Generator Running till dry?

[churchmouse]

Mine have always had a petcock, so I just left it running and turned the petcock off. Once it died, I'd open the bowl drains and get what little bit was left.

Even if you don't have the vacuum line, you *should* still be able to turn off the petcock and shut off fuel, but I'm obviously not familiar with what you had.

So long as it worked for you, that's great . I'm just not a fan of pulling the carbs out to clean them more than necessary... When tuning the bike on the dyno I had the carbs out a dozen times adjusting jets and needles and such... That was enough for a while.

My friends always turned off the petcock when storing their bikes and the carbs would go dry through evaporation out the bowl vents. When they would put fuel to them the crud left in the bowls would often get up into the pilot jets and cause issues I am sure you know about. They would bring me the bikes and i pulled and cleaned the carbs. It was somewhat profitable. This led to me doing a lot of up-grades seeking horse power. Love to practice on everybody elses equipment. R&D can be so expensive.......
Leaving my petcock open kept the bowl wet and I never had these issues.

 

[shibumiseeker]

My friends always turned off the petcock when storing their bikes and the carbs would go dry through evaporation out the bowl vents. When they would put fuel to them the crud left in the bowls would often get up into the pilot jets and cause issues I am sure you know about. They would bring me the bikes and i pulled and cleaned the carbs. It was somewhat profitable. This led to me doing a lot of up-grades seeking horse power. Love to practice on everybody elses equipment. R&D can be so expensive.......
Leaving my petcock open kept the bowl wet and I never had these issues.

The other issue with repeated wetting and drying is that is MORE likely to cause problems as seals and the like swell and shrink.

 

[churchmouse]

The other issue with repeated wetting and drying is that is MORE likely to cause problems as seals and the like swell and shrink.

Older cork based seals are really susceptible to this. I am a bit older than some of you fellas so my practices may be based on this in some small way.

 

[shibumiseeker]

Older cork based seals are really susceptible to this. I am a bit older than some of you fellas so my practices may be based on this in some small way.

Maybe older, but I really liked older bikes when I was growing up because I could get non-working ones that had been stored in a garage for decades, sometimes just for hauling them away, and get them up and running.

So I have a lot of experience working on bikes from the 50s to the 70s.

 

[TheGhostRider]

I'm a Generator dealer and Warranty repair mechanic.
This is what I recommend to my customers and I do this for both of my Gen sets.
Once a month, fire up the unit-Allow the engine to warm up then connect a decent load and allow the unit to run for a half hour or more.
It is important to run the unit for more than 10>15 minutes. Like a car the engine needs to reach peak temperature for a period of time. This will burn off any excess moisture that will build up in the crankcase and exhaust/muffler system from setting. If you've ever seen the cream colored build up on a dipstick from other engine's you know what I mean. Keeps the muffler from rusting out as fast as well.
The alternator also builds heat and during the cooling cycle can build condensate up on the stator and rotor eventually leading to insulation failure and a very expensive fix. The extended running time will help dry the power gen system as well.

Once you've hit the half hour... disconnect the load and let the engine stabilize for a minute. Shut off the fuel and let the engine run... when the engine starts to surge close the choke a little until the engine smooths and continues to run. Keep closing the choke when the engine starts to surge. Eventually the engine will die and your good to go.
Fuel is only good for about 30 day with sta-bil in it and stored in a sealed container so I would rotate the fuel out of the unit on a regular basis to keep it fresh.
I do this and I don't have any problems with either of my Gens.
I have had a LOT of gen units in recently for "No Starts" and every one has been from stale fuel... some requiring carburetor replacement due to ethanol damage.

Best of luck,
TGR
OPE Service Manager

 

[churchmouse]

I'm a Generator dealer and Warranty repair mechanic.
This is what I recommend to my customers and I do this for both of my Gen sets.
Once a month, fire up the unit-Allow the engine to warm up then connect a decent load and allow the unit to run for a half hour or more.
It is important to run the unit for more than 10>15 minutes. Like a car the engine needs to reach peak temperature for a period of time. This will burn off any excess moisture that will build up in the crankcase and exhaust/muffler system from setting. If you've ever seen the cream colored build up on a dipstick from other engine's you know what I mean. Keeps the muffler from rusting out as fast as well.
The alternator also builds heat and during the cooling cycle can build condensate up on the stator and rotor eventually leading to insulation failure and a very expensive fix. The extended running time will help dry the power gen system as well.

Once you've hit the half hour... disconnect the load and let the engine stabilize for a minute. Shut off the fuel and let the engine run... when the engine starts to surge close the choke a little until the engine smooths and continues to run. Keep closing the choke when the engine starts to surge. Eventually the engine will die and your good to go.
Fuel is only good for about 30 day with sta-bil in it and stored in a sealed container so I would rotate the fuel out of the unit on a regular basis to keep it fresh.
I do this and I don't have any problems with either of my Gens.
I have had a LOT of gen units in recently for "No Starts" and every one has been from stale fuel... some requiring carburetor replacement due to ethanol damage.

Best of luck,
TGR
OPE Service Manager

Good post. Not disputing as spot on about heat cycles etc. The only thing I do not see is 30 days with stabil. Depends on a lot of factors but bikes I have stored for the winter will usually run fine on the stabilized fuel on first start. A lot depends on the venting of the fuel tank.
Sealed fuel will last months with stabil. Do it all the time.

