Sharpener options less than $200

[nascarfantoo]

I love the Spyderco system. Simple. Can get ultrafine stones if you want.

Spyderco on Amazon

 

[Judamonster]

I wouldn't mind picking one of these up in the future for axes and bigger stuff, but im not a fan of the idea of removing so much material so fast. The room for error is larger than I care to deal.with.

It does not remove it as fast as you think. I rarely use the coarse belt, and when I do the knife has had trauma. I buy good cutlery. Most of my user knives are Bark River, Lt wright, Grohmann, Helle, vintage Case/Western, etc. I have yet to ruin a blade. I had a Case Finn that I used to dig a broadhead out of the rib of deer. the edge was so F'd I almost trashed the knife. I spent 20 min with the coarsest belt before I got it reprofiled and then I sharpened it. My Cabela's has one set up so you can sharpen you knife with it. Bring a crappy pocket knife in and play with it once. Nothing works for everyone, we all have a different system we are comfortable with. I always used stones, but I struggled to get Cru Wear and Elmax razor sharp so i started trying different things.

 

[sadclownwp]

I've wondered about these after seeing Facebook videos for months. First time I've seen an endorsement from real life user. Same result as a wicked edge at 1/8th the cost sounds good.

The good news is that with the Ruixin Pro, you only have to redo the edge of the knife once. Takes about 20 ish minutes on a chef knife. Once you correct the edge, you can just upkeep the blade with the Spyderco Sharpmaker at like a 2 minute job. I have used those two sharpeners on everything from Wustoff to Esee to Microtech. They get the job done for a lot less than some professional sharpeners.

 

[HamsterStyle]

Out of curiosity, have you ever used the Lansky system? If so, how would you compare it to the Ruixin Pro?

The good news is that with the Ruixin Pro, you only have to redo the edge of the knife once. Takes about 20 ish minutes on a chef knife. Once you correct the edge, you can just upkeep the blade with the Spyderco Sharpmaker at like a 2 minute job. I have used those two sharpeners on everything from Wustoff to Esee to Microtech. They get the job done for a lot less than some professional sharpeners.

 

[sadclownwp]

Out of curiosity, have you ever used the Lansky system? If so, how would you compare it to the Ruixin Pro?

I used one a long time ago in boy scouts, I think I still have it somewhere in storage. I would never pay more than $20 bucks for the lansky system. It really does not compare in versatility, though if you make longer rods for the lansky system it is not terrible.

 

[HamsterStyle]

I used one a long time ago in boy scouts, I think I still have it somewhere in storage. I would never pay more than $20 bucks for the lansky system. It really does not compare in versatility, though if you make longer rods for the lansky system it is not terrible.

Gotcha. I think I picked mine up at goodwill for $4 and ordered one of the stones from Amazon for 12-15 bucks. While the system works, there are flaws and it definitely leaves a little to be desired. The work sharp looks like it fills in the voids the lansky leaves.

 

[Frosty]

I made my own sharpener, kinda the same as the lansky, but with a 3/8 steel rod through a swivel. I threaded the end of the rod and squared up a piece of wood and added a threaded insert, then epoxied on three small diamond stones, I think maybe $25 from Amazon. Works great.

This is where I got the basic design.

 

[baglorious]

I own the Apex Edge Pro system - it does an amazing job, and allows you to set a known, measured angle. I think I bought the version that is currently $225. I don't regret the expenditure... it is a lifetime purchase.

 

[HamsterStyle]

I made my own sharpener, kinda the same as the lansky, but with a 3/8 steel rod through a swivel. I threaded the end of the rod and squared up a piece of wood and added a threaded insert, then epoxied on three small diamond stones, I think maybe $25 from Amazon. Works great.

This is where I got the basic design.

That is pretty cool, but I do not have the drive or setup to allow for making that right now.

 

[ghuns]

I got this Work Sharp precision sharpener for Christmas. So far, I like it a lot. Done some D2 knives, some CPMS35V, and a bunch of mystery steel kitchen knives. Did great on all of them.

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[HamsterStyle]

I got this Work Sharp precision sharpener for Christmas. So far, I like it a lot. Done some D2 knives, some CPMS35V, and a bunch of mystery steel kitchen knives. Did great on all of them.

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Awesome. I think I am going to pick that same one up in the next week or 2. I am pretty excited about it.

 

[ghuns]

Awesome. I think I am going to pick that same one up in the next week or 2. I am pretty excited about it.

I have a knock off edge pro. I prefer the stones I have for it, but the rotating clamp on the Work Sharp more than makes up for that.

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[ghuns]

Even with this Work Sharp precision, I struggled to get an edge I was happy with on my ZT knives with their S35VN blade steel. High carbon, stainless, even D2 came out great, but that S35VN was kickin my arse.

Since last night's football game wasn't keeping my attention, I decided I was gonna figure the out. Since it wasn't in bad shape, I put some sharpie on the blade and got the angle dialed in with the 400 grit diamond. I then hit each side with the 600 grit. When I went to 800 grit I raised the angle, using a cheapie digital protractor, by .1°. I did this again with the ceramic stone and the leather strop loaded with diamond paste. It's the sharpest I have ever gotten any of the super steels. Like hair poppin, push cuttin paper sharp.

I think this stems from the nature of these super steels. On lesser steel, you are really just pushing a burr back and forth that you keep refining. I have never felt the slightest burr on S35VN. But when I hit it with that ceramic stone last night, .1° higher than the previous stone, I could feel the slightest resistance as I pulled it across the blade. On the next stroke it was gone.

 

[Frosty]

I think this stems from the nature of these super steels. On lesser steel, you are really just pushing a burr back and forth that you keep refining. I have never felt the slightest burr on S35VN. But when I hit it with that ceramic stone last night, .1° higher than the previous stone, I could feel the slightest resistance as I pulled it across the blade. On the next stroke it was gone.

I noticed when I sharpened a buddy’s spyderco knife that I never really got a burr, after a while I got what looked like a broken hair on the edge, I think the metal is just so hard it just breaks rather than rolling.

 

[ghuns]

That burr you get on a good old fashioned high carbon blade is what makes it so sharp. I have an old Olsen fillet knife that will cut you if look at it wrong. While the modern super steels are amazing for edge retention, they just can't ever get as sharp high carbon. Kinda like a high speed steel saw blade vs carbide.

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[Hillbillyblood]

I got this Work Sharp precision sharpener for Christmas. So far, I like it a lot. Done some D2 knives, some CPMS35V, and a bunch of mystery steel kitchen knives. Did great on all of them.

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Bought one just like it right after Christmas, so far it’s been very good for what I need m.

 

[bwframe]

I got this Work Sharp precision sharpener for Christmas. So far, I like it a lot. Done some D2 knives, some CPMS35V, and a bunch of mystery steel kitchen knives. Did great on all of them.

This is a good system. I upgraded to the case and extra stones/strop from the original purchase.

The limitation to this system is that pretty small and pretty big knives don't do as well with it. They either have your stones grinding the blade holder or loose the desired angle at the tip of the blade, due to the longer distance from the blade center.

It's got me wondering about constructing a larger assembly? There seem to be a fair amount of ideas and even assemblies and kits out to do just that?




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