10mm like real 10mm

[Principal Skinr]

If you shoot only high powered 10mm rounds then the range sessions will be very expensive. I have Double Tap bear loads that cost $1.50/round. What I did is to bring 10 or 15 rounds of DT to make sure the gun functions well when needed. Then for the rest of the session I shoot cheap 180GR 40 S&W. Before anyone flames me, my 10mm gun shoots 40 S&W regularly, and 10mm only occasionally, and there has never been a problem. If you shoot 38 spl in a 357 revolver regularly, then you should not worry about shooting 40 S&W in a 10mm pistol. Not only would this save a lot of money, but also you shoot a lot better due to the lower recoil.

What kind of gun is your 10?

 

[Franc]

Glock 40

 

[mark40sw]

If you shoot only high powered 10mm rounds then the range sessions will be very expensive. I have Double Tap bear loads that cost $1.50/round. What I did is to bring 10 or 15 rounds of DT to make sure the gun functions well when needed. Then for the rest of the session I shoot cheap 180GR 40 S&W. Before anyone flames me, my 10mm gun shoots 40 S&W regularly, and 10mm only occasionally, and there has never been a problem. If you shoot 38 spl in a 357 revolver regularly, then you should not worry about shooting 40 S&W in a 10mm pistol. Not only would this save a lot of money, but also you shoot a lot better due to the lower recoil.

If you shoot 40sw out of a 10mm autoloading pistol, it will headspace off the extractor which may overstress it long term. I have conversion barrels for my 10mm's when I shoot 40sw through them.

If you handload, high powered 10mm handloads are almost same price as 40sw handloads.

 

[flightsimmer]

This is just for drooling.

 

[Franc]

If you shoot 40sw out of a 10mm autoloading pistol, it will headspace off the extractor which may overstress it long term. I have conversion barrels for my 10mm's when I shoot 40sw through them.

If you handload, high powered 10mm handloads are almost same price as 40sw handloads.

I had thought about that long and hard. This applies to the Glock 40 only. I took apart the extractor and studied it. I think that the only extra thing it is doing with the 40 S&W is holding back the base of the casing when the firing pin strikes the primer thus pushing the casing forward, until the powder ignite and slam the casing backwards into the breech face. I think this will not be undue stress for the extractor. First, the firing pin does not seem to have a very strong push, and this push is further softened by the deformation of the primer. Second, the pivot point of the extractor is to the side of the casing, and the surface of the extractor's holding edge appear to be parallel to the breach face, while the surface of the slot in the base of the casing appear to be slightly sloped. This means if the holding force is too large the extractor will simply pivot and slide off, and the casing will fall deeper into the chamber. So far this has not happened. Thirdly, the time between the pin strick and the gun powder burn is probably so short that the amount of deformation (work) on the face of the extractor is going to be microscopic, not unlike wear and tear on other parts.

This sounds very geekish, but I do enjoy a firearm (or car) discussion down to the smallest details!

 

[DadSmith]

Just buy 40S&W powered 10mm ammunition.
Remington 180gr FMJ is basically 40S&W powered.

S&B 180fmj is also 40S&W powered

 

[Franc]

Just buy 40S&W powered 10mm ammunition.
Remington 180gr FMJ is basically 40S&W powered.

S&B 180fmj is also 40S&W powered

The average 40S&W fmj is a lot cheaper than the average 10mm fmj. Also I have more 40S&W guns than the one 10mm so I already have 40S&W ammo available. Shooting 40s&w in 10mm gun reduces the number of calibers I have to buy.

 

[DadSmith]

I had thought about that long and hard. This applies to the Glock 40 only. I took apart the extractor and studied it. I think that the only extra thing it is doing with the 40 S&W is holding back the base of the casing when the firing pin strikes the primer thus pushing the casing forward, until the powder ignite and slam the casing backwards into the breech face. I think this will not be undue stress for the extractor. First, the firing pin does not seem to have a very strong push, and this push is further softened by the deformation of the primer. Second, the pivot point of the extractor is to the side of the casing, and the surface of the extractor's holding edge appear to be parallel to the breach face, while the surface of the slot in the base of the casing appear to be slightly sloped. This means if the holding force is too large the extractor will simply pivot and slide off, and the casing will fall deeper into the chamber. So far this has not happened. Thirdly, the time between the pin strick and the gun powder burn is probably so short that the amount of deformation (work) on the face of the extractor is going to be microscopic, not unlike wear and tear on other parts.

This sounds very geekish, but I do enjoy a firearm (or car) discussion down to the smallest details!

Let us know how the extractor holds up, and how many 40S&W rds you've fired. This could get interesting.

 

[Franc]

I will. So far the gun has shot 4 boxes of sig 10mm, 1 box of double tap, and the rest are all 40 S&W. I don't have an exact number, but I've owned the gun since 2016, I am guessing that there should be at least 2,000 rounds of 40 S&W already.

 

[shibumiseeker]

I will. So far the gun has shot 4 boxes of sig 10mm, 1 box of double tap, and the rest are all 40 S&W. I don't have an exact number, but I've owned the gun since 2016, I am guessing that there should be at least 2,000 rounds of 40 S&W already.

Glocks will generally function just fine without the extractor, and they are cheap and easy to replace.

