Suppressor cleaning solvents

[T-DOGG]

What's everyone using for cleaning baffles in suppressors, specifically stainless steel?

I've been using Simple Green diluted with water in an ultrasonic cleaner for stainless steel baffles in my 22 and 45 cans. Letting them soak overnight, heat, soak, repeat. Still requiring a lot of elbow grease to get them clean. The 22 can is especially painful and time consuming to clean. I know that's the nature of the beast with 22, but hoping someone has some helpful tips and tricks.

I also have a new Tirant 9M that has aluminum baffles. It doesn't need cleaned yet, but will someday. Tips/advice welcome on that as well.

Thanks in advance

 

[M1CARBINE]

I have good luck with slp 2000 looks like pink antifreeze, was designed for cleaning m16 bolt carriers to remove carbon. Best part it is water soluble.

 

[efd1295]

My AAC manual says to use acetone. Soak it overnight, then let it drain threaded end up.

 

[mike4]

I've seen the following quote posted online but have never tracked down an original source document, but this is consistent with hobbyists in multiple different domains describing serious damage to finishes, coatings, and metal parts for years from Simple Green. Just want to warn people since it was mentioned, to approach with caution given the materials used in many suppressors and firearms.

Some of those discussions will go on to say, if you dilute or limit exposure time it's less of a worry. Slowing a corrosion process or limiting the time that it's allowed to act does not really comfort me. I'd advise being very careful what materials you expose to it, and flush extensively if those parts go back into contact with something like an aluminum outer tube on a 22LR can.

Of course many solvents, etc. can be a problem if used incorrectly, applied to the wrong items, if contaminated (e.g brake fluid); but given the dollar value of equipment I have that could be affected and being aware of these issues for 20+ years, I don't have Simple Green on the property.

"This product has been through Department of Defense testing and was determined to be highly corrosive on aircraft aluminum and also a catalyst for Hydrogen Embrittlement in high strength aircraft alloys."

 

[chezuki]

I use diluted Krud Kutter in my ultrasonic. If my .22 can gets really leaded up, I put the battles in a glass jar of hoppes and set the whole thing in the ultrasonic.

 

[T-DOGG]

I use diluted Krud Kutter in my ultrasonic. If my .22 can gets really leaded up, I put the battles in a glass jar of hoppes and set the whole thing in the ultrasonic.

I wondered if soaking them in Hoppes was a good option.

 

[T-DOGG]

I had some better success this last time with scrubbing first, then using the ultrasonic/Simple Green afterwards. Let em soak overnight. Then turn the ultrasonic with heat on again in the morning. Then clean them later in the day. About 24 hours soaking if I had to guess.

 

[chezuki]

I wondered if soaking them in Hoppes was a good option.

Worked well for me. I do have to remind myself sometimes “clean” doesn’t have to mean “shiny and new looking” when it comes to suppressor baffles. As long as they fit nicely in the tube they’re good to go. I tend to scrub them more than needed.

 

[Biggredchev]

I run mine through the ultrasonic with purple mean green and water then throw them in the wet tumbler with polishing media then another trip through the ultrasonic.

 

[T-DOGG]

Worked well for me. I do have to remind myself sometimes “clean” doesn’t have to mean “shiny and new looking” when it comes to suppressor baffles. As long as they fit nicely in the tube they’re good to go. I tend to scrub them more than needed.

View attachment 124037

I try to remind myself the same thing, but I can't help myself. Small 22 baffles are tedious to scrub by hand.

 

[Indyplinkster]

I have never cleaned my rimfire or center fire suppressors. Is it mandatory?

 

[1mil-high]

While Kano Kroil is marketed as a penetrating oil, it works wonders on cutting through carbon build-up on AR BCGs as well as suppressor parts.

 

[STFU]

I have never cleaned my rimfire or center fire suppressors. Is it mandatory?

Centerfire is less of an issue, especially if you are shooting clean burning ammo (vs caustic stuff from overseas mfg).

As for rimfire, mine gets cleaned every after every outing of 500+ rounds. .22 ammo is dirty stuff (compared to centerfire) regardless of who makes it.

 

[Angrysauce]

"The Dip"
It's the way to clean steel. Wear gloves, rinse well, and dispose of it properly. The remnants from cleaning are not exactly the secret to a long and healthy life.
I'm being intentionally vague. If you're gonna do it, read a little bit and understand what your dealing with.

 

[Goodcat]

I have a very well used TiRant 9mm suppressor. The “dip” works well, but is dangerous to health. The best method I’ve found is wet tumbling the baffles with stainless steel pins. It does not round out the aluminum edges of the baffles like the internet says. Works wonders.

Otherwise, wire brush and the hours of patience.

What's everyone using for cleaning baffles in suppressors, specifically stainless steel?

I've been using Simple Green diluted with water in an ultrasonic cleaner for stainless steel baffles in my 22 and 45 cans. Letting them soak overnight, heat, soak, repeat. Still requiring a lot of elbow grease to get them clean. The 22 can is especially painful and time consuming to clean. I know that's the nature of the beast with 22, but hoping someone has some helpful tips and tricks.

I also have a new Tirant 9M that has aluminum baffles. It doesn't need cleaned yet, but will someday. Tips/advice welcome on that as well.

Thanks in advance