Air guns, pistols & rifles, spring loaded

[Max Volume]

I just picked up this RWS 34 T06 Classic .22 in the box at the gun show yesterday For $225. Didn't think that was too bad. Seems to be accurate offhand at about 30' and has a good, solid feel to it. I like the fiber optic sights with no plans to scope it for the time being. Never mind the flyer.

 

[Twangbanger]

I just picked up this RWS 34 T06 Classic .22 in the box at the gun show yesterday For $225. Didn't think that was too bad. Seems to be accurate offhand at about 30' and has a good, solid feel to it. I like the fiber optic sights with no plans to scope it for the time being. Never mind the flyer.
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View attachment 267331

That seems like a good deal. How you like the trigger on it?

 

[Max Volume]

That seems like a good deal. How you like the trigger on it?

The trigger seems really good. Once you take up the slack it is very light and crisp. I had a basic idea for a springer and bought better than originally anticipated because it seemed like a good deal. It was only after I got home and did
a bit more research I read about the T6 trigger.

 

[Twangbanger]

The trigger seems really good. Once you take up the slack it is very light and crisp. I had a basic idea for a springer and bought better than originally anticipated because it seemed like a good deal. It was only after I got home and did
a bit more research I read about the T6 trigger.

When they opened the Sportsmans Warehouse down here, they had three of them in .22 cal. on the first stocking of the shelves. I thought about them, even got one out and looked at it. I hem-hawed around and missed out, and they never restocked...just reverted to the usual Benjamins, "Rugers" and Gamos. By the time I decided to get a HW, even those were all gone in .22 and backordered for months!

I would have bought that in a heartbeat. You good a good deal.

 

[doddg]

Recently, in selling a .22LRs to a member that I'd sold a different .22LR years ago, he mentioned he was also into air guns & asked if I had any to sell.
I had I'd determined to trim 2 of the 6 air guns I had picked up during Covid b/c of skyrocketing ammo prices.
Good timing!

I gave him a choice between two that had the same accuracy for me, depending on the day.
- $200 Diana LP8 Magnum Performance 4.5mm/.177 cal spring air (tied 2nd) ** (box)
(Pyramid Air $320)
- $250 HW70 Weihrauch 4.5mm/.177 air pistol (tied 2nd) (box)
(D&L Airgun $350)

He choose the Diana LP8 since he could put a red dot on the dovetail.


2nd row Diana LP8


Rows 1 & 2


Didn't choose the Weihrauch HW 70.

1st row the Weihrauch HW 70


Another of HW 70


HW70 with 3 brands of pellets

 

[doddg]

3 air pistols brought to the range today:
- Weihrauch HW70 (4.5 mm/.177 cal.)
- Air Ventura V10 (4.5 mm/.177 cal.)
- Weihrauch HW45 (5.5 mm/.177 cal.)

This was supposed to be my last day with the Weihrauch HW70.
But, after selling the Diana LP8 Magnum last week, I can't part with it, haha!
The Diana LP8 Magnum was very similar in looks & feel to the Wiehrauch HW70, so I could part with one of them.
These three all have a completely different look & feel to them & I love the variety.

Pellets used:
- 5.5 mm/.22 cal. H&N Sport, 13.73 grain
- 4.5 mm/.177 cal. H&N Baracuda Match, 10.65 grain
140 rounds of pellets used today.

2nd Target used today, 1.75" circles & 21'
1st row: Weihrauch HW45 = 90%
2nd row: Air Ventura V10 = 90%
3rd row: Weihrauch HW70 (NOT HW45=MISLABELED) = 95%
4th row: Just for Practice to adjust rear sight, if needed.



1st target used today as a warm up:
X circle = 11/16"
&
X+10 circles = 1 13/16"
10 rds per circle @ 21'.

- Top row: Weihrauch HW70
Total of X+10 = 14/20 rds = 70%)
- Middle row: Air Ventura V10 (usually places 1st)
Total of X+10 = 17/20 rds = 85%
- Bottom row: Weihrauch HW45
Total of X+10 = 16/20 rds = 80%



Weihrauch HW70


Air Venturi V10


Weihrauch HW45

 

[doddg]

20 quick rounds on the 3 remaining air guns today.
21' on 1.75" circles.
On a rest, of course, haha!

