Optic to gun cost ratio

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  • Jont22

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    What would the average person consider reasonable to spend on an optic as it relates to the value of the gun? I recently bought a savage mark ii and I’m struggling with a suitable scope. I’d like to have something nice but what’s too much to put into an optic on a $250 gun?

    Personally, Id most likely just use it for plinking, but something versatile would be good. I’d like to hit 100-150 yards. No certain targets.
     
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    2A-Hoosier23

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    I am no expert but I think that question is usually answered best by first determining what your needs are. If you could provide more info that'll help narrow it down so you can get better advice.

    Just to get the ball rolling on
    the "purpose" of this optic. Is this going on a hunting rifle? If so, what kind of game and what location will you be hunting?

    Is it more of a plinking rifle? If so, what distances and kinds of targets will you be shooting at?

    not an exhaustive list of questions, just some to help narrow it down a bit
     

    Leo

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    I cannot tell you what is important to you.

    A hunting journalist of the 1960's recommended a good scope should cost as much as the rifle. I have looked through a $1200 scope and I cannot imagine needing more than that. The manufacturing ability in optics has made big increases. $250 scopes are really pretty good optically, of course features drive the price up.

    Like a lot of gear, call your buddies, look through every one you can. Specs on a web site can help, but some things that look good in an ad can be pretty disappointing once you buy it.
     

    Hookeye

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    I pick my optic on need, not price.

    Certainly, I wish I liked (and could use) cheaper gear. Some stuff just works better. Some stuff just looks better (a Ruger #1 pretty much mandates a gloss Leupold of older design IMHO).

    Last week I once again played the Leupold game of sighting in, done it for decades.

    Sucks to have to pay a grand for a decent scope these days. But it looks like thats where I'm headed. Im really sick of wasting time behind stuff that doesn't work perfectly.
     

    Hookeye

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    FWIW my .35 rem pump wears a 2-7X.
    Had a 4x but my neck is getting worse and I needed to move the scope back just a bit, ring spacing such I said screw it and just went w a longer tube scope I had (the 2-7x). The old M8 4x compact was neat, and I killed deer with it, but it was at the limit of mounting on that rifle and physically my needs changed.

    500 dollar rifle (used price) wears a 200 dollar scope (purchased new- is a VX1).

    I see no need to change that setup now (no pun intended).
    Id have been happy if I had a 1.5-5X to slap on it.
     

    bwframe

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    I prefer to buy moderately pricey scopes used. Putting more money than you'd like in a good QD mount or set of QD rings allows moving expensive glass from gun to gun.

    Thought ahead of time is important when choosing scopes and mounts to be swapped around. Adaptability to hight above bore and eye relief is a consideration.

    Personally, I err on the side of more magnification for long range or varmint guns. You can always dial back, but cannot squeeze more magnification for little targets if needed.

    My advice is to only purchase scopes with mildot or mrad reticles. If given the choice, stay away from hunting holdover reticles. They are plenty usable, but not as readily adaptable to moving around on various rifles.
     

    Hookeye

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    F&S did a test years ago, about field shooting positions, and how much scope mag was best.
    IIRC 6X was the winner.

    How many deer are still running around because some guy had his scope cranked up to 9X and the deer took off close?

    How many have I killed because somebody else flubbed their chance?

    Hmmmm, better edit this post...............

    yeah, everybody needs at LEAST 12X and 50mm afield

    ;)
     
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    Hookeye

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    I run classic hunting rifles, so mounting doesn't really allow scope in rings movement from rifle to rifle.

    If everything was pic rail and precision, might be adaptable like that.

    My 760 has the old low comb stock. Consequently it has a shallow base and low rings.
    My .30-06 has a pic rail that is kinda thick, and runs low rings too. 40mm obj. Rifle has no irons, so stock design was set up for optic use.

    If I went 50mm I'd have to go med, which I tried.........did not care for the cheekweld w the 50mm.

    My rifles do NOT have adj combs.

    I don't shoot head up like Euro, but don't scrunch down hard on the comb like some guys do either.

    Comb height and eye relief have gotten to be more picky as my neck issues have worsened.
    Its more than a pain in the neck to get crap to fit anymore.

