LG Dryer not heating issue.

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  • foszoe

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    Title kinda says it. Flashing an nP error code which means power issue.

    Unplugged Dryer.
    Multimeter checked the 3 prong wall plug outlet. 120V to N, 120V to N, 240 across.
    Plugged In Dryer
    Multimeter at Dryer Terminals with the dryer off 120V to N, 120V to N 240 across.
    Unplugged Dryer
    Checked the cord for continuity. Tone on all 3 wires.
    Turn Dryer on,
    Multimeter at dryer terminals, 120V to N, 120V to N, 0 across.
    After running a bit error code nP flashes.
    Check Dryer Terminals again. 120V to N, 65V to N. 170V across.
    Unplug Dryer
    Turn off Circuit Breaker
    Check Wall outlet
    I am still reading a 60 Hz Frequency with 1/10 of a volt on the 2 hots.

    I am thinking I have a breaker issue but I am more used to CB either tripping or not, or seeing 1/2 of the double pole fail.

    I should mention this is the second dryer that has failed to heat in the last 6 months. The first one I just spot tested the voltage and continuity on and assumed its old and the heater element failed. Planned to repair it and sell it so its in the garage right now. But 2 failing to heat makes me think maybe its the circuit.

    Anybody hear have any thoughts? Mostly about reading a freq on an "open" breaker. That don't seem right.
     
    Last edited:

    printcraft

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    Uranus
    61v20Blx7zL.__AC_SY300_SX300_QL70_FMwebp_.jpg


    Remember to kill your main before proceeding...
     

    Sigblitz

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    For legal reasons, my advice is have a qualified electrician

    measure incoming voltage, then at the bus bar, to the breaker, across the breaker, to the plug, across the plug.

    It will be bus bar, breaker, wiring, plug, or loose connection. Something is heating up and showing a fall in potential. You just have to find it.
     

    foszoe

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    Disassembled the plug and checking all those connections out. I am beginning to suspect the plug wiring. I have steady 120/240 to the bare wires at the wall plug.
     

    Leo

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    Recheck the hot legs to neutral at the main breaker. If the voltages to neutral are changing or jumping around, you have a floating neutral in the supply. That is on the power company, it is a pretty common complaint. You DO NOT want to try to compensate it on your end, or you will be the bonded neutral for every house being fed by that transformer.

    The 60hz at 1/10th volts is not real. It is because you are using a sensitive electronic multimeter instead of a power electricians tool. You are just reading induced emf because the wires run close to each other in the wall. When in doubt, put test leads on a 40 watt incandescent light bulb. The real load of the bulb will cancel the induced voltages that are not really there for practical purposes.

    Dryers have a string of permissive safety switches, such as air flow, door, permission from a module, at least one over temp switch, etc, before heat can come on, If the door light comes on and the drum will turn, it is not a wall power issue.

    Good luck
     
    Last edited:

    foszoe

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    Plug had some corrosion going on, swapped it out, have dryer heat. Thanks for all the responses! Only thing I can think of was the vibrations of the dryer shook the cord/plug just enough that I could test it ok by jamming leads in there when it was sitting still.
     
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