If you ordered a b'tail from Harrison I doubt it will work on that, the top of those tangs have quite a downward slope, you might have to at the very least use an S&A .220 radius, I have the jig if you need it, keep the Harrison for a later project. Here's some more info:
[h=5]Springfield[/h][FONT="]There is a lot of misinformation circulating about beavertail installations on Springfield pistols. First, there are two different frames to consider: the Mil-Spec / WW II frames with original style frame tangs and "Loaded" pistols that come with a factory beavertail.[/FONT]
[FONT="]Loaded model frames are cut for Wilson pattern beavertails and are usually over cut as they come from the factory. To get a nice tight joint, I usually weld the radius and re-fit the stock beavertail or a Wilson. A Group 1 beavertail can be fit, but will require a good bit of weld build up.[/FONT]
[FONT="]Early Loaded model frames are cut for Wilson pattern beavertails and later ones are cut for a .220” radius. Both are usually over cut as they come from the factory. To get a nice tight joint, I usually weld up the frame tang radii and re-fit either the stock beavertail or an S&A. A Group 1 beavertail can be fit, but will require a good bit of weld build up.[/FONT]
[FONT="]All factory frames not supplied with a beavertail can be fitted with a S&A .220” radius beavertail which will give a proper fit with little likelihood of needing any welding, other than maybe between the tangs to center the beavertail. A Group 1 beavertail can be fit, but will require welding to be done on the tops of the frame tangs, to be able to shape to a top register fit.[/FONT]