1st row: Weihrauch HW70 = 85% (95%, 80%, 100%, 100%, 95%, recent past).
2nd row: Weihrauch HW45 = 90% (90%, 70%, 100%, 90%, 95%, recent past).
3rd row: Air Venturi V10 = 100% (100%, 100%, 95%, 90%, 95%, 100% recent past).

 

[doddg]

1st air rifle range visit Spring 2023 with Weihrauch HW 35E
Action: Break Barrel · Power plant: Spring Piston.
Bought Oct. 2021.

Since I hadn't shot it much after last Jan 2022 & was thrilled at its performance & quality of build all over again today.
I could really feel that it was me when I didn't keep my groups tighter.
I had to concentrate on loosely holding this springer air rifle.
Since I wasn't using my rifle sled at the indoor range, I could see the crosshairs moving when my heart would beat or I would have had better groups after adjusting scope a few clicks.

5 rds each circle starting w/torso, then up to head then to the 2 rows on the bottom.
7/8" circles on head & 2 rows on bottom.
3/4" circles on the smaller red circle (X) on the torso.
21' using H&N Baracuda Match 10.65 grain .177 cal. pellets.

 

[doddg]

Weihrauch HW45 spring piston break barrel air pistol/.22cal.
&
Weihrauch HW70 spring piston break barrel air pistol/.177 cal.

HW45: torso & head.
HW70: bottom 2 rows.
21' using H&N Sport pellets.
Cloverleaf on torso & almost on head with 4 of 5 pellets with HW45 .22cal.
I kept tweaking the sights on the HW70 since the 1st row was shooting low.
I must have used a different pellets last time.
I thought I had it on the 5th circle, but 6th & last circle was going low again.
Maybe it just doesn't like this weight of pellet?


HW .22 cal


HW70 .177 cal

 

[doddg]

Bought the Diana RWS 46 .177 cal. springer with its underlever & loading gate approach in the Classifieds.
Been interested in getting another Springer air rifle but never know what direction to go b/c of lack of experience with air guns.
There have been some good offerings in the Classifieds lately.

I bought this Diana 46 b/c it came set up with rings, scope & with the proper type of "backstop" you have to get for the rings on an air gun to "lock" it in b/c of the 2-way shock a springer has that can tear up a regular scope.
Plus, I'd bought a CZ 455 .22LR from same person 2021 & knew it had to be a good brand if he had it for years.
I like buying a good guns from others that move on to something more expensive gun, which I'm never going to buy, haha!
He also is a wealth of knowledge & I knew whatever he was selling would be top notch.
The price at $300 was good, plus I got some ancillary items included, which is always a bonus.

He had warned me about it not having a target trigger & I found it to be "stout."
There are 2 screws under the trigger, so I need to learn how to adjust them to "sensitize" it a bit.

Barrel is fixed & has a "loading gate" in back of the barrel to insert pellet.
It is actually why I bought the gun b/c I thought the fixed barrel with an underlever to cock the spring was a good design concept.
However, I do wish it was a .22 cal. b/c the .177 cal. pellets are so small my fat fingers have some difficulty handling/loading the .177 pellet compared to the .22 cal. pellet.
I learned that on the air pistols.
Since it is not a .22 cal., after I'm through having fun with it, I'll sell it & get a .22 cal.

First 5 rds on 3.75" circle at 25 yds.
I used H&N Sport Field Target Trophy .177 cal, 8.64 grain today.


1.75" circles at 25 yds. with 95% & 100%.

 

[doddg]

Adjusted the trigger on the Diana RWS 46 with its front & rear trigger screws to lighten it up a bit.
I improved a little better inserting pellets into the "loading gate."
I am handicapped by my bony/fat stubby thumb & forefinger, but it's never going to be as fluid as loading a break barrel.
I saw research how the underlever or sidelever spring air rifles with a fixed barrel are a little bit more accurate, at the same price point.

There were 2 trigger adjustment screws side by side in front of the trigger.
I refer to them as the "front screw," (further from trigger) & the "rear screw" (closest to trigger).
Stock adjustments of both screws:
- front screw = took 1 turn cw to be as far in as possible.
- rear screw = 4 turns cw to be as far in as possible.

My adjustments after turning cw all the way in:
- Front screw = None/0 ccw turns.
- Rear screw = 5.5, 7, then 8 turns ccw.

