Kel Tec PF9 melt job - you can do this!

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  • ryan3326

    Marksman
    Rating - 97.6%
    40   1   0
    Apr 20, 2011
    177
    18
    Indiana
    Hey guys/gals

    I had alot of interest in this process on another forum that I used to post on before I found INGO - so I thought I would share it with you. This partial melt job can be done by absolutely anyone so don't be afraid and best of all... you are doing it on a +/-$250 gun.

    I picked up my PF9 and it was a standard matte black with black grips. Perfectly usable - but not much to look at. I bought this gun primarily to be a pistol to grab when we are out on our southern Indiana property - I have been stood off by stray dogs out there many times. I really liked the feel of the gun in hand, but it wasn't much to look at.


    user7338_pic13505_1299768078.jpg



    I decided to try my hand at a melt job (removing all corners) - a partial melt in my case as I left most of the profile of the original slide in tact. After removing the sights, extractor, ect. from the slide I removed the bluing with Birchwood Casey's Blue Remover. Then I began to slowly knock the corners off with (first) a polishing stone on my bench grinder - this didn't work very well and was difficult to maneuver around. I ultimatly used a small fine grit sanding wheel on my Dremel hand tool. This worked great! Go slow and use long passes over the corners. After removing the metal that I wanted with the Dremel, I took some 280 grit sand paper and evened out the strokes even more, and gave an overall consistancy to the slide.

    Here are some photos of the PF9 at this point:

    ee1f9222.jpg


    30e24998.jpg



    122557b9.jpg


    e36148f7.jpg


    From here I had a buddy take it to his shop where he blasted it with aluminum oxide to even out the finish and remove the sanding marks. Aluminum oxide is commonly used and is preferred to sand blasting or bead blasting. Most machine shops can do this for you.

    Last, I sprayed a few coats of Lauer Weaponry's Dura Coat Clear over it, let it dry and re-assembled everything. I added the Kel Tec belt clip and an inexpensive laser and I am honestly 100% happy with the finished product.

    Here it is:

    355be50b.jpg


    60049407.jpg


    7a466089.jpg


    583c5386.jpg


    This gun has gone from an inexpensive pistol to ward off strays to honestly my favorite carry pistol. It is lightweight, ultra concealable and now - not bad looking.

    As I said at the beginning of this post, anyone can do this. I am a banker with no gunsmithing or metal working experience. I would like to see anyone elses successful project photos.

    Good luck!
     

    ryan3326

    Marksman
    Rating - 97.6%
    40   1   0
    Apr 20, 2011
    177
    18
    Indiana
    by the way, the front sight comes off easily with a soldering iron. Just melt the tips of the plastic pins and pull the sight off. I gave my front sight a bit of a melt job to - to go with everything else. To re-install, push the pins into the holes and use the soldering iron to melt the plastic back over to hold it on.
     

    ryan3326

    Marksman
    Rating - 97.6%
    40   1   0
    Apr 20, 2011
    177
    18
    Indiana
    Very beautiful job! :)

    Is there a difference now when you carry it like a smoother draw or re-holstering?

    I honestly did this the first week that I had it - so I don't really have anything to compare to. I would assume that it holsters/deholsters easier and it carries more comfortably because the corners are gone.
     

    jsx1043

    Master
    Rating - 100%
    50   0   0
    Apr 9, 2008
    4,993
    113
    Napghanistan
    Wow, Ryan, that looks outstanding! It looks almost like the Sig Anti-Snag treatment with the shape of the KT slide. It looks great as it is, would look pretty darn awesome with a stipple job!
     

    ryan3326

    Marksman
    Rating - 97.6%
    40   1   0
    Apr 20, 2011
    177
    18
    Indiana
    looks great......... i think i will do that to mine. about how much time involved ?

    I didn't really think about it when I was doing it but I be that I had

    -maybe 30 minutes getting it ready for the melt (disassembling, removing bluing, etc)
    -about 90 minutes with the Dremel/sandpaper
    -about and hour to Dura Coat (have to let it flash off between coats)
    -no time reassembling the PF9

    It really wasn't a big time consumer. From start to finish I had the whole thing done in 5 days, the biggest delay was getting the slide back from my buddy who blasted it for me.
     

    paperboy

    Master
    Rating - 100%
    11   0   0
    Apr 18, 2009
    1,598
    38
    Pulaski County
    Hey guys/gals

    I had alot of interest in this process on another forum that I used to post on before I found INGO - so I thought I would share it with you. This partial melt job can be done by absolutely anyone so don't be afraid and best of all... you are doing it on a +/-$250 gun.

    I picked up my PF9 and it was a standard matte black with black grips. Perfectly usable - but not much to look at. I bought this gun primarily to be a pistol to grab when we are out on our southern Indiana property - I have been stood off by stray dogs out there many times. I really liked the feel of the gun in hand, but it wasn't much to look at.


    user7338_pic13505_1299768078.jpg



    I decided to try my hand at a melt job (removing all corners) - a partial melt in my case as I left most of the profile of the original slide in tact. After removing the sights, extractor, ect. from the slide I removed the bluing with Birchwood Casey's Blue Remover. Then I began to slowly knock the corners off with (first) a polishing stone on my bench grinder - this didn't work very well and was difficult to maneuver around. I ultimatly used a small fine grit sanding wheel on my Dremel hand tool. This worked great! Go slow and use long passes over the corners. After removing the metal that I wanted with the Dremel, I took some 280 grit sand paper and evened out the strokes even more, and gave an overall consistancy to the slide.

    Here are some photos of the PF9 at this point:

    ee1f9222.jpg


    30e24998.jpg



    122557b9.jpg


    e36148f7.jpg


    From here I had a buddy take it to his shop where he blasted it with aluminum oxide to even out the finish and remove the sanding marks. Aluminum oxide is commonly used and is preferred to sand blasting or bead blasting. Most machine shops can do this for you.

    Last, I sprayed a few coats of Lauer Weaponry's Dura Coat Clear over it, let it dry and re-assembled everything. I added the Kel Tec belt clip and an inexpensive laser and I am honestly 100% happy with the finished product.

    Here it is:

    355be50b.jpg


    60049407.jpg


    7a466089.jpg


    583c5386.jpg


    This gun has gone from an inexpensive pistol to ward off strays to honestly my favorite carry pistol. It is lightweight, ultra concealable and now - not bad looking.

    As I said at the beginning of this post, anyone can do this. I am a banker with no gunsmithing or metal working experience. I would like to see anyone elses successful project photos.

    Good luck!
    Man, thats friggin' awesome....Nice job!!
     
    Rating - 100%
    139   0   0
    Sep 3, 2010
    1,439
    48
    -maybe 30 minutes getting it ready for the melt (disassembling, removing bluing, etc)
    -about 90 minutes with the Dremel/sandpaper
    -about and hour to Dura Coat (have to let it flash off between coats)
    -no time reassembling the PF9

    That's a dirty lie....PF9 reassembly makes me wish the gun was together so I could shoot it with it.
    ....the execution of this event is highly complex.

    :)

    Looks great though. Now what can you do about those corners on the beavertails area?
     
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