Quick Disconnect? Direct Thread?

dieselrealtor

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Long story short, looking at doing a few form 1's, possibly a commercial can as well.

All the info is a bit overwealming so I am trying to figure out what type of connection to get.

Wish list;
2 .308 cans
1 5.56
1 or 2 22rimfire

I like the idea of a muzzle device that is a QD but not sure if it is worth it?

Any experiences or recommendations are appreciated.
 

sloppyjoe

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For rimfire, direct thread is fine. For rifle cans, QD is normally the best if you want to be able to attach and detach the silencer without tools. For .308, I would get a YHM Resonator 2. For 5.56, I would get a YHM Turbo K. For rimfire, I would get a Dead Air Mask or EA NYX Mod1. For QD, I prefer Griffin minimalist taper mounts (plan A). They are very light, very short, and work great!
 

mike4

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Agree with direct thread on 22LR. QD not worth the added bulk and weight given both can be pleasantly minimized for 22LR. A skilled machinist would have no problem fabricating a decent direct thread 22LR or 9mm/.40/45ACP along the lines of current take-down capable designs (Form 1). A little more skill on the back endcap and you could employ available off the shelf LID pistons from someone like Silencerco.

For the centerfire rifle cans I would be looking to buy. I think you will end up with a much better product than most people could fabricate, and you would not have the design refinements of larger manufacturers with welded internals to stand up to heat buildup, or the highly refined QD systems from someone like Surefire. I stopped tracking new QD designs once I settled on Surefire a few years ago, but nothing else came close for not having issues back at that time. SF QD design in 5.56mm and 7.62mm NATO is well established and sold in large numbers so you are less likely to get orphaned where you can no longer get compatible muzzle devices, and there is a good selection of them; 3 prong, muzzle brake, Warcomp, closed tine. And prices have come down a little over the last few years, Arms Unlimited seems to have good prices on SF everyday or during sales.

I do think the plan for (2) .308 and (1) 5.56 is ideal. If I were buying today I would get a SOCOM556-RC2 and SOCOM 762 RC2 that are both quick detach, and then look at a Thunderbeast direct thread for .308 to use on bolt actions, scoped 7.62mm/6.5 CM AR, and/or any heavier longer range scoped 5.56mm AR using a thread adapter.
 
Last edited:

Goodcat

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With modern QDs, you are fine. I run all QD (except 22) and have had no issue with repeatability out to 1 mile, no more than environmental issues at least. Silencerco ASR specifically is what I have experience with.
 

Tactically Fat

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Me and my limited experience:

I only have 2 centerfire rifle cans. 5.56 and a .30. I went with QD.

Honestly, now, I wish that I'd have done with direct thread. I don't move my cans around like I thought I would. And, now, if a buddy or my dad wants to use my can on their gun, they cannot due to not having the muzzle device mounted.

If you go QD - be sure that you can source the muzzle devices and/or be sure at least 1 is included with the can itself. Some brands/styles are MIGHTY hard to find.
 

mike4

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My bias toward QD in 5.56mm:

I had thought about a direct thread Gemtech Trek as a 2nd 5.56mm can, but I would have pinned it on or at least torqued the hell out of it with no intention of moving it between barrels. Why, and why QD preferred for 5.56mm semi-auto? I want 0% chance of coming loose and destroying a fairly expensive centerfire can with a baffle strike, and rapid and more extreme heating makes it impractical to do the occasional grasp-and-twist as with 22LR cans, or pistols where they heat up slower and cool down faster. Tend to use .308on longer range rifles with slower fire so less of an issue with direct thread, and have a heat resistant cover (to reduce mirage) that enables occasional checking. With higher rate of fire use on a semi-auto I don't want a cover on there reducing the cooling rate, and you can still end up melting a cover.

Folks may weight the pros and cons differently, but that's my reasoning.

Speaking of muzzle devices being hard to find, I would have bought a lot more Surefire closed tine attachments instead of 3 prong had they been available at the time. To my original point it should not be an issue for quite a few years with Surefire discontinuing them, but now that I'm looking at upgrading one 3 prong to a closed tine they are out of stock everywhere. I don't see where the current spike in demand would being having much effect on that particular item. Maybe just a variant of Murphy's Law interacting with SF's batch scheduling.
 

HK Guy

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Thread on is fine, I've got both and let me tell you why. After thinking, "I can use this QA can on all these guns" I found that it doesn't work that way. Due to zero shifts (they do) you pretty much have to dedicate a can to a specific gun and leave it with it.
 

