Case Lube

[indyblue]

Do you have any data to prove that happens?

No, I don’t. It just seems prudent to keep any greases/lubricant contamination out since it is a known way to quickly de-activate primers (immersion in oil). And also, my experience with pyrotechnics has taught me contaminants of any pyrotechnic mixture are never good, and can be unpredictable.

It just seems prudent to me to keep things clean, not to mention the insides of cases do not need to be lubed that I'm aware of.


EDIT: After some research, there is no definitive proof lube itself is detrimental to the reloading process although I have read several reports of FTFs if primers are handled with oily fingers. The most common problem with getting lube inside the case seems to be the powder can stick to the walls of the cartridge causing a powder "bridge" clumping and keeping powder from falling all the way down to the primer.

The lanolin will not compromise or contaminate the powder. Other lubes will, but lanolin will not. I've loaded plenty of rounds with lanolin residue on the bullets (I swage my own jacketed bullets for rifle), and they have sat for months without any ill effects on primer or powder.

The failures are non-ignition of primers.
I am actually surprised at what it seems to indicate. A direct spray on the primers seems to have no damaging affect UNTIL powder is added to the mix. The idea of testing with powder as additional variables was added a week after I started the primary test of just sprayed primers in a bag and a control group of primers in a bag. Now I wish I would have tested more of that group with sprayed primers plus powder. Oh, well. I think I have enough information to re-evaluate my loading steps.

I realize that the test is a little extreme since I directly sprayed the primers, but I wanted to get some clear answers. Also, I suppose it is theoretically possible that the Dillon case lube had no influence and there were 3 bad primers out of the tested 5, but I really doubt it.

If you think my test isn't fair, let me know why.

 

[700 LTR 223]

I was in a store yesterday and picked up some of the One Shot spray. I tried a test batch with little to no expectations but was surprised. Not a single round even acted like it wanted to get stuck. I'm sure with the previous lubes I was doing something wrong but with this I had the cases standing up, gave em a quick spray and it worked.

Yeah I have used the One Shot for a long time and never had any cases stick on me.

 

[Creedmoor]

No, I don’t. It just seems prudent to keep any greases/lubricant contamination out since it is a known way to quickly de-activate primers (immersion in oil). And also, my experience with pyrotechnics has taught me contaminants of any pyrotechnic mixture are never good, and can be unpredictable.

It just seems prudent to me to keep things clean, not to mention the insides of cases do not need to be lubed that I'm aware of.


EDIT: After some research, there is no definitive proof lube itself is detrimental to the reloading process although I have read several reports of FTFs if primers are handled with oily fingers. The most common problem with getting lube inside the case seems to be the powder can stick to the walls of the cartridge causing a powder "bridge" clumping and keeping powder from falling all the way down to the primer.

Actually the inside of the necks do need to be lubed. Super clean brass has less lubricity than dirty brass, I have never seen any case lube that contain petroleum, teflon or other synthetic silicone so it will not contaminate powder or primers. Folks that use oils like slick 50. stp. motor oil and a myriad of other products run the risk of contamination of powder and primers.
Most of my bottle neck decappers have Redding carbide expanders to help ease the neck expansion. I've used Dillon spray lube for decades now. I've never had any migration of sizing lube. Even way back with a pad and RCBS or Lee pad lube.
And with powder sticking or bridging in the neck.
How much lube do you think will be left in the neck after the expander has done its job?
If an expander is used and when the bullet is seated, it will push the few kernels down into the case.
I learned my reloading before the internet, the internet as been good and also bad with lots of wife's tales that, like a Childs story, never end.
Like the horror of using SRP in place of SPP...

