Generator Running till dry?

[Thegeek]

The Jr. Model will just charge that bad boy half as fast when it's dead. Maintenance amperage is the same. I've used my Jr. on a F-250 Superduty. Took all night to charge it, but the light was green and the battery was charged. Deltran makes good battery maintenance products!

 

[jedi]

Well Jr. model it is. Cabela's online store has a good deal on them right now as well.

 

[Dave Doehrman]

Yep. When I park my motorcycle for the winter (4 months usually), she get's fresh oil, a good cleaning, fresh fuel mixed with Sta-Bil, and the battery tender.

In addition, on all my 4 stroke equipment, I pull the spark plugs and add a small amount of oil into the cylinders and then slowly rotate the engines by hand to coat the cylinder walls. My brother-in-law says it is a waste of time and money, but some of my equipment is over 30 years old and still running strong. I've been through 4-5 sets of wheels on my trim mower and have welded the mower deck until it looks like a patchwork quilt, but I bought it in 1982 and it still runs like a top.

 

[Thegeek]

^^^ Fogging isn't a bad idea either. And goes to another reason not to start it, moisture. Comrpession causes condensation (so does heat/cooling). The compression effect causes condensation in the crankcase. Moisture accelerates rust. Just google "milky oil", and you'll find tons of forum posts from people in the spring and fall with oil issues.

It's pretty easy. Can be done with WD-40 too. All you have to do (on a modern bike anway), is turn the wheel in gear until the intake valve on the cylinder starts to close. Stick the straw as far in as you can, and give it a good shot. This coats the cylinder from as close to bottom as you can estimate. Then move on. On a single cylinder like a mower or generator where the plugs are easy to get to, just look inside and shoot when the cylinder is close to bottom. Cycle it a few times and forget about it.

 

[churchmouse]

WD-40 will evaporate and leave a film un-less used religiously. I have seen this first hand. The film is not harmful and will retard rust but as a permanent lubricant WD is not the best choice.
Keeping and friction surface wet (lub.) is always a good idea and will lengthen life. Not to run something at all is not the best idea either. Arguments can be made for both options.

 

[Thegeek]

^^ I think you missed what we were talking about. It was piston ring and cylinder wall oxidation prevention.

 

[churchmouse]

^^ I think you missed what we were talking about. It was piston ring and cylinder wall oxidation prevention.

Bingo. I had stored a bike motor for an extended period. I pulled the plugs and did the WD-40 hose down and rotated the assembly. I decided to make this motor a project for my drag bike. When I tore it down the cylinders wee a tan color and had a film on them. I expected to see clear, rust free steel for my efforts. I discussed this with some engine builders I respect and they told me it was the WD-40. It prevented rust but it left a film. This would have cleared away after running the motor but just a curious effect.

My process changed after this. I use an extended spout oiler with synthetic oil and do my cylinders.

 

[jedi]

ssssooo back to the topic on have genys.
Should the geny be run say twice a year with a LOAD attached to ensure it is indeed still capable of creating electricity or should it just sit (no use) until needed?

 

[churchmouse]

ssssooo back to the topic on have genys.
Should the geny be run say twice a year with a LOAD attached to ensure it is indeed still capable of creating electricity or should it just sit (no use) until needed?

As mentioned it should have regular heat cycles. We run ours monthly if possible and under a load after they are warmed up. Machines need to be duty cycled and I firmly believe this.
Every other month should be OK and this will insure they will start and operate when called upon in a crisis.

Mechanics are easily side tracked.

 

[Thegeek]

^^^^ when they're built, I would assume they are started for quality control. But, even if they aren't, do they recommend the dealers start them every six months until they sell?

 

[churchmouse]

^^^^ when they're built, I would assume they are started for quality control. But, even if they aren't, do they recommend the dealers start them every six months until they sell?

They are dry tank shipped and stored that way. Once the fuel system is wet and they are fired it is always a good idea to stretch their legs occasionally. Machines need to be used. Ask any maint. tech and they will tell you the same thing. JMHO

 

[jedi]

So then run it every quarter (30 mins with a load 15 mins after running it) and use the jr model to keep the battery up to charge.

 

[shibumiseeker]

So then run it every quarter (30 mins with a load 15 mins after running it) and use the jr model to keep the battery up to charge.

Put a small (10-20%) load on it after the first minute or two, then 50% after 10-20 minutes. It doesn't REALLY matter how often or how much as far as the life of the generator, as long as it's started occasionally and you are confident it will start and power a load when you need it. Once a quarter is about the longest I'd go, monthly or bimonthly is better. You're not going to wear it out at that rate. I run a generator for 4-6 hours a day and I get better than 2 years out of them.

 

[jedi]

Thanks all. Guess I'll stick to a bi-monthly schedule then.

 

[churchmouse]

Thanks all. Guess I'll stick to a bi-monthly schedule then.

Do what you have committed to...Batt. maint. and scheduled run time. Keep the tank full to reduce rust etc. Should do fine.

Enjoy.

 

[jedi]

The tank is plastic. What I have noticed is some rust on the muffler. The unit was obtained in fall 2007 BTW.

 

[tobi]

You will not really hurt it but it is OK and probably better to leave the carb wet or full of fuel. Just add some stabilizer and run it on a regular schedule.
I have stored everything from bikes, boats, cars, genny's and so on. If I can keep the bowls wet they seem to like it a lot more than being ran dry. If you shut the fuel off and the bowl evaporates dry it will leave enough crap behind as to plug up the jets. Not always but why run the risk. Stabilize and leave it wet.

I typically run my small engines dry if I don't plan to use them for a while - I have had rubber parts (seals) destroyed by the ethanol in the gas

 

[bwframe]

Necro....

Ha Ha Ha...

Search didn't find me the last thread I discussed this issue in. It did turn up this more appropriate thread though. Hopefully get updates to earlier posts and such, along with more seasoned user advice. TIA!

I just ran my small genny dry for the first time. Started right up! A few months back, it failed to start after leaving fuel in too long. I put a dab of fresh fuel in then.

First question is should I close the fuel petcock?

Should I drain the carb bowl?

Do I need to worry about whether the SW switch is switched on/off?

Do I need to do anything other than put the cover on and wait until the next need? Fuel up, turn on and start when needed, be it months or years?

Anything else?

 

[Brandon]

Turn gas off while it is running let it suck the gas out of the carb.

 

[indyjohn]

I don't have this problem because I'm running LP. Can't say enough about how convenient it is.

But I do firmly believe regardless of what fuel you are running, it is best practice to fire it up periodically to test function. It is no different than changing out the HVAC filters, just get into the habit because things go better because of it.