Suppressor alignment

[Mark-DuCo]

When I bought my Dead Air mask and put it on my savage, I simply screwed it on and started enjoying.

Well now I have a direct thread can coming for a 6.5 Grendel AR and a YHM turbo T2 with a QD mount for a 5.56 AR. It should be as simple as unscrewing the flash hider and installing the direct thread suppressor right?

What about the quick detach mount with the Turbo T2? I assume its the same procedure with no shims needed.

Do most of you worry about checking alignment on a factory threaded barrel?

 

[BR8818]

Yeah just take off the flash hider and thread on the direct thread. The YHM T2 muzzle device only needs shims if your wanting or needing to time it. I just look down the bore to check alignment.

 

[Lpherr]

Yeah just take off the flash hider and thread on the direct thread. The YHM T2 muzzle device only needs shims if your wanting or needing to time it. I just look down the bore to check alignment.

Yep, it looks aligned, and loaded.

 

[amafrank]

Since it is an AR there is a good chance the threaded portion is way too long and it doesn't have a thread relief. You may need to add a spacer to insure the can sits tight against the shoulder. Often with AR's the can will hit the last thread and stop with a gap between the can and the shoulder on the barrel. It is a simple thing to check though...screw the can on and look for the gap using a flashlight behind the barrel if its really close. I don't know why the AR barrel makers can't make standard threaded barrels....

Frank

 

[Lpherr]

Since it is an AR there is a good chance the threaded portion is way too long and it doesn't have a thread relief. You may need to add a spacer to insure the can sits tight against the shoulder. Often with AR's the can will hit the last thread and stop with a gap between the can and the shoulder on the barrel. It is a simple thing to check though...screw the can on and look for the gap using a flashlight behind the barrel if its really close. I don't know why the AR barrel makers can't make standard threaded barrels....

Frank

I have no idea, but could the suppressor be chamfered to set back against the shoulder?

 

[amafrank]

You can cut a chamfer on the can but its a really bad idea. Mod the barrel, not the can. Frequently cutting the chamfer on the can means you can't use it on smaller diameter barrels because the chamfer overrides the shoulder on the barrel. The whole point is to butt the back of the suppressor up against the shoulder on the barrel to give it a good solid support and keep it centered. The smaller the diameter of the barrel, the less support and the more likely the can will tip enough to ding baffles.
You can buy spacers that are cut specifically to take care of this problem. Stick on on the barrel and put the flash hider back on it when you're not using the can. That keeps you from losing it.....

Frank

 

[NyleRN]

Since it is an AR there is a good chance the threaded portion is way too long and it doesn't have a thread relief. You may need to add a spacer to insure the can sits tight against the shoulder. Often with AR's the can will hit the last thread and stop with a gap between the can and the shoulder on the barrel. It is a simple thing to check though...screw the can on and look for the gap using a flashlight behind the barrel if its really close. I don't know why the AR barrel makers can't make standard threaded barrels....

Frank

I've never heard or read of anyone having this issue with direct thread cans. If what your saying is true then the barrel muzzle is indexing off the blast baffle. I don't know of any cans that have that short of a blast chamber.

ETA: If you're talking about 22lr ARs then yes, specifically the M&P 15-22 does have too long of threads usually and requires the spacer. But never heard of an issue with centerfire rifle calibers such as 5.56 on up

 

[sloppyjoe]

I've never heard or read of anyone having this issue with direct thread cans. If what your saying is true then the barrel muzzle is indexing off the blast baffle. I don't know of any cans that have that short of a blast chamber.

ETA: If you're talking about 22lr ARs then yes, specifically the M&P 15-22 does have too long of threads usually and requires the spacer. But never heard of an issue with centerfire rifle calibers such as 5.56 on up

I agree with what you said. There are two different specifications for 1/2x28 threads - one for rimfire and one for centerfire. If you try to use a rimfire can on a 5.56 barrel with a drop in 22lr conversion, then you may need a spacer. DO NOT use a crush washer as a spacer. Use a spacer specifically designed for silencers. I think Dead Air sells one. The threads on your YHM can should be cut for centerfire length and should not bottom out before the shoulder. Just remove the factory FH AND the crush washer and thread on your YHM until it hits the shoulder. Then snug it up. You will have to watch for the silencer unthreading during firing if you dont use a tool to tighten it to the barrel. This is where QD systems with a taper have an advantage - you can hand tighten and remove by hand without the silencer unthreading itself during firing.