38 super you say? Wouldn't that be cool.
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*Rumor* Springfield "Prodigy" 2011 Pistol
- Thread starter Dean C.
- Start date
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How's sear engagement look with the Harrison design stuff utilizing it as essentially drop in parts? Call me insane but if I am upgrading to tool steel I am having a smith work it over myself. Then you still need to upgrade disconnector , slide stop and recoil system (get the Dawson Tooless unit and thank me later)
I started this thread and I love detailing it , this has been the most fun I have had on INGO in a while.
Also my official response to not having a gunsmith work a tool steel upgrade over. I even had my Staccato worked over having it made a glass rod break versus the standard rolling break.
The Harrison kits come with the disconnector. He offers two different sets one with the standard sear geometry or one with the TR (true radius) sear nose which is the type of jig I have and works well as long as the sear is long enough to be cut. I've used a ton of these kits in SPFD's, Colts, and ground up builds and rarely had to touch one up. In reality they are probably made by EGW but their parts are good to go too I just prefer the Harrison's, seem to have a better final finish. I'll have to gauge my trigger, not sure what poundage it is but it's crisp, I could probably just tweak the sear spring and be fine. As far as MIM parts go if you were really worried about it the most concerning would probably be the slide stop and firing pin stop, those two parts can take a beating.
.38 Super would be interesting, i'd avoid .45.
I agree 38super would be interesting but have to ask why you would suggest to avoid .45?
They don't run as good as the 9's or supers.
A local shop has it on the rental wall and I gata say it was a blast to shoot. Unfortunately seems to be out of stock everywhere.
There aren't many others out there with his resume putting out the quality of information he does.
I had heard good things about 10-8 Performance sights - back in 2018 I actually got a set for my P30. Great sights but looks like he doesn't cater to HK anymore. I wasn't aware of 10-8's history or origins. Following this thread was my intro to Hilton Yam - I need to subscribe to his channel as I have been bitten by the 2011 bug.
venenoindy
Master
He has a series of videos about the 2011, he has a lot of good info on the platform.
I went out with the 4.25 again the other day with some more FMJ and some various HP's. I did have two failure to extracts with the HP's which hadn't happened before. I have been meaning to take it apart and check it out and I needed to clean it anyway. I planned on doing my usual reliability tweaks and look it over. Starting with the barrel the feed ramp comes nicely polished from the factory, I cleaned up and blended the throat a bit better and repolished everything but it was likely unnecessary, if you're having malfunctions it's not likely because of the feed ramp. I have been wanting to check out the extractor so I took that out, the extractor depth was fine so I just polished it out a bit.
When I put it back in and tested it there was pretty much zero extractor tension, no surprise I had some failures to extract. I adjusted the tension and checked for clocking which there is an excessive amount of clocking, the only way to fix that would be to fit a new firing pin stop but i'll shoot it next week again and see if it's an issue, typically you can get by. The ejector is unusual and I noticed this on Yam's video in that the cut on the front of the ejector is angled up instead (shallower at the top and flares out towards the bottom) of down as is typically done. This angle is reminiscent of a GI ejector that was cut that way to eject the cases straight up and out because they didn't have lowered ejection ports. Not sure why SPFD did this but most of my tools and workbench etc are still in storage so i'm not going to mess with it right now.
One of the biggest issues people have been having is with the disconnector so I wanted to look at that. It's actually quite polished out, more so than I even typically do and has no cerakote like the hammer and sear. On the disconnector I just refiled a bit around the top radius and the trigger flat at the bottom and re-polished it. A simple cure usually for this hang up is to just cut a very small bevel at the bottom of the breech face that hits the disconnector but this was actually already done so I just squared it up a bit and made it look better. The disconnector track was also polished out a bit.
Finally I just adjusted the trigger a bit. There were already bevels cut in the legs of the sear spring which I always do so again I just cleaned those up a bit and they're fine. All I did for the trigger was to just adjust the sear and hammer/disconnector legs of the sear spring a bit, that'll take a bit more tension off that disconnector (there was a lot of spring pressure on it). I forgot to measure the initial trigger pull but it was probably 5-6 pounds at least. With the bit of adjustment it's now just a bit under 4lbs and actually with no creep
I ordered one of those HEX optics on a labor day sale and once other plates are available i'll just put it on one of my .22's but I wanted to play with an optic on this. The HEX is fine but the rear end is thicker than say an RMR or Holosun but not as much as it looked like from pictures. The dot isn't as crisp as an RMR or Holosun but it sighted in pretty quickly and seems to work fine.
