Reloading - must have tools

[slow1911s]

Reloading is rewarding and cost effective. It is also dangerous. But the dangers of reloading can be mitigated with proper tools. And the tools I'm talking about deal with measuring - weight, size and speed.

Scale - one universal truth to reloading is that components - bullets and powder - will be inconsistent from one lot to the next. And, let's face it, when you're dealing with explosives, 'close enough' just isn't going to cut it. Any scale should be accurate to +/-0.1 gr or better.

• Beam scales - I use and recommend Redding. I switched to this after (1) have problems with RF interference with my electronic scale and (2) getting advice from benchrest shooters. Simple and accurate. RCBS and Lyman are also good equipment as well.
• Electronic - I have owned and recommend Dillon. Although I had trouble with mine when I moved near a large TV antenna array, I had nothing but reliable, accurate service with mine.

Calipers & Micrometer - Case and final assembly dimensions are critical to safety and reliability. Rounds loaded to long may not fit into magazines or may engage rifling when put into battery (very bad). Loaded too short, and you quickly end up in overpressure situations that can be catastrophic. A good set of digital calipers that read out to 0.001" are what you need and are available from a variety of sources. Micrometers are necessary to help you determine if you're belling your brass too much or not enough, and if you're applying enough crimp (which helps prevent setback, among other things.) This tool should also read out to 0.001"

Chronograph - There are many variables that effect how any loaded round of ammunition will behave under certain conditions. One tried and true test, and in my opinion the ultimate safety device, is the chronograph. Specs outlined in various reloading manuals are done under lab conditions. I don't know about you, but I don't shoot in a lab. I shoot when it's 20 degrees all the way up to 100+; from 20% humidity to 100% and any combination of these. The speed (fps) of your rounds is one of the most important indicators of safety. Just because XXXX loading manual says that 3.5 grs of Clays at 2.300" OAL will give you 740 fps doesn't mean that it actually will in your gun. Don't guess - know.

• PACT - Model 1 XP PACT Inc. - Model 1 XP Chronograph I use the MkIV version that includes a shot timer because I shoot competition and I need that. Very accurate and give you lots of data including Std Dev, Extreme Spread, Hi/Low.
• Chrony - Shooting Chrony® Models & Master Chrony® Models I know lots of people who love and use these.
• CED - CEDHK - CED M2 Chronograph Used a lot in USPSA competition to determine power factor. High quality
• Oehler - Oehler Research, Inc.--Model 35 Proof Chronograph If you can find one and have the $$$ - buy it. THE standard.

Loading manuals are important. I own one and I've read it - a Lyman. But, when it comes to data, I go to the powder mfg's website. You should own one.

In terms of the rest of equipment like presses, dies, etc. it really comes down to preference. I use Dillon Precision presses and dies because I think nothing else compares - not even close. I take that back - Redding dies are worth every penny, especially their competition seating dies.

 

[42769vette]

good post i think alot of people here are new to reloading (including me) and this will help those people. one thing ive learned is reloading is extreamly addicting

 

[paddling_man]

Informative and potentially a public safety service!

 

[obijohn]

well said, dave. reps to you. the only thing i would add is that while the loading data on websites are likely the most up to date, owning a couple of printed loading manuals will be quite helpful. typically there is more than just charge weights in a good manual. as to presses, i too use dillon progressive presses and highly recommend them to the experienced reloader. imho, and is an opinion, a single stage O frame press is the ideal starter. there are a lot of steps to reloading much less load development, and the single stage press will allow you to become intimately familiar with those steps. can you learn to load on a dillon 1050 super duper? yes, just like you can learn to drive in an open wheel indy car. just not recommended.

 

[Old Syko]

Multiple manuals is the number 1 must have item. I've always used a combination of 3 for each load I work up. 1 from the chosen bullet manufacturer, 1 from the chosen powder manufacturer, and 1 independent which is what I use the Lyman for. Compare and combine the data from all 3, add in a bit of common sense sprinkled with an ample amount of self preservation and you will never go wrong.