This lightened up the trigger some.
Though, it didn't seem to make a discernable lighter trigger pull increasing my ccw turns of rear screw.
But, I lost all free play at 5.5 ccw turns.
Gained slight free play at 7 ccw turns, then a hair more free play at 8 ccw turns.

If I understood my research correctly, backing out the front screw would only add to the weight of the trigger pull.
It was all about the rear screw.
It was difficult finding info & none with vids available specific to the Diana 46.
If I would have taken my trigger pull weight gauge, I would have experimented more.

 

[Twangbanger]

Adjusted the trigger on the Diana RWS 46 with its front & rear trigger screws to lighten it up a bit.
I improved a little better inserting pellets into the "loading gate."
I am handicapped by my bony/fat stubby thumb & forefinger, but it's never going to be as fluid as loading a break barrel.
I saw research how the underlever or sidelever spring air rifles with a fixed barrel are a little bit more accurate, at the same price point.

There were 2 trigger adjustment screws side by side in front of the trigger.
I refer to them as the "front screw," (further from trigger) & the "rear screw" (closest to trigger).
Stock adjustments of both screws:
- front screw = took 1 turn cw to be as far in as possible.
- rear screw = 4 turns cw to be as far in as possible.

My adjustments after turning cw all the way in:
- Front screw = None/0 ccw turns.
- Rear screw = 5.5, 7, then 8 turns ccw.

This lightened up the trigger some.
Though, it didn't seem to make a discernable lighter trigger pull increasing my ccw turns of rear screw.
But, I lost all free play at 5.5 ccw turns.
Gained slight free play at 7 ccw turns, then a hair more free play at 8 ccw turns.

If I understood my research correctly, backing out the front screw would only add to the weight of the trigger pull.
It was all about the rear screw.
It was difficult finding info & none with vids available specific to the Diana 46.
If I would have taken my trigger pull weight gauge, I would have experimented more.

Don't forget threadlocker on the trigger screw. They are notorious for backing out. Weihrauches loosen in the "lightening" direction. When you think "Boy, this trigger really breaks nice," that's your "low fuel" indicator coming on. When you think, "Wow, that shot went off before my brain even thought of firing," that's the engine sputtering.

I always wondered why they put automatic safeties on them. This is probably why. The triggers seem to have the ability to lighten down to the point where the act of snapping the barrel shut could probably slip the sear off. When I'm making adjustments on springers, I always make sure that when clicking the automatic safety off, the gun is pointing in a safe direction. Because there is probably some level where it will fire just from the act of flipping off the safety (ie, the sear has actually already released, but the gun won't fire until you take the safety off). Germany isn't as lawsuit-happy as we are, and the Germans design these things as "big boy guns," and I love them for it. But it does require some attention to detail on the part of the shooter.

I always do the "ball point pen spring modification" on my CZ .22 triggers, and it produces a nice 1lb. pull. But I got greedy on one and clipped enough off the spring that eventually, the act of lowering the bolt handle would drop the striker. I had to learn to "Bump test" the trigger with a nice hit on the buttpad with a rubber mallet, to "suss out" the safety level of my modifications.

But a spring airgun without threadlocker can eventually push you into the danger zone without much warning.

 

[doddg]

Don't forget threadlocker on the trigger screw. They are notorious for backing out. Weihrauches loosen in the "lightening" direction. When you think "Boy, this trigger really breaks nice," that's your "low fuel" indicator coming on. When you think, "Wow, that shot went off before my brain even thought of firing," that's the engine sputtering.

I always wondered why they put automatic safeties on them. This is probably why. The triggers seem to have the ability to lighten down to the point where the act of snapping the barrel shut could probably slip the sear off. When I'm making adjustments on springers, I always make sure that when clicking the automatic safety off, the gun is pointing in a safe direction. Because there is probably some level where it will fire just from the act of flipping off the safety (ie, the sear has actually already released, but the gun won't fire until you take the safety off). Germany isn't as lawsuit-happy as we are, and the Germans design these things as "big boy guns," and I love them for it. But it does require some attention to detail on the part of the shooter.

I always do the "ball point pen modification" on my CZ .22 triggers, and it produces a nice 1lb. pull. But I got greedy on one and clipped enough off the spring that eventually, the act of lowering the bolt handle would drop the striker. I had to learn to "Bump test" the trigger with a nice hit on the buttpad with a rubber mallet, to "suss out" the safety level of my modifications.