When I put it back in and tested it there was pretty much zero extractor tension, no surprise I had some failures to extract. I adjusted the tension and checked for clocking which there is an excessive amount of clocking, the only way to fix that would be to fit a new firing pin stop but i'll shoot it next week again and see if it's an issue, typically you can get by. The ejector is unusual and I noticed this on Yam's video in that the cut on the front of the ejector is angled up instead (shallower at the top and flares out towards the bottom) of down as is typically done. This angle is reminiscent of a GI ejector that was cut that way to eject the cases straight up and out because they didn't have lowered ejection ports. Not sure why SPFD did this but most of my tools and workbench etc are still in storage so i'm not going to mess with it right now.
One of the biggest issues people have been having is with the disconnector so I wanted to look at that. It's actually quite polished out, more so than I even typically do and has no cerakote like the hammer and sear. On the disconnector I just refiled a bit around the top radius and the trigger flat at the bottom and re-polished it. A simple cure usually for this hang up is to just cut a very small bevel at the bottom of the breech face that hits the disconnector but this was actually already done so I just squared it up a bit and made it look better. The disconnector track was also polished out a bit.
Finally I just adjusted the trigger a bit. There were already bevels cut in the legs of the sear spring which I always do so again I just cleaned those up a bit and they're fine. All I did for the trigger was to just adjust the sear and hammer/disconnector legs of the sear spring a bit, that'll take a bit more tension off that disconnector (there was a lot of spring pressure on it). I forgot to measure the initial trigger pull but it was probably 5-6 pounds at least. With the bit of adjustment it's now just a bit under 4lbs and actually with no creep
I ordered one of those HEX optics on a labor day sale and once other plates are available i'll just put it on one of my .22's but I wanted to play with an optic on this. The HEX is fine but the rear end is thicker than say an RMR or Holosun but not as much as it looked like from pictures. The dot isn't as crisp as an RMR or Holosun but it sighted in pretty quickly and seems to work fine.
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Just wondering what your impressions were, ease of handling? Grip texture, aggressive or not so much?I went out with the 4.25 again the other day with some more FMJ and some various HP's. I did have two failure to extracts with the HP's which hadn't happened before. I have been meaning to take it apart and check it out and I needed to clean it anyway. I planned on doing my usual reliability tweaks and look it over. Starting with the barrel the feed ramp comes nicely polished from the factory, I cleaned up and blended the throat a bit better and repolished everything but it was likely unnecessary, if you're having malfunctions it's not likely because of the feed ramp. I have been wanting to check out the extractor so I took that out, the extractor depth was fine so I just polished it out a bit.
When I put it back in and tested it there was pretty much zero extractor tension, no surprise I had some failures to extract. I adjusted the tension and checked for clocking which there is an excessive amount of clocking, the only way to fix that would be to fit a new firing pin stop but i'll shoot it next week again and see if it's an issue, typically you can get by. The ejector is unusual and I noticed this on Yam's video in that the cut on the front of the ejector is angled up instead (shallower at the top and flares out towards the bottom) of down as is typically done. This angle is reminiscent of a GI ejector that was cut that way to eject the cases straight up and out because they didn't have lowered ejection ports. Not sure why SPFD did this but most of my tools and workbench etc are still in storage so i'm not going to mess with it right now.
One of the biggest issues people have been having is with the disconnector so I wanted to look at that. It's actually quite polished out, more so than I even typically do and has no cerakote like the hammer and sear. On the disconnector I just refiled a bit around the top radius and the trigger flat at the bottom and re-polished it. A simple cure usually for this hang up is to just cut a very small bevel at the bottom of the breech face that hits the disconnector but this was actually already done so I just squared it up a bit and made it look better. The disconnector track was also polished out a bit.
Finally I just adjusted the trigger a bit. There were already bevels cut in the legs of the sear spring which I always do so again I just cleaned those up a bit and they're fine. All I did for the trigger was to just adjust the sear and hammer/disconnector legs of the sear spring a bit, that'll take a bit more tension off that disconnector (there was a lot of spring pressure on it). I forgot to measure the initial trigger pull but it was probably 5-6 pounds at least. With the bit of adjustment it's now just a bit under 4lbs and actually with no creep
I ordered one of those HEX optics on a labor day sale and once other plates are available i'll just put it on one of my .22's but I wanted to play with an optic on this. The HEX is fine but the rear end is thicker than say an RMR or Holosun but not as much as it looked like from pictures. The dot isn't as crisp as an RMR or Holosun but it sighted in pretty quickly and seems to work fine.
Asking for a friend.
I'm liking it so far, the slide etc. is really smooth as others have said, slide/frame/barrel fit is nice. Grip texture feels just about right but not as rough as say the M&Ps. I'm not sure why these are so much heavier than Staccato's though, not sure where the extra weight is, don't have a Staccato to compare.
Did Not realize they weighed in more than the Other guy. I was kind of kicking around the idea looking into one.
Thanks
