Let’s talk chainsaws

[Mark-DuCo]

CS 400
Longer bar, more cc's, better warranty, cheaper price. I also thought it had better balance. Compared to Stihl

I have this same saw, and I love it. Plenty of power to cut all the firewood i need and light enough that it doesn't kill my back.

 

[indyjohn]

Speaking of hotrodding chainsaws....

 

[Gd999]

Stihl all the way. I paid around $400 for the ms181cbe with a case. Tried to have Sullivan’s get it for a month, called Reynolds farm and they had it ready in a day. It’s only 16” bar, but it’s the nicest homeowner line they have. Definitely get one with a primer. I know the cbe stands for primer and the easy start where it winds up then starts. It’s great.

https://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/homeowner-saws/ms181cbe/

Also, buy some fuel or stihl oil mix with the saw as it extends your warranty.

 

[USA#1]

I like my chainsaws like I like my dirt bikes, orange, black, and white. (Had to get some KTM love in there). Seriously though, Stihl for the win. My MS250 has been serving me well for years with no problems at all. At a price of $299 at the time, it has paid for itself.

 

[pitbulld45]

Love this thread, I have been looking at the Stihl's, but have a dumb question. How do you know if it is a commercial grade chainsaw, is it the "c' after the model number? Any suggestions for a commercial grade with a 20" blade?

 

[tmschuller]

Love this thread, I have been looking at the Stihl's, but have a dumb question. How do you know if it is a commercial grade chainsaw, is it the "c' after the model number? Any suggestions for a commercial grade with a 20" blade?

Not sure on the designated models.
To my knowledge the will have the compression release button and the quick adjustment ( tool less) for the chain. Commercial models come in all sizes but the MS291 or 331 are great saws. Not too heavy and plenty of power.. but what size of a saw or how much you would use it came into play for me. I heat with wood and I don’t use the ms250’s I have or the 029 much. I run my 331 or 460 for 90 percent of my cutting. Just work faster and better. But this works for me . Hope this helps. If you want to come over and cut for a few days to see how you like the saws feel free.. I would appreciate it!

 

[ghuns]

When I bought my outdoor boiler about 12 years ago and went chainsaw shopping, my first stop was at the Stihl dealer. I was looking for a pro saw that would run a 20" bar easily and a 24" if need be. I knew a little about what Stihls and what Husqvarnas would fit the bill.

The salesman at the Stihl dealer immediately started bashing Husqvarnas, they're POSs, garbage, total junk... Not a word about why his saws were actually better, just that everybody else's sucked. I thanked him and left.

When I went to my Husky dealer and told him what Stihl saws I was considering he said, those are all great saws. You'd probably be very happy with any one of them. He then showed me the comparable Husky models and invited me outside to try each one out.

I left with a Husky 359 and my only regret is that I didn't buy the 372. At the time, as a novice, the 372 scared me to death. That 359 is still my only saw and has cut mountains worth of wood.

 

[Jaybird1980]

When I bought my outdoor boiler about 12 years ago and went chainsaw shopping, my first stop was at the Stihl dealer. I was looking for a pro saw that would run a 20" bar easily and a 24" if need be. I knew a little about what Stihls and what Husqvarnas would fit the bill.

The salesman at the Stihl dealer immediately started bashing Husqvarnas, they're POSs, garbage, total junk... Not a word about why his saws were actually better, just that everybody else's sucked. I thanked him and left.

When I went to my Husky dealer and told him what Stihl saws I was considering he said, those are all great saws. You'd probably be very happy with any one of them. He then showed me the comparable Husky models and invited me outside to try each one out.

I left with a Husky 359 and my only regret is that I didn't buy the 372. At the time, as a novice, the 372 scared me to death. That 359 is still my only saw and has cut mountains worth of wood.

When I got the outdoor boiler I started with a Stihl 310. 10 years later I put a 390 jug/piston on it. Great size and power. I have a buddy who has a Husky 372 and a 572 and those things rip also.
I think it comes down to whose parts are available local for me. Stihl parts are available 2 places in town. Husk parts are 40min away.

 

[shadow64]

I think my echo is much easier to start than all the stihls i have owned and have had fewer problems with echo just my 2 cents worth

 

[tmschuller]

I took 12 chains in to sharpen.. have to work today but headed out after work to cut on a big pin oak that fell. Nothing like a newly sharpened chain to start off with!

 

[2in1evtime]

I bought Sachs dolmars back in the 80's and they are still going strong!!!!!!!!!

