Pistol optic zeroing idea

[FireBirdDS]

I was zeroing my pistol optic today and thought I’d share an improvised method for achieving nice, tight groupings utilizing a rifle zeroing sled and a pistol light.



In this case I’m using a TLR-1 light, but any light that extends past the barrel some will work. The mounting strap is tensioned around the light as I grip the pistol with some downward pressure. It’s so stable that I can even make use of the sleds elevation adjustments to bring my dot precisely on target. Recoil is all but eliminated.



These were my final groupings at 15 yards. I struggle with some slight to moderate hand tremors, so it helps tremendously to remove that input from my pistol movements during zeroing.

 

[MrSmitty]

Nice group!! Glad it works for you.

 

[manifest destiny]

That's an interesting idea. I suppose in as much as you're using the light for stability, one could use anything that attaches to the gun's rail and extends far enough to use as a brace would work similarly.

 

[Bassat]

Just curious... What kind of groups do you get freehand? I've been shooting handguns for somewhere in the neighborhood of 50 years. Fixed irons seem to work OK for me. I did bother to zero a Browning Buckmark with a 2-7x scope at 25 yards once. Nice tight groups from a nice solid rest. It did very little for my freehand shooting.

 

[russc2542]

I would not hold the gun down via the light/pic rail. Rest the gun on the rest, ideally rest your hand (in firing grip) on the rest. Not good for the light, frame, and zeroing it that way is like zeroing a rifle scope with the barrel itself on the rest instead of the stock (it won't be the same zero as when you take it off the rest. Of course at most people's pistol distances it might not be far enough to matter).

With tremors, do what you gotta do.

 

[cedartop]

I would not hold the gun down via the light/pic rail. Rest the gun on the rest, ideally rest your hand (in firing grip) on the rest. Not good for the light, frame, and zeroing it that way is like zeroing a rifle scope with the barrel itself on the rest instead of the stock (it won't be the same zero as when you take it off the rest. Of course at most people's pistol distances it might not be far enough to matter).

With tremors, do what you gotta do.

I definitely agree that you would want to check the zero freestyle in a case like this, however I don't think what is going on here would be the equivalent of resting a rifle on the barrel. I could be wrong of course.

 

[Dean C.]

Zero a pistol red dot at 25 yards it’s the ideal zero IMHO

Age Verification - NRA

 

[DadSmith]

Zero a pistol red dot at 25 yards it’s the ideal zero IMHO

Age Verification - NRA

I like 15yds for my 9mm and 10mm pistols.

10mm


9mm


You can basically hold it dead on and hit out to 50yds without a problem.
Of course my handloads are hotter than both of these, but they still fall pretty much into the same ballistics.

 

[700 LTR 223]

I would not hold the gun down via the light/pic rail. Rest the gun on the rest, ideally rest your hand (in firing grip) on the rest. Not good for the light, frame, and zeroing it that way is like zeroing a rifle scope with the barrel itself on the rest instead of the stock (it won't be the same zero as when you take it off the rest. Of course at most people's pistol distances it might not be far enough to matter).

With tremors, do what you gotta do.

Yeah I think the gun should be allowed to recoil naturally. I zero most conventional handguns by holding them the same way I intent to shoot them. Even when zeroing from a rest for something like my XP-100 or testing ammo accuracy I place the gun on bags/rest and let it recoil. Ever see a Ransom Rest in use and the gun is allowed to freely recoil .

 

[Hookeye]

On a Ransom Rest the gun just pivots.

 

[indyblue]

On a Ransom Rest the gun just pivots.

I think the point is that some of the recoil is absorbed by the pivoting and reduces the stress of inertia between the moving parts of the gun and the stationary parts.

I could see a case where some MIM or poorly designed/machined parts inside might not like it.

 

[bwframe]

I like this idea! For sure, zero must be verified freehand after the fact, but taking yourself out of the loop initially could eliminate some question of less than seasoned/perfect grip.

Funny story... I picked up a Holosun SCS as soon as they hit the market. Obviously this sight is gun specific. Holosun stated in their documentation that this sight comes pre-zeroed at 25 yards. I verified their dead on zeroing at the range and have never touched the sight's adjustments.

 

[russc2542]

I like this idea! For sure, zero must be verified freehand after the fact, but taking yourself out of the loop initially could eliminate some question of less than seasoned/perfect grip.

Funny story... I picked up a Holosun SCS as soon as they hit the market. Obviously this sight is gun specific. Holosun stated in their documentation that this sight comes pre-zeroed at 25 yards. I verified their dead on zeroing at the range and have never touched the sight's adjustments.

If the bore and everything is square to the slide and the machining is done square to the slide, it can happen. When I swapped sights on my P365, the Holosun was dead on as well. When I put it on my P01 that AllenM machined, it was dead on after adding a 1 degree shim (the bore is 1 degree downward from straight-edge top of the slide)

 

[tcecil88]

I actually mounted a bipod to my Glock 40 10mm and that worked well too. I like the idea the OP showed and I am going to try it out.