334.jpg 20221009_161406.jpg
     

    Jaybird1980

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    Well. My plans have, shocker, changed immensely. I thought the 351w was going into my convertible and getting setup with a turbo.
    This is a long story, but I decided against that and now I'm fixing my 302.

    I pulled the pan off and found multiple pieces of thrust bearing inside of my pickup tube, toward the back. If anyone remembers, the car randomly would lose oil pressure under high rpm and acceleration, but not high rpm sitting still. Now I understand why.

    When the main cap came off, there were still small pieces of thrust bearing there in between. The crank journal looks completely fine. The crank weight, on the other hand, looks and feels like a brake rotor that's lived a hard life.

    Quinlinn is going to take care of the crank and some bearings for me. I'll hopefully be able to slap it all back together and have a running, driving 302 with very little expense.

    I sent the pictures to one of the guys I autocross with. His response, "how the hell did it live that long??" I concur. About 5 years, 30k miles, and most of them were very hard miles. Quite surprising. View attachment 230141 View attachment 230142 View attachment 230143 View attachment 230144 View attachment 230146
    That's pretty impressive. What time frame during that 5 years did that vibration start?
     

    jeffsqartan

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    model1994

    quick draw mcgraw
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    1969 fairlane 500 i6 250 auto. daily driven 2013-2014 until the rusty unibody became too dangerous and I parked it.
     

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    Leo

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    I don't care WHAT all ya'll think; I want this!


    View attachment 230096

    Fun, cheap and unique.
    In the 70's Pinto's used to make pretty good showing in SCCA Slalom and Gymkahana events. Tighten the suspension and put on some sticky tires and you can have a load of fun and never go over 45mph. When you are done, drive it to the restaurant and then home without spending your kids college money every weekend. Lots of ways to have some fun.
     
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