Hard Chrome idiot scratch

[peterock]

So a while back I had my Colt Series 70 hard chromed. Once finished and returned I dissembled and upon reassembly gave it a nice idiot scratch.

I’m curious if I can simply have the slide and frame bead blasted to help mask it? I know it can’t be “fixed” without re-coating just thinking of options. Don’t really want to polish as I prefer the matte look

 

[peterock]

2

 

[KG1]

I bought a used DW Valor awhile back that had a sight idiot scratch from the previous owner on the frame. I got it for a good price. I then took it to a local coating business and had them cerekote the frame and left the slide untouched. It only cost about $160 and and took care of the scratch like it was'nt even there. it was well worth it. Even with the additional cost incurred it was still a good deal.

 

[Jaybird1980]

Hard chrome is a very thin plating. You could polish the scratch out and then bead blast it, but you're running a real risk that you will go through the plating, or getting it thin enough that it won't provide good protection.

My advice is run with it, Chicks dig scars.

 

[Tyler-The-Piker]

hurts resale value...but if you're never getting rid of it then roll with it. drag it down the driveway to give a battleworn look and then you'll never again notice the idiot scratch.

 

[Trapper Jim]

Pay less attention to character marks and concentrate more on shooting... alot.

 

[peterock]

Hard chrome is a very thin playing. You could polish the scratch out and then bead blast it, but you're running a real risk that you will go through the plating, or getting it thin enough that it won't provide good protection.

My advice is run with it, Chicks dig scars.

This, I’ve used this gun for Steel Challenge and IDPA with lots of draws out of kydex and this thing shows zero wear.

 

[bwframe]

I don't know how much you can move the hard chrome surface coating without it messing up?

I never had an idiot scratch, but plenty of other bumps and wear shiny spots in matte finished stainless. I was able to "blend" shiny spots into the matte finish with a small wire detail brush. Don't brush with it, but tap with the bristle ends, as if you are using a hammer.

The fact that the hard chrome surface would allow your idiot scratch in the first place, makes me think this could work for you? Go slow and plan on it taking some time. Maybe a few sessions?

 

[Tombs]

Over time with wear and tear it'll become less noticeable.

If you go messing with a plating, you're going to end up wishing you hadn't tried. Not to mention that mark is an inevitability if you actually use your firearms.
If it was a high polish blued finish and a safe queen I'd be kind of irked by it, but a hard chrome finish? Eh, just try to get used to it, like I said you will regret messing with it.

If you want a finish you can beat the snot out of and touch up here and there, I'd go with a spray on finish like cerakote.

 

[DadSmith]

After reading this thread. I was wondering if this would be a better coating for a slide? More durable?

Titanium Nitride (TiN) - Slide Coating

Titanium Nitride (TiN) : The Ideal Slide Finish Extremely Durable - Harder Than Steel Low Friction Smooth And Lustrous Appearance Helps Protect Against Corrosion Available In Gold (TiN), Black (AlTiN), Copper/Rose (TiCN), And Silver/Grey (TiB2) We can coat pistol slides from most makes and...

middlebranchmachine.com

Has several different colors as well.

 

[BigRed]

Pay less attention to character marks and concentrate more on shooting... alot.

This....Of course, my opinion is from a guy that doesn't smooth irregularities on the face of his hammers or polish out scratches on his wrenches.

 

[KG1]

This....Of course, my opinion is from a guy that doesn't smooth irregularities on the face of his hammers or polish out scratches on his wrenches.

They’re all tools for ***** sake.

 

[BigRed]

They’re all tools for ***** sake.

Yep.

 

[223 Gunner]

I wouldn't worry about it, if you are worried about the resale value at some point.
Consider it a lesson learned and watch youtube videos on how to disassemble and reassemble without making the scratch.
At one time someone was selling a "tool", thin hard plastic credit card looking thing to avoid the idiot scratch.

 

[Expat]

I have also read that some people file or grind on the end of the slide stop. I know I have seen some where you really have to work at getting it to click in right.

 

[bwframe]

I carried, trained and competed with 1911's for many years. Plenty of scratches from holsters, belt buckles, walls, tables and door frames. NONE from reassembly.

It's doable, you just have to pay attention. There is a reason it's called an idiot scratch.

 

[Hopper]

My DW's have a notch on the stop that lets it rest on the plunger pin before you press it in. Seems like such a small detail but it's a clever way to keep from getting the scratch. To be safe I keep a roll of electrical tape in my cleaning bag, and snip a square off and place it where idiot scratches tend to go before reassembly for extra insurance. You never know when oily fingers could cause a slip-up.

 

[gmcttr]

My DW's have a notch on the stop that lets it rest on the plunger pin before you press it in. Seems like such a small detail but it's a clever way to keep from getting the scratch. To be safe I keep a roll of electrical tape in my cleaning bag, and snip a square off and place it where idiot scratches tend to go before reassembly for extra insurance. You never know when oily fingers could cause a slip-up.

I filed the notch into all of my 1911's that didn't the notched stop.