Restoration of a s&w pre model 10.

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  • Taeverling

    Plinker
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    Sep 22, 2021
    118
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    Swayzee indiana
    Hello everyone, I'm thinking about rebluing my pre model 10 and was wondering. If I unscrew the barrel will it thread back on the same way when finished? I figure the pin will help put it back to its original position but I didn't want to take the chance of Messing it up. Anyone have any experience with this?
     

    mhs

    Plinker
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    May 25, 2009
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    The pin normally allows a degree or two of rotation either direction. It doesn't really do anything unless the barrel is very loose. If you take the barrel off, and don't polish the mating faces of the barrel and frame, you might be able to reinstall it with reasonable torque. If it's too loose you can locktite it, or set it back a thread.
     

    Taeverling

    Plinker
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    Sep 22, 2021
    118
    28
    Swayzee indiana
    The pin normally allows a degree or two of rotation either direction. It doesn't really do anything unless the barrel is very loose. If you take the barrel off, and don't polish the mating faces of the barrel and frame, you might be able to reinstall it with reasonable torque. If it's too loose you can locktite it, or set it back a thread.
    Alrighty,thank ou for the info. How tight are they torqued? I've heard they don't torque the older pinned barrels very much.
     

    mhs

    Plinker
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    May 25, 2009
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    They're not torqued to a specific value. They're normally fitted so they're hand-tight around 10 o'clock, then tightened to eyeball-correct alignment with a vice and a big wrench. The pin is largely cosmetic; pinned and unpinned barrels should be tightened the same. The pin does not keep barrels from loosening, just from unscrewing more then a few degrees. Some newer barrels are very hard to remove, not because they have no pin and need more torque, but because the factory didn't take the time to fit them properly.
     

    Taeverling

    Plinker
    Rating - 0%
    0   0   0
    Sep 22, 2021
    118
    28
    Swayzee indiana
    They're not torqued to a specific value. They're normally fitted so they're hand-tight around 10 o'clock, then tightened to eyeball-correct alignment with a vice and a big wrench. The pin is largely cosmetic; pinned and unpinned barrels should be tightened the same. The pin does not keep barrels from loosening, just from unscrewing more then a few degrees. Some newer barrels are very hard to remove, not because they have no pin and need more torque, but because the factory didn't take the time to fit them properly.
    They're not torqued to a specific value. They're normally fitted so they're hand-tight around 10 o'clock, then tightened to eyeball-correct alignment with a vice and a big wrench. The pin is largely cosmetic; pinned and unpinned barrels should be tightened the same. The pin does not keep barrels from loosening, just from unscrewing more then a few degrees. Some newer barrels are very hard to remove, not because they have no pin and need more torque, but because the factory didn't take the time to fit them properly.
    Okay, that isn't near as tight as I figured it would have to be, good deal. Thanks for the info, I just hope it goes back together the way it came off.
     
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