Snowblower Engine Repair Question - Won't Start

[Jaybird1980]

@55fairlane basically ran down all the main issues.

What carb is on it, Walbro, Zama?

Does it still start on pull 3-4? Or is it now longer?

What does disassembled and cleaned carb mean? How far did you take it down. Sounds like the low speed circuit could be dirty. It may need a welch plug removed to clean depending on the carb, at the least it will be hidden behind a plastic plug.

Metering lever adjusted?

 

[Bill2905]

@55fairlane basically ran down all the main issues.

What carb is on it, Walbro, Zama?

Does it still start on pull 3-4? Or is it now longer?

What does disassembled and cleaned carb mean? How far did you take it down. Sounds like the low speed circuit could be dirty. It may need a welch plug removed to clean depending on the carb, at the least it will be hidden behind a plastic plug.

Metering lever adjusted?

Not sure of the manufacturer. I saw it stamped on the side but can't recall.

It does not start at all.

I removed only the main fuel tube and orifice and cleaned them. All of the little holes were clear even before cleaning. I thoroughly sprayed out the rest of the unit as best I could and blew it dry. I wasn't feeling too adventurous with further disassembly. I'm not sure what was left to take apart beyond the float and needle valve. I didn't see any plastic plugs which could be hiding other jets. There is no plastic on this carb other than the exterior choke and throttle linkages.

This is a non adjustable carburetor and appears to be simpler than other carbs I have studied.

If it fires with starting fluid, I'm gonna order a new carb.

 

[Goodfoot]

Might see if it will start using a shot of starting fluid. If so it could be a leak in fuel system or bad gas.

 

[Jaybird1980]

Not sure of the manufacturer. I saw it stamped on the side but can't recall.

It does not start at all.

I removed only the main fuel tube and orifice and cleaned them. All of the little holes were clear even before cleaning. I thoroughly sprayed out the rest of the unit as best I could and blew it dry. I wasn't feeling too adventurous with further disassembly. I'm not sure what was left to take apart beyond the float and needle valve. I didn't see any plastic plugs which could be hiding other jets. There is no plastic on this carb other than the exterior choke and throttle linkages.

This is a non adjustable carburetor and appears to be simpler than other carbs I have studied.

If it fires with starting fluid, I'm gonna order a new carb.

Yeah the carbs of that era are non adjustable. Which means they have jets hidden under plastic caps or holes drilled in the body and hidden under welch plugs. The fact that it doesn't start at all seems to be no spark or no fuel. (Assuming you have sufficient compression).

Hit it with some brake clean or starting fluid, if that works it's probably a bad diaphragm, carb needs rebuilt. (Stick with your oem carb vs the cheap aftermarket)

If it doesn't start, probably a vaccum leak.

 

[churchmouse]

Not sure of the manufacturer. I saw it stamped on the side but can't recall.

It does not start at all.

I removed only the main fuel tube and orifice and cleaned them. All of the little holes were clear even before cleaning. I thoroughly sprayed out the rest of the unit as best I could and blew it dry. I wasn't feeling too adventurous with further disassembly. I'm not sure what was left to take apart beyond the float and needle valve. I didn't see any plastic plugs which could be hiding other jets. There is no plastic on this carb other than the exterior choke and throttle linkages.

This is a non adjustable carburetor and appears to be simpler than other carbs I have studied.

If it fires with starting fluid, I'm gonna order a new carb.

It is good to keep a can of starting fluid on the shelf.

 

[churchmouse]

Yeah the carbs of that era are non adjustable. Which means they have jets hidden under plastic caps or holes drilled in the body and hidden under welch plugs. The fact that it doesn't start at all seems to be no spark or no fuel. (Assuming you have sufficient compression).

Hit it with some brake clean or starting fluid, if that works it's probably a bad diaphragm, carb needs rebuilt. (Stick with your oem carb vs the cheap aftermarket)

If it doesn't start, probably a vaccum leak.

He said it popped off on the starting fluid.
I agree. Stay away from the cheap EBay pieces. They are not OEM specific. It may bolt on but most times something has to be changed/modified to work on your engine.
An OEM piece is more money but less work.

 

[Leadeye]

Starting fluid is one of those "must have" things.

 

[Jaybird1980]

He said it popped off on the starting fluid.
I agree. Stay away from the cheap EBay pieces. They are not OEM specific. It may bolt on but most times something has to be changed/modified to work on your engine.
An OEM piece is more money but less work.

Oh I must have missed that he already tried SF.

It's cheapest to rebuild the OEM carb he already has if he has the ability. They're not complicated and plenty of videos to help him out.

 

[churchmouse]

Oh I must have missed that he already tried SF.

It's cheapest to rebuild the OEM carb he already has if he has the ability. They're not complicated and plenty of videos to help him out.

True but many get anxious or don’t have the skills/patience to do this task. What is a simple procedure for me or you is often an over whelming task for others. If it is just buy the carb as a unit from an OEM stocking supplier.
If you feel it is doable then yes get the kit.
If it doesn’t have a diaphragm it can most likely just be cleaned up and the jets clears of the crap.