Nice Avatar.................

 

[shibumiseeker]

Fuel is only good for about 30 day with sta-bil in it and stored in a sealed container so I would rotate the fuel out of the unit on a regular basis to keep it fresh.

I'm sorry, but that's just pure BS. Stored in a sealed container gasoline is good for a LONG time. I regularly crack open drums of fuel that is over 2 years old that has not been treated with anything and it looks, smells, and performs like the day it went in. A full tank of gasoline kept away from excessive heat and moisture will remain viable for many months. The worst problems come from only having a little fuel in a vented tank, especially left out in the heat or the weather, because the daily cycling of the buildup and decrease of vapor pressure attracts moisture and allows the lighter fractions to volatize off faster which leads to increased gums and varnish formations.

A FULL tank of gas in an appliance kept out of the full heat of the sun and the rain will stay good for many months untreated. Leaving said appliance out in the weather will shorten the time fuel remains viable, but it's far more variable than just "30 days." In the colder weather fuel lasts even longer and below freezing the vapor pressure of gasoline is fairly low so it volatizes even more slowly. Yes, rotating it out to keep it fresh is the best strategy, but it's not as dire as all that.

 

[churchmouse]

Maybe older, but I really liked older bikes when I was growing up because I could get non-working ones that had been stored in a garage for decades, sometimes just for hauling them away, and get them up and running.

So I have a lot of experience working on bikes from the 50s to the 70s.

Triumphs, BSA's, Harley's and a few offerings from Kawasaki and Suzuki......Ahh, the good times.

I had this Ariel square 4 one time. That was a project.

 

[shibumiseeker]

Triumphs, BSA's, Harley's and a few offerings from Kawasaki and Suzuki......Ahh, the good times.

I had this Ariel square 4 one time. That was a project.

I found an Indian Scout once that had been someones surplus buy from WWII or Korea. I tore it down and got it running again and sold it for three times what I bought it for (oh, wait, is that gouging?)

 

[churchmouse]

I found an Indian Scout once that had been someones surplus buy from WWII or Korea. I tore it down and got it running again and sold it for three times what I bought it for (oh, wait, is that gouging?)

Think about if you had saved it. I have done this with many cars, trucks and bikes. If I only knew.................
No, gouging is only done in the shooting community.

 

[shibumiseeker]

Think about if you had saved it. I have done this with many cars, trucks and bikes. If I only knew.................

I never was good at restoration work, but at the time I felt like I made a killing selling it and it was about the easiest engine teardown/rebuild I ever did.

 

[Dave Doehrman]

I'm a Generator dealer and Warranty repair mechanic.

Rep added. Seems that others who don't have the credentials like to shout "BS" when they don't agree. Opinions are like *********s, everyone has one.

 

[Thegeek]

I always take the advice of the "dealer" of anything with a grain of salt. Remember, they make a living off selling you goods, parts, and services. Why would they hurt their own business to help you for free? Some dealers are honest, many are not. Most of their advice is based off fear of liability, or directly quoted from the manufacturer documentation (which is more liability fear). Never trust a dealer until the dealer proves themselves trustworthy. Nothing personal TheGhostRider, but they aren't called stealerships for nothing.

Running an engine does only two things. Causes wear, and draws moisture (due to compression and temperature). Unless you're going to start it and use it, don't start it. Proper preventative steps are all that's needed.

 

[jedi]

@thegeek

The geny i have has no manual pull start as its too big 17.5K so it has an electric starter with a 12v battery. What I have noticed is if Idon't turn it on regular the 12v battery dies out and then no start.

 

[Thegeek]

Then put a battery tender on it. Standard battery maintenance 101.

Look at a Deltran Battery Tender Junior.

 

[jedi]

Then put a battery tender on it. Standard battery maintenance 101.

Look at a Deltran Battery Tender Junior.

Like this one
Battery Tender® Junior 12V @ 0.75A - Batterytender.com

 

[churchmouse]

Get one big enough for your battery but yes, that brand is a good one.

 

[Thegeek]

Yep. When I park my motorcycle for the winter (4 months usually), she get's fresh oil, a good cleaning, fresh fuel mixed with Sta-Bil, and the battery tender. My original factory battery lasted for 5 years (long for a sportbike). Every spring when I decide to get her out, I check the tire pressure, clean the dust off the chain, give her a pre-flight, hit the starter and go.

 

[jedi]

I have this battery in my geny
Duralast/Utility battery (U1-3) | | AutoZone.com

Part #: U1-3
My understanding is it's a 12V battery.

Should I get the Jr
Battery Tender® Junior 12V @ 0.75A - Automotive - Products - Batterytender.com
which is 12V @ .75Amps
or plus
Battery Tender Plus - Batterytender.com
which is 12V @ 1.25Amps


Seems like the only difference is rate of charge???

 

[churchmouse]

Yep. When I park my motorcycle for the winter (4 months usually), she get's fresh oil, a good cleaning, fresh fuel mixed with Sta-Bil, and the battery tender. My original factory battery lasted for 5 years (long for a sportbike). Every spring when I decide to get her out, I check the tire pressure, clean the dust off the chain, give her a pre-flight, hit the starter and go.

A little money and effort goes a long way.