Snowblower Engine Repair Question - Won't Start

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  • Jaybird1980

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    I think it's a Briggs & Stratton engine from all the parts stuff I have been looking at.

    I'm in Munster. I'll give the SF a try, see what happens and go from there.

    I just picked up a new Toro last month and this is now a backup machine so it's not as urgent as if it were my primary machine. It's become a personal challenge because I hate paying $100/hr shop rate for something I could probably do myself if I had some knowledge. I always wanted to learn to fix small engines and this is a good opportunity.
    Yeah I thought about it afterwards and remembered Briggs was doing this stuff also. Get a can and soak it in some cleaner for a couple of days and that may clean up the passages enough.
     

    Leadeye

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    Years ago I remember being at a boat ramp and watching a guy remove his engine cover, breather and filter and then get a can of starting fluid. He busily sprayed the carburetor both inside and out quite liberally, much like you do with Gumout to clean it. He plugged in his kill switch and then started to turn the engine over before I stopped him and mentioned that he really should let the ether evaporate before setting his boat on fire. He told me he had seen other people start boats this way. I glanced at his family on the shore waiting and just continued to be pleasant for a minute, even after the snarky comment. He fired the boat up which back fired and set the few remaining ether fumes into a brief, but illuminating, halo around his engine compartment. He was a little shocked but reinstalled the breather and closed up the now running engine. Maybe he learned something that day, or maybe not, but humiliating him in front of his family was a no go, as was watching him set his boat on fire.;)
     

    churchmouse

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    Years ago I remember being at a boat ramp and watching a guy remove his engine cover, breather and filter and then get a can of starting fluid. He busily sprayed the carburetor both inside and out quite liberally, much like you do with Gumout to clean it. He plugged in his kill switch and then started to turn the engine over before I stopped him and mentioned that he really should let the ether evaporate before setting his boat on fire. He told me he had seen other people start boats this way. I glanced at his family on the shore waiting and just continued to be pleasant for a minute, even after the snarky comment. He fired the boat up which back fired and set the few remaining ether fumes into a brief, but illuminating, halo around his engine compartment. He was a little shocked but reinstalled the breather and closed up the now running engine. Maybe he learned something that day, or maybe not, but humiliating him in front of his family was a no go, as was watching him set his boat on fire.;)
    I/we have used WD-40 in that fashion on a season 1st start up especially on a 2 cycle boat engine. Always worked for us.
    My buddy actually popped a piston in the Johnson 70 on his bass boat using ether way to liberally. He knew better as he is/was an Indy car mechanic but pushing boundary's.....go figure.

    I rebuilt the engine for him. He was humbled.
     

    DoggyDaddy

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    I/we have used WD-40 in that fashion on a season 1st start up especially on a 2 cycle boat engine. Always worked for us.
    My buddy actually popped a piston in the Johnson 70 on his bass boat using ether way to liberally. He knew better as he is/was an Indy car mechanic but pushing boundary's.....go figure.

    I rebuilt the engine for him. He was humbled.
    I had heard that you have to be really careful with both the starting fluid and carb cleaner when using it on a 2-cycle because basically you're taking away the lube that the oil in the gas mix provides the engine. It was a boat motor mechanic that told me that, so I do try and be very careful about using either one.
     

    Bill2905

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    While reading labels on various cans of starting fluid today at Meijer, I noticed that they all tout having a lubricant to help protect the top end. I'll go easy on the stuff.
     

    Jaybird1980

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    I had heard that you have to be really careful with both the starting fluid and carb cleaner when using it on a 2-cycle because basically you're taking away the lube that the oil in the gas mix provides the engine. It was a boat motor mechanic that told me that, so I do try and be very careful about using either one.
    Yes this is true. You don't want to do a boatload. A Lil bump to get her to start won't wash down the cylinder though.

    Just don't try to sit there and keep it running with SF

    They do also make a 2 stroke specific SF. ( Not sure if they still do, and it was expensive)
     

    ***Ironhead***

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    Lots of good advice has been given ........another possibility could be a clogged or restricted exhaust port . ( carbon fouled )
    Have had this issue myself and experienced similar problems as yours ,.
    Could explain why it seemed progressively worse as the years past .
    This was my problem on a small echo chainsaw
     

    DoggyDaddy

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    Yes this is true. You don't want to do a boatload. A Lil bump to get her to start won't wash down the cylinder though.

    Just don't try to sit there and keep it running with SF

    They do also make a 2 stroke specific SF. ( Not sure if they still do, and it was expensive)
    Actually, in my case it was the carb cleaner. Motor had been running rough and I squirted some cleaner in while running. Didn't do any damage thankfully, but that's when the mechanic told me I could have.
     

    DoggyDaddy

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    Actually, in my case it was the carb cleaner. Motor had been running rough and I squirted some cleaner in while running. Didn't do any damage thankfully, but that's when the mechanic told me I could have.
    And also in my case it turned out to be a fuel pump diaphragm issue and not the carb at all. :ugh: I don't think youtube was even a thing back then, so it was live and learn! :):
     

    Cameramonkey

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    Actually, in my case it was the carb cleaner. Motor had been running rough and I squirted some cleaner in while running. Didn't do any damage thankfully, but that's when the mechanic told me I could have.
    I dont see it being an issue for a couple strokes with reduced oil. Dont sweat it.
     

    Bill2905

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    I got it running with starter fluid. After a lot of pulling, it started to pop and finally took off after a lot more pulling. The label on the can of starter fluid says it prevents starter wear but let me tell you, I got pretty worn out. Seemed to run like its' old self once it warmed up.

    We'll see if this exercise cleared the carb blockage and try to start it cold again tomorrow but I'll probably get a new carb either way.
     

    Bill2905

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    Step up and Buy OEM parts. They fit with no adjusting of this and that and are made better as has been our experience. You may pay $40 over the $20 but cheap out is not the answer.. Most often something is different on the knock offs on ebay.

    These are my carb choices with approximate prices

    Briggs & Stratton OEM = $125

    Stens Aftermarket = $50

    eBay/Amazon knockoffs = $20

    Any thoughts on the Stens? B&S OEM is pretty salty.
     

    Jaybird1980

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    These are my carb choices with approximate prices

    Briggs & Stratton OEM = $125

    Stens Aftermarket = $50

    eBay/Amazon knockoffs = $20

    Any thoughts on the Stens? B&S OEM is pretty salty.
    If I had to pick from that list it would be Stens.

    Since it's a backup machine, you should try soaking it in some simple green for a few days.
     

    churchmouse

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    These are my carb choices with approximate prices

    Briggs & Stratton OEM = $125

    Stens Aftermarket = $50

    eBay/Amazon knockoffs = $20

    Any thoughts on the Stens? B&S OEM is pretty salty.
    Wow I bought a Briggs OEM recently for $55 and yes that freaking salty but you may have something not all that common either.

    Do the Stens in this situation I guess.
     

    Bill2905

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    Wow I bought a Briggs OEM recently for $55 and yes that freaking salty but you may have something not all that common either.

    Do the Stens in this situation I guess.
    I found a lot of $55 Briggs carburetors in my search but this one is higher, probably because it is an older model and no longer produced in large quantities.
     
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