But a spring airgun without threadlocker can eventually push you into the danger zone without much warning.

Appreciate so much you taking the time to being detailed in spelling that out!

When I change the adjustments on rear sights, especially the ones that don't "click" into position,
I write down the "o'clock" position (example: 10:6 or 3:9 or 2:8) of the screw head slot (where flathead screwdriver fits) & check them from time to time to make sure they are not slipping.

I will now do the same with the position of the 2 trigger screws.
I'll experiment more with the "best position" of exactly where I want them after I take my trigger weight gauge to confirm screw positioning & best trigger.

Do I turn the screws ccw completely out, then apply the threadlocker, then screw cw turning back to the position where I want them?
And, should I be afraid of screwing the screw out too much & it falling out
or
is there some sort of "brake" for the screw that keeps that from happening?

I also read to use fingernail polish on the trigger screws instead of the blue or red Loctite so a person can more easily move the screws later if they want.
Your feedback?

Sorry if terminology isn't correct.
Never attempted any sort of trigger adjustments before.

 

[Twangbanger]

Appreciate so much you taking the time to being detailed in spelling that out!

When I change the adjustments on rear sights, especially the ones that don't "click" into position,
I write down the "o'clock" position (example: 10:6 or 3:9 or 2:8) of the screw head slot (where flathead screwdriver fits) & check them from time to time to make sure they are not slipping.

I will now do the same with the position of the 2 trigger screws.
I'll experiment more with the "best position" of exactly where I want them after I take my trigger weight gauge to confirm screw positioning & best trigger.

Do I turn the screws ccw completely out, then apply the threadlocker, then screw cw turning back to the position where I want them?
And, should I be afraid of screwing the screw out too much & it falling out
or
is there some sort of "brake" for the screw that keeps that from happening?

I also read to use fingernail polish on the trigger screws instead of the blue or red Loctite so a person can more easily move the screws later if they want.
Your feedback?

Sorry if terminology isn't correct.
Never attempted any sort of trigger adjustments before.

I don't have an RWS currently, and have never used fingernail polish. But on my WH's, once I had them in a good spot feel-wise, I counted revolutions to take them all the way out, applied loctite, then ran them back in that some number of revolutions. I took care to have the gun lying sideways while doing this, so I'm not allowing excess loctite to drain downward into the trigger mechanism and possibly gum it up. You will have time to cock it and fire a couple times to verify trigger pull, and possibly turn the screw a bit more, before it dries. It's best to do this at the end of a shooting session, so the gun can sit undisturbed a decent time without recoil vibration while the loctite dries.

Once I disturb an HW from the factory setting, it can work out to a dangerously light level within a shooting session. Your RWS may be totally different, of course. But this will work on your HW35, and that trigger is capable of going as light as your dexterity and blood pressure can stand.

 

[radar8756]

Don't forget threadlocker on the trigger screw. They are notorious for backing out.

Any particular strength ?

I was also told some Threadlocker require 24 hrs to Cure / Set

 

[Twangbanger]

I use medium/blue because it's a small screw. It does not set up right away. Honestly I haven't checked cure time...I usually just let it set "a long time" but then again, most things I put it on aren't subject to the amount of vibration and movement as a spring airgun screw, so it wouldn't matter anyway. On these, I make sure I put the gun away after I apply it. If you continued to shoot it afterward, I'm almost certain it wouldn't hold.

 

[doddg]

I don't have an RWS currently, and have never used fingernail polish. But on my WH's, once I had them in a good spot feel-wise, I counted revolutions to take them all the way out, applied loctite, then ran them back in that some number of revolutions. I took care to have the gun lying sideways while doing this, so I'm not allowing excess loctite to drain downward into the trigger mechanism and possibly gum it up. You will have time to cock it and fire a couple times to verify trigger pull, and possibly turn the screw a bit more, before it dries. It's best to do this at the end of a shooting session, so the gun can sit undisturbed a decent time without recoil vibration while the loctite dries.

Once I disturb an HW from the factory setting, it can work out to a dangerously light level within a shooting session. Your RWS may be totally different, of course. But this will work on your HW35, and that trigger is capable of going as light as your dexterity and blood pressure can stand.

