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New Handgun Purchases...Too many options....Which Backstrap to use?
- Thread starter foszoe
- Start date
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The mistake that most folks make is choosing a backstrap that's too large. Seriously. Smaller backstraps will help the shooter reach the trigger better. And by better, it'll allow a more neutral press to the rear vs. the finger reaching too far and, therefore, adding lateral stresses to the mix.
So - start small.
So - start small.
I try to make sure I can reach all the controls on the gun (especially the mag release button) as best I can without having to adjust my grip slightly.
This usually means keeping the factory backstrap on or switching to smaller ones or, in the case of a G19 gen 5, taking the backstrap off altogether. I've yet to switch to a larger backstrap or added a beavertail or anything like that.
I wear size medium/large gloves if that makes any difference
This usually means keeping the factory backstrap on or switching to smaller ones or, in the case of a G19 gen 5, taking the backstrap off altogether. I've yet to switch to a larger backstrap or added a beavertail or anything like that.
I wear size medium/large gloves if that makes any difference
Buddy has an HK P30 that we switched to a smaller back and sides after shooting a handful of sessions. HK comes with 3 sets of side and back straps.
Felt like a totally different gun and much better fit for both of us. Could not wait to shoot it with smaller grip but unfortunately his Wife became ill and he has not been shooting since.
Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
Felt like a totally different gun and much better fit for both of us. Could not wait to shoot it with smaller grip but unfortunately his Wife became ill and he has not been shooting since.
Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
I searched for some kind of measurement to determine backstrap selection, even reached out to that Botkin kid after he did a video on finger placement. I know I overthink stuff too much and he confirmed it when he replied; "grip it and rip it!" lol.
I started out with the medium on my 2.0 Compact, but have since moved down to the small. Like TF said, I think it's easy to get too big.
I'd say pick one and work it. After all, there was a time when we couldn't change those out and we adapted.
I started out with the medium on my 2.0 Compact, but have since moved down to the small. Like TF said, I think it's easy to get too big.
I'd say pick one and work it. After all, there was a time when we couldn't change those out and we adapted.
Don't overthink it. Try them all and use the one that feels most comfortable to you.
Throw the other ones in a drawer somewhere and forget about them.
I use no backstrap on my Gen 5 Glocks and the smallest backstrap on my M&Ps.
Easy peasy, lemon squeezy.
Throw the other ones in a drawer somewhere and forget about them.
I use no backstrap on my Gen 5 Glocks and the smallest backstrap on my M&Ps.
Easy peasy, lemon squeezy.
Some have suggested starting large and working down.
I suggest starting with "none" if you can, or the smallest if you must fit a panel. I think that the end-user will find the best fit more quickly this way (IE - smaller grips will probably be better anyhow), so might as well start on that end of the line.
For reference: I'm 6'2" tall. I have proportional hands to my size. They're not gargantuan hands - and they're actually probably smaller now that I've not been doing manual labor as a job for a long time. Continuing - my hands are not small, either. Smaller panels work better for me.
With hand anatomy, when you create a gripping motion, you are contracting lots of "stuff". Muscles (relatively few, actually), tendons, ligaments, etc. Contracted "stuff" often times means that all that "stuff" is now chubbier. What happens when you contract your bicep muscles? They pop up and out and get big, right? Same principle applies when grasping (flexing) the hand.
One of the big culprits are the relatively large muscles that help articulate the thumb inward. When this flexes, it takes up more space.
So - in order to have enough space for your hand to do what hands need to do, there should probably be less of whatever it is being grasped in order for the whole system to work together better.
That said - a person can absolutely adapt and overcome systems that are not ideal. I once read a story about a new cop who was issued a 3rd Gen S&W auto as a duty gun. Huge grip, long reach to the trigger. Dude had a HORRIBLE time shooting it. But he spent hundreds of his own dollars and hundreds of his own hours shooting and training his hands to shoot that gun better.
We now have the luxury of accelerating that learning curve with all these grip configurations.
My advice, as a nobody and as an expert in nothing, is to start small and work upwards. I also suggest vetting all of the above because I didn't sleep at a Holiday Inn Express last night.
I suggest starting with "none" if you can, or the smallest if you must fit a panel. I think that the end-user will find the best fit more quickly this way (IE - smaller grips will probably be better anyhow), so might as well start on that end of the line.
For reference: I'm 6'2" tall. I have proportional hands to my size. They're not gargantuan hands - and they're actually probably smaller now that I've not been doing manual labor as a job for a long time. Continuing - my hands are not small, either. Smaller panels work better for me.
With hand anatomy, when you create a gripping motion, you are contracting lots of "stuff". Muscles (relatively few, actually), tendons, ligaments, etc. Contracted "stuff" often times means that all that "stuff" is now chubbier. What happens when you contract your bicep muscles? They pop up and out and get big, right? Same principle applies when grasping (flexing) the hand.
One of the big culprits are the relatively large muscles that help articulate the thumb inward. When this flexes, it takes up more space.
So - in order to have enough space for your hand to do what hands need to do, there should probably be less of whatever it is being grasped in order for the whole system to work together better.
That said - a person can absolutely adapt and overcome systems that are not ideal. I once read a story about a new cop who was issued a 3rd Gen S&W auto as a duty gun. Huge grip, long reach to the trigger. Dude had a HORRIBLE time shooting it. But he spent hundreds of his own dollars and hundreds of his own hours shooting and training his hands to shoot that gun better.
We now have the luxury of accelerating that learning curve with all these grip configurations.
My advice, as a nobody and as an expert in nothing, is to start small and work upwards. I also suggest vetting all of the above because I didn't sleep at a Holiday Inn Express last night.
I think this is good advice. Other than a pocket gun like a J-Frame or the P365/Hellcat, I really have not found handguns that are "too small" for my hand. I'm not 6'2" but I have German hands which tend to run a little larger than my 5' 11", 170 lb frame would have.
I have had pistols that were too large though with either too fat of a grip or too long of a reach to the trigger. Or both.
Recently I pulled my 1911 out of hibernation and realized that I would probably benefit from those "slim" grip panels. When I was shooting it, I was fine. Now that I have a couple years on my M&P with the small backstrap, the 1911 feels a little "big" to me.