 

[indyjohn]

It appears that I have toasted the bar on the MS271. I spent a good amount of time Saturday cutting the white oak logs into 16" rounds. About 3/4ths of the way through that task, I stopped and shut off the saw to reposition and mark logs. When I restarted the saw it acted as if the brake was on, so I pulled the guard back and got the same result. After engaging the brake and pulling the guard back hard a couple of times, same result. I shut off the saw with intent to unbolt the bar and figure out what had failed (bar sprocket? clutch?).

Upon disassembly, it occurred to me that the bar was dry and the chain didn't want to travel down the channel. The sprocket was fine, the clutch was fine too. I checked the oil reservoir - nearly full. Hum. Looking closer, it appeared the oil galley on the bar was clogged, so I cleared that. I cleared the chain channel of sawdust and added oil to the channel and that made the chain move down the channel again. I started the powerhead without the bar and gave it a couple of blips and I see oil coming out of the port, so, ok, the galley was clogged. First time I've seen that in 4 years of ownership but ok. Was that ~enough~ oil? I have no idea. So, I put it all back together and it runs for a few more minutes and I get the same result after shutting down and restarting again. I stopped using it at that point.

I'm about to order a replacement bar. I'm asking if anyone has any first-hand experience with this situation and can advise if I need to chase some other issue down (like an oil supply diaphragm or some such) before I put the new $70 bar on.

Thanks in advance.



Those are white oak rounds at 16" diameter by 16" length. Log Weight Pro app tells me they weigh 137 lbs each!

 

[bocefus78]

Your bar gap should be around .065 inch. The chain drivers should measure .063 thick. Did you get it pinched anywhere while cutting? Did the chain get thrown while cutting?

Those saws seem to eat oil worm gears for whatever reason.

If it was truly just a clogged oil hole on the bar, oil would have been dripping profusely from under the clutch cover. If it wasn't, I'd highly suggest an inspection of the oil pump and worm gear assy.

 

[tmschuller]

Maintenance tip for the day.. always clean out under the sprocket cover often.. I carry an old toothbrush with me in my box when I head out.. tools and extra nut or two for the bar.. rags.. chains and smaller bars. I blow out the air filter and the whole saw.. depending on how often and what I cut. Some wood cuts dusty..? Anyway some I get into makes more dust and of course
Replacement bar.. stihl is good but I order all bars and chains thru Bailey’s online. Asplundh up here use the same stuff I buy and talking with them it’s good to go products. Woodland Pro is the line they carry and OEM. Their chain holds up well for me and it’s cheaper. Just trying to help!

 

[indyjohn]

Your bar gap should be around .065 inch. The chain drivers should measure .063 thick. Did you get it pinched anywhere while cutting? Did the chain get thrown while cutting?

Those saws seem to eat oil worm gears for whatever reason.

If it was truly just a clogged oil hole on the bar, oil would have been dripping profusely from under the clutch cover. If it wasn't, I'd highly suggest an inspection of the oil pump and worm gear assy.

No pinch, didn't throw the chain, bar gap is .070, chain drive .065". Now it seems the bar sprocket isn't turning freely, so I'm definitely replacing that bar. I'm also going to take the powerhead apart and get a look at that oiler worm gear.

 

[bocefus78]

No pinch, didn't throw the chain, bar gap is .070, chain drive .065". Now it seems the bar sprocket isn't turning freely, so I'm definitely replacing that bar. I'm also going to take the powerhead apart and get a look at that oiler worm gear.

Sprocket tip failures are not super common but they do happen. You can grease it, but once greased, constant greasing is necessary as it attracts crud.

Take bar in both hands while wearing gloves. Put sprocket tip on a board or workbench. Push down and forward. It should free up.
Edit to add:

Once freed up, run saw with cardboard under bar tip.....oil should fling off if properly oiling. It will easily show on cardboard

 

[Mike Maddox]

Look at the Stihl, Husky, or Jonsereds pro saws from a servicing dealer. Get extra chains and the the correct size files, plus a Carlton Fil-A-Plate. As far as size, for a 20 inch bar with chisel chain, you will want at least a 70 cc saw.

 

[INgunner54]

Only thing I recommend is buy something from a competent dealer in your area. You can have the best saw in the world, but they all break at some point. It's worth it's weight in gold when you need service and your dealer is close and knows what the hell they're doing.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

 

[indyjohn]

It's the oil pump. Definitely the oil pump. Definitely.






When I started it was all kinds of krudded up. Sticky bar oil and sawdust.

 

[indyjohn]

Those saws seem to eat oil worm gears for whatever reason.

If it was truly just a clogged oil hole on the bar, oil would have been dripping profusely from under the clutch cover. If it wasn't, I'd highly suggest an inspection of the oil pump and worm gear assy.

Word.

There's so much slop between the worm gear and the pump, I'll guess the pump turns a 1/3 of the gear rotations.