 

[indyblue]

Actually the inside of the necks do need to be lubed. Super clean brass has less lubricity than dirty brass, I have never seen any case lube that contain petroleum, teflon or other synthetic silicone so it will not contaminate powder or primers. Folks that use oils like slick 50. stp. motor oil and a myriad of other products run the risk of contamination of powder and primers.
Most of my bottle neck decappers have Redding carbide expanders to help ease the neck expansion. I've used Dillon spray lube for decades now. I've never had any migration of sizing lube. Even way back with a pad and RCBS or Lee pad lube.
And with powder sticking or bridging in the neck.
How much lube do you think will be left in the neck after the expander has done its job?
If an expander is used and when the bullet is seated, it will push the few kernels down into the case.
I learned my reloading before the internet, the internet as been good and also bad with lots of wife's tales that, like a Childs story, never end.
Like the horror of using SRP in place of SPP...

Thanks for the experienced reply and wisdom.

I've never repurposed/reformed cases (an operation I suspect lube helps with) and I've never had trouble with any stuck cases with my dies (all Redding TiC) so never considered the need for inside lube, even if I did, my process is to quick tumble to remove external grime, lube-size/decap, long tumble clean, expand, charge and seat.

Obviously, I have much more to learn about reloading but so far all my rounds do what I expect.

 

[Creedmoor]

Thanks for the experienced reply and wisdom.

I've never repurposed/reformed cases (an operation I suspect lube helps with) and I've never had trouble with any stuck cases with my dies (all Redding TiC) so never considered the need for inside lube, even if I did, my process is to quick tumble to remove external grime, lube-size/decap, long tumble clean, expand, charge and seat.

Obviously, I have much more to learn about reloading but so far all my rounds do what I expect.

LOL, reloading is an endless learning curve that really never ends. A few months ago I bought an 8 station Dillon press, its been an interesting relearning journey so far.

Please take a peek at what Redding says about lubing cases and necks.
I will say the carbide expanders are The Shizzle.

https://www.redding-reloading.com/tech-line-a-tips-faqs/169-lubricating-cases

 

[indyblue]

LOL, reloading is an endless learning curve that really never ends.

Perhaps I've only been successful because so far I have only processed my own once or twice-fired brass. Less than 5% of them have even needed trimming so far. I imagine that the more firings my cases go through, things will change and my process will need to adapt to the conditions of the cases requiring more stringent control.

For now I have many 1K's of my own once fired to get through.

Cheers!

 

[DadSmith]

Another thing i tried recently was mineral oil.
It doesn't take much at all. Just a drop will do many cases if you do them one by one which I do a lot when of times.
I'm wondering if I could mix mineral oil with alcohol like lanolin and get similar results?
Mineral is very slick, and it cleans the dies as you use it.

 

[Creedmoor]

Another thing i tried recently was mineral oil.
It doesn't take much at all. Just a drop will do many cases if you do them one by one which I do a lot when of times.
I'm wondering if I could mix mineral oil with alcohol like lanolin and get similar results?
Mineral is very slick, and it cleans the dies as you use it.

My understanding is most Mineral oils are a petroleum based. Myself I would not recommend using it to lube cases.

 

[DadSmith]

My understanding is most Mineral oils are a petroleum based. Myself I would not recommend using it to lube cases.

Thanks I didn't think about that part.

 

[BackFromDC]

Damn I guess I've been lucky. I sometimes forget to lube the cases but nothing bad has happened to me...yet.

 

[canebreaker]

My first lube on rifle cases was Lee case lube. Got one stuck and used the drill and tap method. Dang, waste a case. Next time I removed the die head, used a 3/16" brass rod and hammer. Quicker but a pain.
I read where someone used 5 or 10 W SAE motor oil with great results. I stab the neck of every 5th case into a RCBS lube pad soaked with oil. Decap/size, measure/trim if needed, wet tumble to remove oil and tarnish, dry, polish in corncob media. No stuck cases.

 

[nucular]

Yeah I have used the One Shot for a long time and never had any cases stick on me.

Reloading new 300 starline, I have to spray the crap out of every case with one shot or I end up pulling the rim out of the press. I try to do the shake 'em up in a ziploc thing but they always end up getting stuck that way.