You said, "I counted revolutions to take them (screws) all the way out, applied Loctite, then ran them back in that some number of revolutions."
Does this mean you literally backed the screws (ccw) all the way until they came out?
Or, was there a "stop" or "brake" that prevented the screws from coming all the way out?
I read about a person with a Weihrauch 30 air rifle that a screw had fallen out unexpectedly months after he had done a minor adjustment.

Great detail about putting the rifle on its side so as not to have any excess Loctite ooze into the trigger mechanism.

I have a Weihrauch HW35E break barrel springer that I've never tried to figure out the trigger adjustment, but maybe I'll get my courage up if my attempt with the Diana RWS 46 goes w/o incident.

Again, thanks for the attention to detail & sharing your experience!

 

[Twangbanger]

You said, "I counted revolutions to take them (screws) all the way out, applied Loctite, then ran them back in that some number of revolutions."
Does this mean you literally backed the screws (ccw) all the way until they came out?
Or, was there a "stop" or "brake" that prevented the screws from coming all the way out?
I read about a person with a Weihrauch 30 air rifle that a screw had fallen out unexpectedly months after he had done a minor adjustment.

Great detail about putting the rifle on its side so as not to have any excess Loctite ooze into the trigger mechanism.

I have a Weihrauch HW35E break barrel springer that I've never tried to figure out the trigger adjustment, but maybe I'll get my courage up if my attempt with the Diana RWS 46 goes w/o incident.

Again, thanks for the attention to detail & sharing your experience!

The HW screws will come all the way out. Although, the trigger should get DARN light to warn you first. The Weihrauches are way easier than what your RWS sounds like. There's only one screw, and nothing you can get wrong. It is not "fiddly." You will have a 1-lb. trigger in 30 seconds.

 

[doddg]

The HW screws will come all the way out. Although, the trigger should get DARN light to warn you first. The Weihrauches are way easier than what your RWS sounds like. There's only one screw, and nothing you can get wrong. It is not "fiddly." You will have a 1-lb. trigger in 30 seconds.

I don't believe the Diana 46 has the capability of approaching a 1# trigger like the
Weihrauch "Record" triggers.
I read you have to drop in an aftermarket trigger in the Diana 46 for such.

The previous owner had this Diana 46 for 15 yrs. & never adjusted the trigger at all.
Therefore, I thought I would be fine, but when I discovered there were 2 trigger adjustment screws,
I had to play with it!
Since it did improve after my adjusting both screws, I just want to verify it with the Wheeler trigger weight gauge today.

The forums stated the 2nd (rear) screw is the only recourse to lighten the stock the trigger.
But, I couldn't tell any difference between 5.5 ccw turns out of the rear screw than with 7 or 8 ccw turns out.
With my lack of experience, I was reticent to go more than 8 ccw turns for fear of the screw falling out.

The Wheeler trigger gauge will be the missing link I didn't have earlier.
I will experiment with also turning the front screw out (ccw).
However, I read the front screw only adds or takes away "free play" & will make trigger pull heavier??
Again, thanks for the guidance!

 

[doddg]

Used the Wheeler trigger weight device today.
An average of 1 lb 4 oz - 1 lb 10.7 oz (pics below).
I left the 2nd screw where I'd put it Monday: 8 ccw turns.
Turned the 1st screw out 1 ccw turn to give trigger some "free play" before the wall.

I've gotten more efficient at inserting a a tiny .177 pellet into the loading gate.
I've learned to position my thumb & forefinger horizontally instead of vertically with my thumb & forefinger when holding the pellet for insertion.
I go below the hole & come up to meet it instead of trying to go directly into the hole, of which my bony/fat thumb is in the way.

I used the same H&N Sport Field Target Trophy .177 cal, 8.64 grain that I've used previously with the Diana RWS 46.
After adjusting the two trigger screws, I discovered I needed to readjust the elevation & windage since the POI was a little low & left.

25 yds at 1.75" circles


5 pulls: Max 1 lb 13.4 oz & Min 1 lb 8.1 ozs.


5 pulls: Max of 1 lb 7.3 oz & Min of 0 lb 14.1 oz.


Average of 5 pulls: 1 lb 4 ozs.


Average of 5 pulls: 1 lb. 10.7 ozs.