 

[tackdriver]

Lots of good directions to go here. I just want to give a +1 on trying different, non ethanol, gas.

I got an old Johnson 2 stroke outboard motor. These things are simple but very reliable. First season it ran great. Second season it wouldn't start, and when it did, wouldn't keep running well. Once it left me stranded with an worn out arm and blistered fingers. I had fresh gas, just purchased the day before.

I tried all the expensive/difficult things first - carb, coils, plugs... still no love! The design is so simple, it had to work...but didn't.

I thought the issue with the ethanol was just that it ate up the lines and seals, but since these were new, I blew that off. Finally, I went to a station that sold non-ethanol from one pump. BANG! Started right up, and ran great. Later I learned about the ethanol absorbing significant water and trapping it n the gas. I've heard that the problem was even worse with older engines that ran on 16:1 - 32:1 (my outboard). I also had a trimmer, leaf blower, and chainsaw that were a PITA at times.

Now I buy 5 gallons of the non ethanol, and throw a little stabilizer right away. ALL of the 2 strokes run much better. Even my new 4 stoke lawnmower starts easier. Even if this isn't your problem, it might be worth a gallon to find out, or just switch to it to avoid the nest problem.

Best of luck straightening it out - and thanks for reminding me to get my snowblower out and ready!

 

[Jaybird1980]

True but many get anxious or don’t have the skills/patience to do this task. What is a simple procedure for me or you is often an over whelming task for others. If it is just buy the carb as a unit from an OEM stocking supplier.
If you feel it is doable then yes get the kit.
If it doesn’t have a diaphragm it can most likely just be cleaned up and the jets clears of the crap.

So I must have also missed that it doesn't have a diaphragm, which makes it a float carb. So now I'm back to low speed circuit having a obstruction, or bad gasket.

 

[stocknup]

Lots of good advice has been given ........another possibility could be a clogged or restricted exhaust port . ( carbon fouled )
Have had this issue myself and experienced similar problems as yours ,.
Could explain why it seemed progressively worse as the years past .

 

[Jaybird1980]

@Bill2905 post a pic of the carb if you have a chance.

Despite this guy's terrible YouTube persona he is a really good mechanic. (And not to far from you). This video shows how the jets/ports are hidden on carb compliant equipment.

 

[Bill2905]

Lots of good advice has been given ........another possibility could be a clogged or restricted exhaust port . ( carbon fouled )
Have had this issue myself and experienced similar problems as yours ,.
Could explain why it seemed progressively worse as the years past .

I pulled the muffler off last night and observed that the exhaust port on the cylinder is clean and open. The muffler does not have any carbon buildup inside the exhaust entrance either.

 

[Bill2905]

Oh I must have missed that he already tried SF.

It's cheapest to rebuild the OEM carb he already has if he has the ability. They're not complicated and plenty of videos to help him out.

I picked up some SF on my lunch break. Will try that this evening.

After I spray it into the carb, should I leave the choke open or closed when I try to start it?

 

[Bill2905]

@Bill2905 post a pic of the carb if you have a chance.

Despite this guy's terrible YouTube persona he is a really good mechanic. (And not to far from you). This video shows how the jets/ports are hidden on carb compliant equipment.

 

[Jaybird1980]

I picked up some SF on my lunch break. Will try that this evening.

After I spray it into the carb, should I leave the choke open or closed when I try to start it?

Just spray it in and pull. Choking it helps to draw fuel out of the float bowl and since you're bypassing the bowl by using SF it doesn't matter

 

[churchmouse]

I picked up some SF on my lunch break. Will try that this evening.

After I spray it into the carb, should I leave the choke open or closed when I try to start it?

Open choke. Give it a spritz and start as normal cold start.

 

[Jaybird1980]

View attachment 169744 View attachment 169745

Ok it looks like a Tecumseh or Briggs from what I can see, so the low speed circuit is probably under a welch plug in the float bowl.

The red arrow points to the welch plug, underneath is drilled holes that probably need cleaned out. If you're not comfortable with this any reputable shop should be able to do or purchase an OEM carb.
There may even be a second plug on the side of the carb.
Might be worth taking it off and soaking it in a coffee can full of cleaner for a few days, that might clean up those small passages.


Where are you located in Lake county?

 

[Bill2905]

Ok it looks like a Tecumseh from what I can see, so the low speed circuit is probably under a welch plug in the float bowl.

The red arrow points to the welch plug, underneath is drilled holes that probably need cleaned out. If you're not comfortable with this any reputable shop should be able to do or purchase an OEM carb.

View attachment 169746
Where are you located in Lake county?

I think it's a Briggs & Stratton engine from all the parts stuff I have been looking at.

I'm in Munster. I'll give the SF a try, see what happens and go from there.

I just picked up a new Toro last month and this is now a backup machine so it's not as urgent as if it were my primary machine. It's become a personal challenge because I hate paying $100/hr shop rate for something I could probably do myself if I had some knowledge. I always wanted to learn to fix small engines and this is a good opportunity.