 

[Leo]

STP from the auto parts used to be popular with the lube pad guys. Of course then you had to wash it off with thinner. That method is not for me. I also tried imperial wax, motor mica, graphite, LEE alox, a few aerosols, Johnsons paste wax, candle soot and I am sure some more that I cannot remember.

After trying every method for bottle neck rifle cases in all the reloading manuals, I just lay the cases on there side in a bowl or a cookie sheet depending on the number, and spray the lanolin spray lube from Midway or Dillon. I wait a while for the alcohol to evaporate and all is good. (this is important, if you rush it, the solvent will stick a case) I do allow a tiny bit to get maybe 1mm into some of the case mouths, it runs smoother and I have never had any problems.

If you are only loading 10 or 20 rounds at a time, time does not matter. 500 at a time it does.

 

[Leo]

Reloading new 300 starline, I have to spray the crap out of every case with one shot or I end up pulling the rim out of the press. I try to do the shake 'em up in a ziploc thing but they always end up getting stuck that way.

I am not being a wise guy or trying to attack you. If you already know, it might help someone else.

There are two Hornady One shot products, one for case lube and one is a cleaner/dri lube for other purposes. Both are good, but I don't use them because aerosol products cost more.

 

[Leo]

Damn I guess I've been lucky. I sometimes forget to lube the cases but nothing bad has happened to me...yet.

The nice thing about carbide dies with straight mouth pistol cartridges is that lube is not required. Some of the very old die sets did not have the carbide ring. Too bad carbide dies are not available for bottle neck rifle cases.

 

[Creedmoor]

The nice thing about carbide dies with straight mouth pistol cartridges is that lube is not required. Some of the very old die sets did not have the carbide ring. Too bad carbide dies are not available for bottle neck rifle cases.

A bit of lube with strait walls sure makes it easier to size them.
Dillon has made carbide bottleneck rifle dies for years, they are available in 223, 308, 300 Blackout,
30 M1 Carbine and 30-06. Most of them have been heavily backordered for about 2 years.
I believe its a 6 to 12 wait now. I own them in 223 and 308.
They are not cheap, I cried when I bought what I have, they are twice the price now.

 

[DadSmith]

Someone told years ago they used original Pam spray and said it worked good.
I've heard people say they used Dawn dish soap and said it worked extremely well.

 

[nucular]

I am not being a wise guy or trying to attack you. If you already know, it might help someone else.

There are two Hornady One shot products, one for case lube and one is a cleaner/dri lube for other purposes. Both are good, but I don't use them because aerosol products cost more.

I had to go check but it is the one shot case lube spray. Phew.

 

[Leo]

A bit of lube with strait walls sure makes it easier to size them.
Dillon has made carbide bottleneck rifle dies for years, they are available in 223, 308, 300 Blackout,
30 M1 Carbine and 30-06. Most of them have been heavily backordered for about 2 years.
I believe its a 6 to 12 wait now. I own them in 223 and 308.
They are not cheap, I cried when I bought what I have, they are twice the price now.

Thanks, I didn't know that. Like so much in my life, my "New" reloading stuff is getting pretty old. I have not bought dies in a long while.

At a certain point a person forgets how to remember time. Just recently the water heater died, and I was ticked because "I just changed it a couple years back". I found the receipt, it was 9-1/2 years ago....

 

[Hawkeye7br]

I too use Hornady One Shot. I lay the cases in a line on a shallow cookie sheet with case mouths facing me, a little crack of space between bodies. With the straw, spray the bodies, then a bit in the necks and give them a half turn roll so the lube distributes inside the neck.
Depending on how much your dies size down the necks, importance of inside neck lubing can vary. I feel that dragging the neck expander out of an unlubed neck is hard on the dies, operator, and stretches the case neck unevenly.

If I get too much lube on the cases, I'll alternate a lubed case with an unlubed case until it evens out a bit.