Sharpening systems. Which one?

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  • Bigtanker

    Cuddles
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    I want to get into sharpening my own blades. I have no idea where to even begin to look so I figured I'd ask you folks here. First and foremost, I'd like something easy to learn. As far as type, I really don't care. Wet, dry doesn't matter. Time isn't a factor either. When I need to do it, I'll make the time to do it correctly. I have plenty of blades to practice on but mainly my EDC, a Launch 5, will be my main concern.

    So what do you use and how hard is it to learn?
     

    OurDee

    nobody
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    I use an 8" long stone and sharpen by hand. I have tried the stone on a rod that slides while the knife is clamped down. The exspensive ones work. The cheap ones, meh. Now I'll get ut of the way of the professionals.
     

    shootersix

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    Easiest is a spyderco sharpmaker, break down and buy an extra fine set of rods too, it should come with a corse and fine, but you will have to buy the extra fine rods separately.

    The other choice would be the work sharp “ken onion” version it’s a lot more expensive, and had a learning curve (play around with cheap flea market knives!), it changes the profile of your edge (an apple seed edge) but will get your blade so sharp, the hair on your arm will jump off!
     

    brandonq2

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    I've been really happy with my wicked edge. It's easy to be consistent with edge profiles and the basic system will get most anything plenty sharp for work. Spend as much as you like to upgrade to ever finer diamond stones and leather strops with diamond paste to get that scary sharp/mirror polished cutting edge.

    Specifically to my needs, the diamond stones have no issues sharpening and/or reprofiling my benchmade D2 blade even after using it as a deburring tool on aluminum and steel.
     

    churchmouse

    I still care....Really
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    I use an 8" long stone and sharpen by hand. I have tried the stone on a rod that slides while the knife is clamped down. The exspensive ones work. The cheap ones, meh. Now I'll get ut of the way of the professionals.
    This. I have a selection of stones and hone oil. If you are patient you can pull up a seriously well tuned blade.
     

    WhitleyStu

    Keep'em Scary Sharp!!!
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    Any system with a good strong fixture to keep the blade in the same position for each pass. A Tormek T4 or T8 (which I currently have) is a good motorized system that puts a great "V" edge on most any blade with the exception of recurves. I've had several Tormeks over the years and love the "better than factory" edge it produces. I also use a Reeder 2x72 for convex hand sharpening or use the knife jig Reeder sells to get a "V" edge. Power stropping on a 2x72 with a leather belt charged with green or pink compound brings the edge to a perfect satin finished razor edge.
     

    Jaybird1980

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    I use a Gatco sharpening system, it's the same idea as Lansky. The Lansky has more stones and accessories available. The holder design doesn't clamp down on thin blades very well (filet knives, smaller kitchen knives, etc.) I also use a leather stropping block.

    The wicked edge are awesome but pricey. There is a knock off on amazon that has caught my eye.
    I will see if I can figure out how to link it

    Amazon product ASIN B08F7ZK41Z
     
    Rating - 100%
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    Nov 2, 2017
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    LaPaz Junction
    I bought a worksharp and figured out that the belt sharpens up on one side and down on the other. A recipe for a feather edge. Then I found out they offer a larger selection of belts if you order separate. One thing tho is they sharpen serrated blades very easy with the 6000 grit belt. You hone the flat side of the blade. I didn't know this so it was worth the 70$
     

    jbombelli

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    You should give us a lesson or two.
    There's lots of ways to do it. The most important things are keeping your angles consistent and the correct angle. Blacken the edge with a sharpie, and get started. After a few swipes see if the ink is still there, or where it's rubbed off and adjust your angle if necessary so you can be sure you get the ink off. Then when you know your angles and can reliably eyeball what you're doing, just start sharpening. Go easy without a lot of pressure or force.

    After you've done it enough times you won't need ink, you'll be able to just eyeball it.

    Note, systems work quickly. This is slow. Think of it as taking your time and massaging a loved one.

    There are also some pretty good videos on youtube, which probably will do a better job of explaining than I did.
     

    foszoe

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    There's lots of ways to do it. The most important things are keeping your angles consistent and the correct angle. Blacken the edge with a sharpie, and get started. After a few swipes see if the ink is still there, or where it's rubbed off and adjust your angle if necessary so you can be sure you get the ink off. Then when you know your angles and can reliably eyeball what you're doing, just start sharpening. Go easy without a lot of pressure or force.

    After you've done it enough times you won't need ink, you'll be able to just eyeball it.

    Note, systems work quickly. This is slow. Think of it as taking your time and massaging a loved one.

    There are also some pretty good videos on youtube, which probably will do a better job of explaining than I did.
    I have EZE LAP stones and I manage to get them sharper but never super sharp...ink tip may help
     

    bwframe

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    I just watched this. I'm gonna give it a try. I like the idea of how to find and maintain the proper angle, something I have a LOT of trouble with.

    I like the idea of relearning sharpening with a field tool.




    Dan pointed out something to try that makes a lot of sense. I'm gonna practice on the drawer full of dull kitchen knives first, before scratching up my pretty Benchmades.

    It's winter, great time to practice and learn before spring when there isn't enough time for anything.
     
    Last edited:

    Tactically Fat

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    Go to Goodwill or the Starvation Army and buy your practice fodder...

    Any system that requires YOU to be consistent in how you hold your arm, wrist, and hands - YOU will be the limiting factor. It's been mentioned here already and in several more similar threads: SpyderCo Sharpmaker. You have to keep your blade 100% vertical as you draw it down against the angled-for-you stones. *I* cannot seem to achieve this. Lots of other people cannot, either. Conversely, lots of other people CAN.

    Therefore, my own personal opinion is that a system that utilizes some kind of jig to hold the blade at a consistent and repeatable angle is more better than something that does not hold the blade at a consistent and repeatable angle.
     
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