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  • gregkl

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    I saw a video the other day where the instructor was saying that if the dot is not in view, it is generally up above. This is true for me. He said a squeeze of your pinky finger will bring the muzzle down and dot in view.

    I may try it, but I am finding that lots of reps work best for me.

    I just tried it (benefit of working from home). It does work.
     

    wtburnette

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    I saw a video the other day where the instructor was saying that if the dot is not in view, it is generally up above. This is true for me. He said a squeeze of your pinky finger will bring the muzzle down and dot in view.

    I may try it, but I am finding that lots of reps work best for me.

    I just tried it (benefit of working from home). It does work.

    That's one of the selling points for the new Walther PDP. Watched a Colion Noir video where he ran the gun with a couple of Walther guys and they were telling him to squeeze the pinky to bring the dot down correctly and Colion was marveling about how well it worked.
     

    gregkl

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    That's one of the selling points for the new Walther PDP. Watched a Colion Noir video where he ran the gun with a couple of Walther guys and they were telling him to squeeze the pinky to bring the dot down correctly and Colion was marveling about how well it worked.
    That was where I saw it! I couldn't remember. You know, being old and all...
     

    MCgrease08

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    MCgrease, have you got your milling done yet?
    My slide has been at Primary Machine in Louisiana since Jan. 25th. Lead time on their site says 4-6 weeks so I'm still in the front portion of that window. Every day I'm a little disappointed that I haven't gotten an update. Many reviews on their site are from people saying they got their slides back early.

    But since my red dot came a month early, I am still ahead of schedule overall from what I expected when I ordered the optic.
     

    gregkl

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    My slide has been at Primary Machine in Louisiana since Jan. 25th. Lead time on their site says 4-6 weeks so I'm still in the front portion of that window. Every day I'm a little disappointed that I haven't gotten an update. Many reviews on their site are from people saying they got their slides back early.

    But since my red dot came a month early, I am still ahead of schedule overall from what I expected when I ordered the optic.
    You never know in our current crazy world! I sent mine to DP on 07/03 and got it back on 07/27. It was supposed to take 6 weeks since I had the slide refinished. They must have slipped mine in somehow and shaved off some time.
     

    bwframe

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    ...I may try it, but I am finding that lots of reps work best for me...
    Regardless of whatever adjustment, it seems that the reps make all the difference (as obijohn told us in the top of this thread.)

    I can see that when I get lazy and don't pay close enough attention to this, the dot doesn't fall where it needs to when I'm pushing out.
     

    gregkl

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    Regardless of whatever adjustment, it seems that the reps make all the difference (as obijohn told us in the top of this thread.)

    I can see that when I get lazy and don't pay close enough attention to this, the dot doesn't fall where it needs to when I'm pushing out.
    And if I lay off dry fire for a few days or a week, it really shows at the range. My first shot takes forever. After that my follow up shots are fine for my level of proficiency, but I spend at least 4X getting that first shot off than I do the second.
     

    bwframe

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    Interesting argument on dot size in the middle of this vid. Also, a pretty good reference to the usability of the 32MOA circle according to body size and the like.

     
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    gregkl

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    Interesting argument on dot size in the middle of this vid. Also, a pretty good reference to the usability of the 32MOA circle according to body size and the like.


    I found that in my life concerning dot size. I had a 2 MOA dot or whatever the 407C was. I turned it up to see it better only to get a starburst effect. When I got my RMR with the 6.5 MOA dot, I can keep the setting low giving me a nice round dot and it doesn't "get in my way" of seeing the target.
     

    gregkl

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    That's one of the selling points for the new Walther PDP. Watched a Colion Noir video where he ran the gun with a couple of Walther guys and they were telling him to squeeze the pinky to bring the dot down correctly and Colion was marveling about how well it worked.
    Slight thread drift but that PDP looks very interesting. But I won't buy one. When you buy one, don't let me shoot it! :)
     

    MCgrease08

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    My slide has been at Primary Machine in Louisiana since Jan. 25th. Lead time on their site says 4-6 weeks so I'm still in the front portion of that window. Every day I'm a little disappointed that I haven't gotten an update. Many reviews on their site are from people saying they got their slides back early.

    But since my red dot came a month early, I am still ahead of schedule overall from what I expected when I ordered the optic.
    I got the email update today that my slide and red dot are on the way back to me.
     