Fixer

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I have recently started looking into a Griffin Bushwacker 46 can. It is a universal can that has a wide variety of calibers it can be used on. If you don't need dedicated cans for multiple rifles, this might be a viable option. I an planning on getting it for 9mm, 10mm, and 45acp pistols as it can be used with one cam lock piston. You would just need the cam lock muzzle device for each pistol. It also comes with a taper mount that works with fixed barrel guns. I have an AR in 45acp and 458 Socom I would like to be able to use it on as well. Total would be around $800-$900 plus the $200 for the stamp and I would have a system that would cover them all.
 

Tactically Fat

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I have recently started looking into a Griffin Bushwacker 46 can. It is a universal can that has a wide variety of calibers it can be used on. If you don't need dedicated cans for multiple rifles, this might be a viable option. I an planning on getting it for 9mm, 10mm, and 45acp pistols as it can be used with one cam lock piston. You would just need the cam lock muzzle device for each pistol. It also comes with a taper mount that works with fixed barrel guns. I have an AR in 45acp and 458 Socom I would like to be able to use it on as well. Total would be around $800-$900 plus the $200 for the stamp and I would have a system that would cover them all.

I think that kind of system works pretty good for pistols, but not so much for rifles.

Usually on a pistol setup like on a pistol, you can rotate the can in a circle a bit in order to kind of walk the zero back in.

You can't really do that with rifles. It's a good theory that a threaded rifle can would maintain zero after removal and re-installation - I don't personally know how viable that is. For rifle suppressors that will be used for hunting, serious target shooting, and/or defensive purposes - it's probably best to install it, zero it, then leave it on. Unless, of course, you have a way to re-zero all the time.
 

mms

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most cans with a taper mount design attachment, or direct thread will in fact return to zero every time they are removed and installed.

i have several varieties, yhm qd which as a taper mount in front of the threads, griffin which has a taper behind the threads, and a direct thread Ti can . I have them on some precision guns and they all return to zero after comin on and coming off. easy way to tell is remember where the SN information on the can is and watch how every time you take the can on and off its in the same spot/ orientation.

most of my rifles experience a strait up or down change of POI from the can. not so much left to right.

personally I like the taper design it gives you the best of both worlds. I have just never found a direct thread that you can snug up and be secure like you can a taper mount. even on a bolt action slowish firing you have to check the direct thread can every so often. let alone on a semi auto in my experience you can barely finish a mag with out it backing off some.
 

Fixer

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most cans with a taper mount design attachment, or direct thread will in fact return to zero every time they are removed and installed.

i have several varieties, yhm qd which as a taper mount in front of the threads, griffin which has a taper behind the threads, and a direct thread Ti can . I have them on some precision guns and they all return to zero after comin on and coming off. easy way to tell is remember where the SN information on the can is and watch how every time you take the can on and off its in the same spot/ orientation.

most of my rifles experience a strait up or down change of POI from the can. not so much left to right.

personally I like the taper design it gives you the best of both worlds. I have just never found a direct thread that you can snug up and be secure like you can a taper mount. even on a bolt action slowish firing you have to check the direct thread can every so often. let alone on a semi auto in my experience you can barely finish a mag with out it backing off some.

I have a Dead Air Titanium om my 300 Blk and it is a direct thread that we planned on leaving on the gun. I have shot it a few times and has yet to come loose.

I do like the taper design of some of the new Universal Suppressors. If I get one ordered I will have to report on the zero moving from one to the other and with or without the suppressor on pistol or rifle. Most of the time I plan on shooting the rifles suppressed only. Changing from taper adapter to piston will not be super convenient but I don’t plan on needing to change from one to the other that quick.
 

84VETTE

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I read somewhere that using lithium grease on direct threads will help keep the can from backing off.
 

Tactically Fat

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I read somewhere that using lithium grease on direct threads will help keep the can from backing off.

I'm not sure about helping it to not come off during firing, but it'll help you be able to get the can off when you want to. That or graphite.

I was told to use white lithium grease on my pistol suppressor's pistons, too. To help the spring slide better when they get gunky.
 

MArkB

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IMO it will depend on if your QD would also double as a muzzle brake and whether you would be shooting without the can. without, you will almost need double hearing protection.
 

sgthud

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I use QD, which doubles as a hybrid muzzle break/flash hider, on all my firearms except for rimfires (direct thread is fine)
 

1nderbeard

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I have a Hybrid from Silencerco. Personally I have a few ARs with the ASR muzzle devices from Silencerco. I like the theory of being able to switch, but I haven't played around with change in zero mentioned above. I don't shoot all that much with the can. I also have a 30/30 that I just direct thread mount the can on.
For rimfire I have a gemtech gm22 and I've never used anything except direct thread mounts on a 10/22 and whatever rimfire pistol I'm using at the time.
 

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