A bigger consideration is gunk building up in the chamber near the barrel, but even this isn’t generally a real issue.

If anyone is concerned about cost and are not reloading then you’re just pissing in the wind. There is no excuse for not reloading other than you don’t want to, and if that’s the case then don’t whine about cost.

 

[freekforge]

Yesterday I put 250ish rounds through my ria 1911. I shot armscore, blazer, federal hst, liberty civil defense, and 220gr. Buffalo bore. 10mm is indeed the best millimeter. Buffalo bore was pretty fun and the civil defense on water jugs was pretty devastating. Blazer 180gr grouped the best which still wasn't amazing since I had a hard time with the sights and the sun going down but it was minute of bad guy/bear. Lpp vs spp among all the brass is pretty annoying.

 

[SpartanYeti]

SIG and S&B have both been 100% reliable range ammo.... I used to find S&B for a reasonable price.

If you want hotter FMJ/ self defense loads look for Fenix ammunition to do a restock. Their ammo is the most stout I've shot besides Underwood 220gr hard cast.

 

[jamil]

SIG and S&B have both been 100% reliable range ammo.... I used to find S&B for a reasonable price.

If you want hotter FMJ/ self defense loads look for Fenix ammunition to do a restock. Their ammo is the most stout I've shot besides Underwood 220gr hard cast.

Yep. For most range purposes I typically shoot the Sig ammo. It’s not a full load like the Underwood or Buffalo Bore. But. It’s reasonably loaded. To put the smile on my face I still like to bring a few rounds of the more expensive Underwood for capping off a range session.

 

[DadSmith]

Yep. For most range purposes I typically shoot the Sig ammo. It’s not a full load like the Underwood or Buffalo Bore. But. It’s reasonably loaded. To put the smile on my face I still like to bring a few rounds of the more expensive Underwood for capping off a range session.

I like to load mine at around 550 ft lbs of energy so it has the same energy as a 357 magnum. To me that is plenty good. That is a 180gr bullet at 1175fps or a 200gr bullet at 1115fps. 357 magnum power with a lot less recoil and heavier bullets.

My 155gr XTP run around 1500fps avg that is 774 ft lbs of energy.

 

[jamil]

I like to load mine at around 550 ft lbs of energy so it has the same energy as a 357 magnum. To me that is plenty good. That is a 180gr bullet at 1175fps or a 200gr bullet at 1115fps. 357 magnum power with a lot less recoil and heavier bullets.

My 155gr XTP run around 1500fps avg that is 774 ft lbs of energy.

The SIG 10mm ball ammo is 624 ft lbs so it’s a little snappier I guess but not real far off from that. I don’t reload though. Don’t really have the time, or a place to do it if I did have time.

I haven’t bought any ammo in more than two years. But after getting caught in the availability drought after Sandy Hook, after the drought ended, I started buying it on sale. Even if it’s only a box or two here or a case there. The bad thing about that, it tends to restrict gun purchases to whatever I have on hand to shoot. And I’ve put a dent in my 10mm stash. So I’m hoping that we can get to a point where it’s reasonably priced again. If it stays this high maybe I’ll have yo think about reloading.

 

[warren5421]

I load my own but if want factory I use Underwood. STI likes the 180 gr XTP, S&W 1006 likes 200 gr XTP, EAA likes both XTP and Gold Saber 180gr or 200gr. Of the high speed rounds out there the Underwood rounds fired over the screens seem to come the closest to advertised speeds out of my guns, BB is slower. I load max loads of the powder/lot. When I change lots I backoff and work back up to max.

 

[DadSmith]

The SIG 10mm ball ammo is 624 ft lbs so it’s a little snappier I guess but not real far off from that. I don’t reload though. Don’t really have the time, or a place to do it if I did have time.

I haven’t bought any ammo in more than two years. But after getting caught in the availability drought after Sandy Hook, after the drought ended, I started buying it on sale. Even if it’s only a box or two here or a case there. The bad thing about that, it tends to restrict gun purchases to whatever I have on hand to shoot. And I’ve put a dent in my 10mm stash. So I’m hoping that we can get to a point where it’s reasonably priced again. If it stays this high maybe I’ll have yo think about reloading.

Sig 10mm ammunition is my 2nd pick for full power 10mm ammunition. Underwood is my #1 choice if I'm buying ammunition.

My 155gr XTP is a copy of Underwood load. I use 800x like they do and it works great. I need to buy some 180gr and 200gr Underwood 10mm and pull one of each and see how much they have in them. I'm out of 800x though

 

[Aszerigan]

I use 9.5gns of Longshot under a 180gn Everglades JHP. It's a spicy meatball.

I also run buffers in all my 10mm 1911's. Reduces frame shock and they're cheap. Just my two cents.

 

[DadSmith]

I use 9.5gns of Longshot under a 180gn Everglades JHP. It's a spicy meatball.

I also run buffers in all my 10mm 1911's. Reduces frame shock and they're cheap. Just my two cents.

I put one in my 10mm 1911 after hearing they weren't a gimmick. Also got one in my 45acp 1911.

 

[armalitesheepdog]

10mm and 50AE is what got me started in reloading. With 50AE it was the cost. With 10mm it was getting true 10mm velocity without the cost.