    MCgrease08

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    Now that I'm in the red dot game, I've been looking into the debate about the best distance to zero the dot. I used the free ballistics calculator on Federal's website to plug in various zero distances for 9mm. The results were pretty interesting and I thought it was worth sharing as I haven't seen this laid out anywhere else.

    You can use the calculator to adjust for all types of variables like air temperature, elevation above sea level, wind speed, height over bore, etc. But I kept things very simple to start. All were done using 60 degree temps, 800 feet above sea level with 10 mph winds and a height over bore distance of 0.9 inches (distance of dot to center of barrel). Your height may vary depending on how your MRS is mounted, but these are meant to be general numbers. 10 and 15 yard zero calculations were done using 115gr FMJ, with the 25 yd zero using 124gr Federal HST (my carry ammo). There were very minor deviations of 0.1" at three of the 20 distances compared to 115gr FMJ, but that's not significant enough IMO to spend the time to write them down.

    Now the results. Each chart shows the distance from the target and the drop/rise in the Point of Impact compared to Point of Aim at that distance.

    With a 10 yd zero:
    IMG_20210311_095335192~2-1638x1229.jpg

    15 yd zero:
    IMG_20210311_095349983~2-1638x1229.jpg

    25 yd zero:
    IMG_20210310_165751206-1638x1229.jpg

    My reticle (Holosun with ACSS Vulcan) is designed to be zeroed at 25 yards, so that's what I went with. But if I had an RMR or other red dot with a plain circle dot, I would probably choose the 15 yard zero based on these numbers. That ensures your POI is pretty much +/- a quarter of an inch at all distances between 5-50 yards.

    10 yards is interesting because the total distances up or down are the smallest range over all, but POI shifts at more distances under 50 yards. But drop off at 100 is the least if you care about that.

    25 yards starts to drop like a stone past 70 yards, but you're fairly flat between 10 - 35 yards.

    All in all I thought this was pretty cool to see laid out. Hopefully it helps somebody else figure out where they want to zero their red dot.

    Here's the calculator if you want to play around with it.

     
    Last edited:

    bwframe

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    Now that I'm in the red dot game, I've been looking into the debate about the best distance to zero the dot. I used the free ballistics calculator on Federal's website to plug in various zero distances for 9mm. The results were pretty interesting and I thought it was worth sharing as I haven't seen this laid out anywhere else.

    You can use the calculator to adjust for all types of variables like air temperature, elevation above sea level, wind speed, height over bore, etc. But I kept things very simple to start. All were done using 60 degree temps, 800 feet above sea level with 10 mph winds and a height over bore distance of 0.9 inches (distance of dot to center of barrel). Your height may vary depending on how your MRS is mounted, but these are meant to be general numbers. 10 and 15 yard zero calculations were done using 115gr FMJ, with the 25 yd zero using 124gr Federal HST (my carry ammo). There were very minor deviations of 0.1" at three of the 20 distances compared to 115gr FMJ, but that's not significant enough IMO to spend the time to write them down.

    Now the results. Each chart shows the distance from the target and the drop/rise in the Point of Impact compared to Point of Aim at that distance.

    With a 10 yd zero:
    View attachment 130057

    15 yd zero:
    View attachment 130058

    25 yd zero:
    View attachment 130059

    My reticle (Holosun with ACSS Vulcan) is designed to be zeroed at 25 yards, so that's what I went with. But if I had an RMR or other red dot with a plain circle dot, I would probably choose the 15 yard zero based on these numbers. That ensures your POI is pretty much +/- a quarter of an inch at all distances between 5-50 yards.

    10 yards is interesting because the total distances up or down are the smallest range over all, but POI shifts at more distances under 50 yards. But drop off at 100 is the least if you care about that.

    25 yards starts to drop like a stone past 70 yards, but you're fairly flat between 10 - 35 yards.

    All in all I thought this was pretty cool to see laid out. Hopefully it helps somebody else figure out where they want to zero their red dot.

    Here's the calculator if you want to play around with it.

    This is great work. Thank you so much for the info! I downloaded your 25 yard zero chart from the other thread to use as reference. Just added the 10 yard.

    The 10 yard chart looks very interesting for a no calculation solution? For close and far, aim a dot diameter high, everything else dot on?

    I shoot 147's as a rule, so everything will have to be tested with real bullets.

    I applaud you folks that can shoot with the precision that makes anything past 20-25ish yards much of a consideration for realistic acceptable "groups." :)

    Maybe my new-ish hardware and sighting system will fix this all for my older eyes?
     
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