    Seems to cause a bit of wallet trauma.
     

    snapping turtle

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    I am still rocking the old optics often because they are on old guns. If the guns was made in 1970 it might have a redfield scope on it. If it was a old marlin lever it might have a vintage weaver. These still go hunting yearly.

    I keep a couple of nice scopes to do accuracy testing. 1/8 inch adjustments per click ect.those do have warne QD rings and move well from some rifles to others. Something’s it takes lots of work to move them but what else do I have to do post on INGO.

    I have nice scopes on long distance guns and optic coatings and to a point glass has come a long way since lots of my old scopes were made. The weaver fixed power target scopes have always worked well for target shooting for me.

    I feel most comfortable with 4x to 6x for pigs and deer. 9-12 max for fox and coyotes. One of my main guns just has a Japanese Tasso 4 power on a 243 mainly used for coyotes and deer now that laws changed. The scope has been on that rifle since my uncle owed it. I see no need to change it here. If I was going out west then yes I would change it up.
     

    Jont22

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    I am no expert but I think that question is usually answered best by first determining what your needs are. If you could provide more info that'll help narrow it down so you can get better advice.

    Just to get the ball rolling on
    the "purpose" of this optic. Is this going on a hunting rifle? If so, what kind of game and what location will you be hunting?

    Is it more of a plinking rifle? If so, what distances and kinds of targets will you be shooting at?

    not an exhaustive list of questions, just some to help narrow it down a bit

    Most likely just for plinking, but something versatile. I’d like to hit 100-150 yards. No certain targets.
     

    russc2542

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    Sorry, no easy answer lol

    What's your budget? Get the best you can afford. Nobody ever wished for cheaper glass or less ammo (aside from swimming).
    "Plinking" is super vague. Do you want to throw ammo at a 24" steel plate or hit a 1" bull?
    How old are you? How are your eyes? how much zoom do you need to see your chosen target at 100+ yards?

    Match the optic to what you're doing with it and your budget. $150 optic's a $150 optic whether it's mounted on a $200 rifle or a $2000 rifle. Get the good stuff, even if it means putting a $1000 scope on a $200 rifle. Your eyes will thank you if you're looking through the scope for more than a few seconds at a time. Also, you can get a lot more rimfire scope for the money than centerfire because the centerfire scope has to be built beefier to handle recoil.

    Pay attention to brands, a budget-line premium brand scope might be better than a premium line budget brand scope.

    If you don't need a variable zoom, having a fixed magnification can drastically cut the cost (or put much better glass in for the same cost)

    Do you wear contacts/glasses? cheap glass in a scope's like having your glasses close to the right prescription. Having good scopes is like having the lenses perfectly cut from premium material to correct for astigmatism and anything else that might be wrong.

    Similar for ammo. Lots of people rag on rimfires having bad accuracy while they're trying to shove whatever cheap garbage ammo they found at an estate sale through it. halfway decent ammo (lowest grade eley, not tenex or anything crazy) will make most rimfires a 1-2moa gun.
     

    Hookeye

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    Heck, I thought I read on this site you can easily do that with a pistol and iron sites! :draw:
    You can, but a 2X scope on a handgun does help ;)

    A RDS or reflex on a handgun, cool. A scope on a rifle, cool.
    That in between stuff (scoped specialty pistol).........expensive and a hassle IMHO.
    With IN allowing PCR and rifle, the specialty pistol game is a hasbeen.
     
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    ditcherman

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    In the country, hopefully.
    Since your asking… I’ll assume you haven’t had a lot of experience at it.
    Go look through $150 and $250 glass, and then look through a piece of thousand dollar glass, and then buy what you can afford (maybe you won’t see a difference) and what fits for now. You can then wish for and save for the nice glass.
    Once I looked through and owned the $1000 glass that’s all I want now, and that’s a problem.

    I do think there’s a pretty good quality/longevity/durability gain between 150 and 250-300.
    I just won’t buy the $150, I’d rather sell the rifle.

    A big part of my love for my Trijicons is that at low power that scope just absolutely disappears with both eyes open. Gun shop owner said “look through this” and I was pulling out my billfold as I set it down. So don’t go there first unless you can afford it.
     
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