Just a few tips on reloading for semi-auto cartridges:
Overall length and crimping are critical for proper functioning. Suggest NOT using specs from reloading manuals, because they are all maximum dimensions.
Get some good factory ammo with the same or very similar bullets to those you intend to use. Measure the OAL and the outside crimp diameter (very carefully, with the knife edge of a dial caliper). Use those numbers for your reloads.
The 9mm case is slightly tapered, not straight; so, case length could be an issue but, usually, is not in practice.
Titegroup burns hot, yes, but in light loads it is not a big deal. Here's how I suggest making "target" loads: start with the lightest suggested load in any manual you have, and load up about five rounds. Then, work your way down by two or three tenths, and load up about five rounds at each of those levels, down to about a full grain lower.
Test fire those in your gun to find out the minimum load it requires to run. Add about two tenths of a grain to that load for "insurance," and you have a light, cheap load you can shoot in your gun with the minimum of wear and tear.
Another tip:
Other things equal, lead bullets are easier to push through a barrel than jacketed bullets. So, if you use jacketed bullets, you will have to go through the process, again, to find the minimum load for your gun.
Hope this helps a bit.
By the way, for my beginner classes, I have my students shoot .357 revolvers with a whopping 1.5 grains of Titegroup behind 158 gr. SWC lead bullets!