How to polish a stainless steel pistol?

[THE BIG SITT]

I've got a 1911 in SS that I wouldn't mind polishing. What is the best way to do this? I've never really done anything like this, so I want to make sure I don't mess it up.

 

[Sirshredalot]

A can for mothers mag and aluminum polish, a package of cotten rags, and a free afternoon.

Polish with steady pressure in small circles until the rag turns black, move to a clean section of rag and continue.
I did a model 66 this way and it turned out very nicely.

God bless
-Shred

 

[looney2ns]

A can for mothers mag and aluminum polish, a package of cotten rags, and a free afternoon.

Polish with steady pressure in small circles until the rag turns black, move to a clean section of rag and continue.
I did a model 66 this way and it turned out very nicely.

God bless
-Shred

Can minor scratches be removed this way?

 

[Sirshredalot]

You can remove minor scratches with polishing, but if it is a scratch that you can feel...it won't come out.

 

[hrearden]

You can actually polish round surfaces on a wheel just like you do a regular steel gun before bluing. Doing that today myself as a matter of fact. You may not wanna try this, however, until you have practiced on a scrap piece of steel as polishing on a wheel is a task that is unlike any other.

 

[Cameramonkey]

You can actually polish round surfaces on a wheel just like you do a regular steel gun before bluing. Doing that today myself as a matter of fact. You may not wanna try this, however, until you have practiced on a scrap piece of steel as polishing on a wheel is a task that is unlike any other.

THIS!

I put a nice shine on an otherwise not so noteworthy chamber of my Kimber. Its not perfect, but still better than what used to look like cast pot metal. I dont think I'd use my wheel on any other parts but the small exposed area of the chamber was perfect.

 

[THE BIG SITT]

A can for mothers mag and aluminum polish, a package of cotten rags, and a free afternoon.

Polish with steady pressure in small circles until the rag turns black, move to a clean section of rag and continue.
I did a model 66 this way and it turned out very nicely.

God bless
-Shred

Hmmm... I think this is the what I will go on Sunday. Do you do small sections at a time, or something more like the left side of the frame>>the right side of the frame>>ect. ?

 

[churchmouse]

I have buffing wheels I picked up at harbor freight. Also 3 levels of polish in stick form. Rough cut for scratches medium for more clean up and fine to put a polish on it. It is a bit of work and can be messy. Also requires full attention.

 

[BehindBlueI's]

I want to see before and after pics. Of the gun. Pervs.

 

[Sirshredalot]

I start in one spot...usually closest to the hammer, and finish an entire side before I move to the next so I can monitor the progress....it's not hard though.

You can always go back and repo list anything that doesn't look uniform...just be very careful on stamped letters and numbers and most people recommend not polishing the top of the slide to prevent a glare when shooting.

God bless and good luck
-Shred

 

[looney2ns]

I have buffing wheels I picked up at harbor freight. Also 3 levels of polish in stick form. Rough cut for scratches medium for more clean up and fine to put a polish on it. It is a bit of work and can be messy. Also requires FULL attention.

I fixed it for ya CM.

As a youth in high school, I got a job at a local music store that rehabbed brass instruments. They tore them completely down, fixed all the dings and such, they handed them to me to go polish them on a buffing wheel. Loads of fun....NOT.

 

[SSGSAD]

I want to see before and after pics. Of the gun. Pervs.

YES, me too .....

 

[ModernGunner]

Jeweler's rouge. it's specifically made for fine polishing on metal.

 

[churchmouse]

Jeweler's rouge. it's specifically made for fine polishing on metal.

If memory serves there are different grades of rouge. Back/grey/white if I am not mistaken.

 

[ModernGunner]

If memory serves there are different grades of rouge. Back/grey/white if I am not mistaken.

Well, technically the 'jewelers' rough is red. But yes, there are different colors for different grits. A green specifically for stainless steel, as well as the black / grey / white you mentioned, a brown, a blue, maybe even some others.

Of course, it also depends on how high of a shine the OP prefers. JMO, probably start off with the green to get rid of minor scratches, etc., then move to something like red if a high polish is preferred. I prefer to remove scratches, etc. but leave something of a smooth, matte finish rather an a mirror finish. But that's my 'thing'.

I like the bars because they're easy to manipulate with handguns, which tend to have have lots of 'nooks & crannies'. While polishing the larger areas, the bar can be worked into a 'pencil point' to use in those tight spots. They're also less messy than polishing creams and compounds, IMO. And as noted, they're specifically made for fine metals (but there are bars for plastics). AND, they're pretty cheap, with a 4 oz. bar costing in the neighborhood of $2 (depending on where it's purchased, of course)

 

[churchmouse]

Well, technically the 'jewelers' rough is red. But yes, there are different colors for different grits. A green specifically for stainless steel, as well as the black / grey / white you mentioned, a brown, a blue, maybe even some others.

Of course, it also depends on how high of a shine the OP prefers. JMO, probably start off with the green to get rid of minor scratches, etc., then move to something like red if a high polish is preferred. I prefer to remove scratches, etc. but leave something of a smooth, matte finish rather an a mirror finish. But that's my 'thing'.

I like the bars because they're easy to manipulate with handguns, which tend to have have lots of 'nooks & crannies'. While polishing the larger areas, the bar can be worked into a 'pencil point' to use in those tight spots. They're also less messy than polishing creams and compounds, IMO. And as noted, they're specifically made for fine metals (but there are bars for plastics). AND, they're pretty cheap, with a 4 oz. bar costing in the neighborhood of $2 (depending on where it's purchased, of course)

Thats what I thought.
I have the colors I mentioned but it is not labeled as rouge just polish. When properly used with a good wheel it lays out a very nice finish.

 

[VN Vet]

I too use Mother's Mag Polish, but I also have an use Flitz Metal, Plastic and Fiberglass Polish. Attach a polishing wheel to your Dremil or to your bench grinder and go at it. If you go too far with the brightness, you can use a green scouring pad to give it a brushed finish. Use your scouring pad in one direction only please. I find this work to be somewhat therapeutic.

 

[88E30M50]

I'd avoid the Dremel for polishing unless you have an unusually steady hand. Years ago, I polished a stainless PPK and used a Dremel on some spots. All it takes is just one slip and the chuck will leave a permanent ding in the metal. I'm a fan of hand polishing now. There's nothing like sitting down to watch something like 'Band of Brothers' with a disassembled stainless gun, a tub of Mothers and some rags.

 

[Drail]

NO DREMEL! PLEASE! Not unless you like the "rippled" look. A high polish finish will show every tiny little scratch in the future. That is one of the reasons manufacturers started using brushed and bead blast finishes (that and they're cheaper to do with unskilled labor). Back in the old days when Colt and S&W used to do high polished finishes on all of their guns a guy would go into a training program and train for 3 years before he was allowed to polish a frame out. It does take some skill and it's very easy to mess stuff up. S&W had a room full of polishing wheels that were handmade by their employees - hundreds of them - all contouresd to different shapes for different parts of the guns. Try to polish a gun with just one wheel or a Dremel and you probably won't be happy with the result.

 

[churchmouse]

The pic is an older Springer G-I I picked up that was in terrible shape. Looked like it lived under a bucket seat for a long time.
It took some time but I re-finished the bead blasted finish and polished out the rest.
The polishing was 1st. Taped off and then bead blasted the rough finish areas.
Again....time consuming and tedious.



I did put a new set of grips on it. lowered the ejection port before the re-finish