A quality beam scale is number 2 and I don't care what color it is as long as it is quality. This scale and your ability to use it correctly is your life line.

I've owned a chronograph since the early '80s and am a believer in their use, but! The use of a chronograph is often misunderstood. It will tell you nothing but the velocity achieved from a particular component combination. Since there is no direct correlation between velocity and pressure, any chrono results can be used only as another piece of the puzzle. Don't get me wrong. I am a believer in their use and don't ever want to be without one again if I can help it, but the data I gain from it's use is used in proper context.

imho, and is an opinion, a single stage O frame press is the ideal starter. there are a lot of steps to reloading much less load development, and the single stage press will allow you to become intimately familiar with those steps. can you learn to load on a dillon 1050 super duper? yes, just like you can learn to drive in an open wheel indy car. just not recommended

.

I agree 100%. That single stage O press will always be of use. I'm not about to work up new loads on a progressive. Once the desired load has been achieved the progressives are hard to beat for production runs though.

 

[NEOCON]

About the electronic scales, the ones I have seen and we have checked they have not held zero very well at all. I will admit the ones we have tried have been the lower priced ones being under $75 or so and have no experience with the Dillon model.
I have a mid line beam scale 5-0-5 and a set of check weights it has always been accurate as well as the Redding I had before this one. I bought a bunch or equipment from an older guy who was getting out of reloading do to rules at a housing situation. He had a cheaper electronic scale and a green one from a reputable company. He told me about the inaccuracy and I then verified it for myself. I then threw them both in the trash just so no one would have an issue with them.
I just don't think I could have as much confidence with a electronic. I am stating this as a question am I wrong in my thinking? I like the Lyman DPSIII and some day hope to have one. The one I have seen in use seems to be really nice but I have never had the chance to check it for an accurate reading as it is not mine and only seen it in operation a couple times at a friends house.

 

[Old Syko]

I just don't think I could have as much confidence with a electronic. I am stating this as a question am I wrong in my thinking? I like the Lyman DPSIII and some day hope to have one. The one I have seen in use seems to be really nice but I have never had the chance to check it for an accurate reading as it is not mine and only seen it in operation a couple times at a friends house.

The Lyman has had a reputation of inaccuracy and memory loss from its inception in some applications. Probably 99% of them work within Lyman's accepted variables but that isn't good enough for me. The 2 I have used showed too much variation from charge to charge while using stick powders like 4350, which is the only reason I wanted one. As much as .4 grains per charge on a 54 grain charge. The RCBS has never varied over .1 grain with the same powder. I've gone back to using an Ohaus beam scale and a trickler to throw charges with stick powders in the bigger calibers because I expect more from my equipment.

 

[NEOCON]

The one I seen would trickle right on the nose and very quick. I just didn't know how accurate the actual digital scale part was. I am going to take my 505 and check weights next time I go to check it. I use a Redding trickler now on rifle loads but just the thrower on the pistol loads, I do weigh every 10th charge or any that just didn't feel right. They both actually do pretty decent and do not vary that much.

 

[BE Mike]

I have been reloading since 1973 and have never found a need for a chronograph. I used to use a balance beam scale, but I have used a Dillon electronic scale for many years with no problem. It is as accurate as any scale out there and a lot faster and easier to use than my old balance beam scale. Contrary to opinions based on hearsay, I have been using a Lyman 1200 DPS 3 scale and powder system for a couple of months. It is accurate, when checking with check weights and works just as advertised.

 

[NEOCON]

I have been reloading since 1973 and have never found a need for a chronograph. I used to use a balance beam scale, but I have used a Dillon electronic scale for many years with no problem. It is as accurate as any scale out there and a lot faster and easier to use than my old balance beam scale. Contrary to opinions based on hearsay, I have been using a Lyman 1200 DPS 3 scale and powder system for a couple of months. It is accurate, when checking with check weights and works just as advertised.

Thanks for the info.