Paper Wheel Sharpening?

[chezuki]

On a recent trip to Smoky Mountain Knife Works, I watched the guy in their sharpening room do some amazing stuff with paper wheels on a bench grinder. He took my Elmax ZT to sharper than its ever been in mere seconds. And I’m talking seriously sharp... not two beautifully polished bevels that never meet to form an actual edge like I’ve seen produced by many Wicked Edge advocates, but actual hair popping, paper shaving, cut through a dangling piece of paracord with one hand type sharp.



Anybody have any experience with this? I’m sure there is a learning curve, as it is done completely freehand. I’m seriously considering picking up a set of these wheels and a dedicated bench grinder/buffer.

 

[KokomoDave]

I have a bonded paper wheel mounted on the other side of my Kalamazoo slack belt grinder. I strop it with white buffing compound. Some people advocate to use just the wheel itself. They work well. It takes of that wire edge that can form and cleans up the edge a bit.

 

[jsharmon7]

Former member “Tyler” had a similar setup at the 1500 many years ago. He got a Griptilian to shaving sharp pretty quickly. Probably wouldn’t be too expensive at Harbor Freight.

 

[chezuki]

I’m gonna try it... looks like I can be ready to go for less than $100, and I have several older/less expensive blades to practice on.

 

[KokomoDave]

I think I bought mine inexpensively online.

 

[DBH]

I am thinking of turning my grinder into a paper wheel sharpener. I have a 1 x 30” belt sander (jerry hossom post elsewhere) and I have been sharpening that way for a few years. But the paper wheels I have seen some insane sharp edges can be done on.


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[chezuki]

Update, and change of direction:

I skipped the paper wheel stuff and bought a Ken Onion Work Sharp. I could not be happier with this thing.

Knives long retired are back in service with better-than-new edges on them.

 

[Tombs]

I highly recommend forgetting most of these quicker routes unless it's a work shop application where you just need a good enough edge fast, that's where the paper wheel and worksharp do the best. I'd say they get 90% as far as the following system does.

If you want a precision edge every single time, just get the basic KME diamond stone kit. It's relatively inexpensive, especially compared to a lot of other options. Watch some videos on how to use it properly and have some patience with how long it will take to make a dull knife into a terrifying tool. This is especially important if your knife is using a modern super steel as a lot of these other methods, while they will make the knife sharp, the edge won't last as long due to some physical oddities of carbides.

But with a KME you can get any knife tree topping sharp every single time and it will retain that edge for a very long time with a good steel. Don't bother with the lapping and all that other stuff as it's mostly for show, the 1500 grit diamond stone is as fine as any super steel is even sensible to sharpen down to. Some will even prefer just going down to 600.

 

[ghuns]

I keep a set of paper wheels on a bench grinder, mostly for doing my larger fixed blade knives and the kitchen set. Nothing is faster.

On my folders, mostly ZTs with S35VN blades, I occasionally use the non-grit wheel and buffing compound to strop. But the grit wheel gets ate up real fast by the "super" steels.

 

[johny5]

Update, and change of direction:

I skipped the paper wheel stuff and bought a Ken Onion Work Sharp. I could not be happier with this thing.

Knives long retired are back in service with better-than-new edges on them.

I need to bite the bullet and buy one of these. I've heard great things about them.

 

[Expat]

I had a great uncle that used to sharpen people's knives with a paper wheel. That was a long time ago. He definitely got knives super sharp.

 

[Gabriel]

I have a paper wheel for sharpening, but I either use my 2X72 or Wicked Edge.

 

[1DOWN4UP]

I got the KO elite pkg last year.It comes w/ the reg KO 3/4 x12 cassette and a box of belts,and the bigger 1x18 cassette an a box of belts.The whole pkg was 180.00. My cousin made me a rest on his 3-D printer which slides on the guide base which raises you up 2". I use it every time.Also the 1x18 belts last twice as long as the 12" belts.Got on Amzn and picked up leather strop,and assorted belts for 18". Make my paper wheels by cutting cardboard covfefe can circles,stacking,drilling,and use very large fender washers to pinch it. Never run out of paper wheels.

 

[chezuki]

I highly recommend forgetting most of these quicker routes unless it's a work shop application where you just need a good enough edge fast, that's where the paper wheel and worksharp do the best. I'd say they get 90% as far as the following system does.

If you want a precision edge every single time, just get the basic KME diamond stone kit. It's relatively inexpensive, especially compared to a lot of other options. Watch some videos on how to use it properly and have some patience with how long it will take to make a dull knife into a terrifying tool. This is especially important if your knife is using a modern super steel as a lot of these other methods, while they will make the knife sharp, the edge won't last as long due to some physical oddities of carbides.

But with a KME you can get any knife tree topping sharp every single time and it will retain that edge for a very long time with a good steel. Don't bother with the lapping and all that other stuff as it's mostly for show, the 1500 grit diamond stone is as fine as any super steel is even sensible to sharpen down to. Some will even prefer just going down to 600.

I have an edge pro to fill that niche if needed.

 

[flatlander]

As my friend Mike Wood (RIP) use to say " I can dull a 2x4 ". I have tried just about all the bench stone and clamp type sharpeners around to different results. I can get very adequate working edges on them but the razor edge is a very elusive and spotty result! I know, I know, practice practice practice but patience is not one of my virtues. Never pulled the trigger on an electrical sharpener because I've always thought, what if I have no power? May say screw it and try the K.O. though

Bob

 

[Jericho941Fan]

I had a KME that I used, but it was awfully fiddly and I find I just don't need to sharpen my knives enough to justify having that kind of equipment. I usually carry a benchmade or microtech and both of those companies will sharpen for free, so I generally just send them back and switch to something else until I get my knife back from the mfg.

 

[Tombs]

As my friend Mike Wood (RIP) use to say " I can dull a 2x4 ". I have tried just about all the bench stone and clamp type sharpeners around to different results. I can get very adequate working edges on them but the razor edge is a very elusive and spotty result! I know, I know, practice practice practice but patience is not one of my virtues. Never pulled the trigger on an electrical sharpener because I've always thought, what if I have no power? May say screw it and try the K.O. though

Bob

One thing that will go a long way to helping you with consistency is a simple sharpie marker and a loupe.

Mark the edge with a sharpie so you can see where you're removing material and watch as you creep towards the edge and eventually hit it. A loupe will help you be able to see that up close.

 

[ghuns]

...A loupe will help you be able to see that up close.

Spending my whole career in tool shops, I forget the whole world doesn't have one these laying around. But everyone should have one...

OptiVisor

 

[HoosierNation33]

I need to bite the bullet and buy one of these. I've heard great things about them.

First I'm hearing about it... Time to do some research.